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Looking for specific Hose. Reservoir to Fuel Pump.

Chris Rohde

Regular Contributor
Hi All,

The other weekend task I have is to try to hunt down this hose. It is going from the "Reservoir" 3854149 to the "Fuel Pump" 3857650.

ScreenShot002.jpg

I cannot find it on any of the exploded view drawings. This is for a 1995 5.8L Ford. Although it seems like these are also on 5.7L Chevys also.

The "reservoir" tends to corrode quite a bit. You can see this in the example below. (This is not mine, but doing the same thing). Any suggestions on how to stop this or slow this down? I'd prefer to replace my hose that has gotten very soft and leaking, and do some handy work on this reservoir before plunking down $450 on a new hunk of brass.

ScreenShot006.jpg

As always, thanks for the help and suggestions!!
 
Hi, Just a quick FYI...You through me off for a minute with your description of Reservoir to Fuel Pump but in all actuality the hose shown from the online image is running between the power steering oil cooler to the fuel pump reservoir which you'd find that hose in the steering system.;):)

But even knowing that may not help out all that much as it seems depending on what stern drive model you have the hose appears to be obsolete from Volvo/OMC. I located two part numbers 3853580 and 3850416.

Both seen within the following link as item number 17, http://www.volvopentastore.com/Stee...on_id.408226142--store_id.366--view_id.784373

^ What is your full engine model number for example 5.8LFSIPNCD due to as you'll see in both parts diagrams certain engines and drives will be mentioned.

If you search the part number you believe to have online and call around, you might be able to find an old stock someplace, http://www.firstchoicemarine.com/p-90691-omc-hose-3853580.aspx

But looking further into this, my guess would be you have part number 3853580. If so then marineengine.com may have 5 in stock, http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=VOL3853580&my_part_number=Y

Hope this info works out for the best, let us know and good luck.
 
Thanks for the response boat_tech. Mine is a 5.8FSIPHUCCE. So mine does not look to be specifically included on the two pages in your link. I also started digging around last night and started looking into heater bypass hoses, that people can use to clock off their heater cores. I then got more specifically into looking at 180* hoses at the 1" Inner Diameter that I need. Because my particular model is not listed, and the people with the part numbers you found do not have images of the hose that may or may not be the one, I think I'm going to give this one on Amazon a shot.

ScreenShot002.jpg

It may be a couple inches too long, but I'll trim it as needed. Once I get it and assuming it works, I'll update this post for anyone interested in the future.

Now my only other issue is the corrosion that keeps forming at these reservoirs, and looking into a way to slow/stop that.

Thanks again!
 
Mine is a 5.8FSIPHUCCE.
If needed/interested, here's your exact engine model parts guide but the steering system linked above is the same as what will be found inside your engine model.

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Mari...on_id.769689323--store_id.366--view_id.765229

Maybe try searching online for corrosion resistant paint for aluminum/or whatever you believe the reservoir might be made of. Also maybe try figuring a way to install some sort of designed sacrificial anode. To bad there doesn't seem to be any type of sacrificial anode "springs" to lock onto the housing water port sort of protruding into the hose...< Just thinking out loud to possibly help get a conversation going for some other ideas for you too.
 
Flush the engine on a regular basis with fresh water and a couple of times a season with "salt away"
TO do this...
Insert a "T" fitting and two 1/4 turn marine ball valves and a "hose" bib fitting between the point where the raw water hose enter the boat @ the transom (on the inside) and the inlet to the raw water pump. Get a 3 to 5 ft section of garden hose and attach to the hose bib, other end in a pail 3 to 5 gal pail with a garden hose running free into it with fresh water. Do not hook a pressurized feed to the inlet of the raw water pump.

Open one valve and shut the other to run normally, reverse the open/closes to flush.
 
You are on my train of thought exactly. I have been looking at Rust Oleum's Steel Tech. It's a industrial polyurathane that can handle heat to 250 and handle water immersion.
https://www.zoro.com/rust-oleum-ste...JA7f5oRHWG5zeXKELLWrBhoCeFPw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

and I love the look of these. They come in all sizes. Primarily used to replace the drain on your radiator or your hot water heater. They come in a variety of lengths and thread sizes. Would love to find a spot in the cooling system where a plug could be pulled and replaced by one of these. They come highly recommended.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085IJSLQ/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1COIXT69Y8KR
 
Through some more research, my part number is actually 3852285. I noticed that the date on all my hoses were mid 1994. I took a look at 1994 OMC's and found this graphic. This looks a lot more like my hose.

47775_23a_0.jpg

At that time I started searching around with that part number in order to see if I could find a photo to verify, and i found this.

ScreenShot003.jpg

Sure enough, that's the one. So I went ahead and purchased this also. I'll probably return the other one to Amazon or keep it as a spare.

Regarding what I think the reservoir is made of, I was thinking brass due to this picture. It's the only photo of one I have not seen that has not been painted black.
ScreenShot004.jpg
 
Also maybe try figuring a way to install some sort of designed sacrificial anode. To bad there doesn't seem to be any type of sacrificial anode "springs" to lock onto the housing water port sort of protruding into the hose...< Just thinking out loud to possibly help get a conversation going for some other ideas for you too.

I have been looking at these. They put them in water heaters and car radiators. You can replace your drain plug and install these. There seem to be 2 draincocks on the motor. I just don't know what the thread is, and how long these could be.

The idea would be to put these in place.

ScreenShot004.jpg
ScreenShot005.jpg

and ditch these.

ScreenShot003.jpg
 
Looking more closely @ your pix... appears to be dissolved salts that have deposited and not "corrosion" per se. Easy fix, soak in white vinegar overnight. This deposit happens at points in the cooling system where small amounts of sea water remain after shutting off the engine. They evaporate (often hastened by engine heat) and the salt and other minerals in sea water remain.
 
It really can't be though. My boat has been in Arizona it's entire life, and has never seen salt water. We do have very hard water here with extremely high levels of calcium, which does put a nice white buildup on everything. I'm going to take a dremel tool to it with a sanding drum to clean it up and see how it looks before repainting it with the Steel Tech.
 
I'd still give vinegar a try, otherwise there is a product called LCR which is designed to dissolve Lime, Calcium and Rust in shower fixtures, etc. Most H/W and home stores carry it.
 
So just to update where I am on this. I pulled my fuel reservoir off yesterday. To say it's in rough shape is putting it nicely. As you will see in the photos below, there is severe oxidation of the aluminum. The unit was so plugged up, there was literally only a pin hole for water to get through. I had to take a drill with a 1/2" drill bit to bore through this into the main chamber. Once I did that, I cleaned everything up with my Dremel using a combination of a sanding stone and a wire brush. I then dipped the piece in phosphoric acid. So the piece is all cleaned up now, but as you will see there is some horrible pitting going on due to the corrosion, and what I believe is also cavatation. I would love to hone the inside of these hose connections, but the pits are just too deep in places to make it worth it. I think I have 3 options now.



1. Replace the unit. - At $430 I'd rather not. I'd prefer to get at least a couple more years out of this one.
2. Use JB weld to "resurface" as much as I can.
3. At some point, I felt it might be a great idea to press a "sleeve" into each hose connection. I like this idea best. Actually, I thought I would JB Weld, as best I could and then slide in the sleeve.

I was hoping to find a stainless steel sleeve in the right size, but I cannot. But I did find this bronze one.

View attachment 14911

I'd like to get everyone's opinion on doing this. If I can pull off a $20 fix and it lasts 2-3 years, that would be fantastic.

20170225_175721.jpg20170225_182601.jpg20170225_182610.jpg20170226_180750.jpg20170226_180847.jpg20170226_180859.jpg
 
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No need to worry about the inside water will flow allyou need to be concerened is the outside where the hose clamps if it holds water the water will flow.
 
No need to worry about the inside water will flow allyou need to be concerened is the outside where the hose clamps if it holds water the water will flow.

That's a bit of the problem though. A couple of those pits on the inside are so deep that they have almost penetrated the outside. After cleanup, I can see where one has just started to. So I need to fill those, or add the sleeves to create integrity there. On the outside, i can certainly give the hose a good surface to mount to.
 
I did choose to add those sleeves. I really didn't see any other choice, since the pitting inside was getting so deep that I was seeing signs of them going all the way through. They worked like a charm. I put a thin layer of JB Weld inside each hole, and then tapped these in. Nice and snug, and perfect. This should definitely extend the life of this reservoir. Past this photo I am also using JB to fill the pits on these flanges, and then will sand, prime with a etching primer for aluminum and then paint.

20170301_172129.jpg
 
Hi there, I am so happy to see this and having such a similiar issue accept I don't quite understand the workings of the reservoir as well as you do. My big question is, is the small nipple on the bottom suppose to have water coming out of it? My holes were also very plugged up with salt. Any assistance is so greatly appreciated. This was the forum I started a couple weeks ago with all my info http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating...gh-pressure-fuel-pump-whine.html#post10552370
 
These fuel reservoirs are a nightmare and cause many problems on our boats. Mainly lots of stalling and no hot start conditions. I would recommend pulling yours and drilling out the larger ports like I did. You can also add the sleeves like I did also if your ports are too pitted. Get that water flowing to cool that fuel. Just recondition it as best you can.

I have not done this yet, but this is my next step during the next off season--- There is a small hose on the top that takes excess fuel/vapor and dumps it back into the intake. You want to disconnect that hose, get a longer piece of hose, and run it back into your fuel tank. Hopefully your tank has an extra unused fitting. If not, you can splice it into your existing vent line. Do NOT let it vent back into your bilge!! You also will need to plug the port on your intake where that hose was connected. Doing this will prevent your motor from flooding and stalling/not starting.
 
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Also -- Do NOT order the 3852289 hose i showed above. It is the wrong hose. The Pegasus hose from Amazon was perfect though. I slightly trimmed one end and it worked perfect!!
 
So happy u responded. I have not taken mine off yet but have cleaned out most the salt deposits from the two large holes. Can u tell me what that small nipple does on the side? Mine has a hose going from that nipple up to my heat exchanger with a 1 way check valve on it. Is that nipple a vent or is water suppose to be coming through it or exiting it? I am thinking it's not cooling enough and cause pump to fail at long idle. Looking for a quick fix while fishing is hot, then will do what u say once I put her on the hard. Again thanks so much!! Been working on figuring out this reservoir for weeks
 
Reservoir to Fuel Pump.

So happy u responded. I have not taken mine off yet but have cleaned out most the salt deposits from the two large holes. Can u tell me what that small nipple does on the side? Mine has a hose going from that nipple up to my heat exchanger with a 1 way check valve on it. Is that nipple a vent or is water suppose to be coming through it or exiting it? I am thinking it's not cooling enough and cause pump to fail at long idle. Looking for a quick fix while fishing is hot, then will do what u say once I put her on the hard. Again thanks so much!! Been working on figuring out this reservoir for weeks

https://youtu.be/D0yN0ctpZjs
 
Through some more research, my part number is actually 3852285. I noticed that the date on all my hoses were mid 1994. I took a look at 1994 OMC's and found this graphic. This looks a lot more like my hose.

View attachment 14857

At that time I started searching around with that part number in order to see if I could find a photo to verify, and i found this.

View attachment 14858

Sure enough, that's the one. So I went ahead and purchased this also. I'll probably return the other one to Amazon or keep it as a spare.

Regarding what I think the reservoir is made of, I was thinking brass due to this picture. It's the only photo of one I have not seen that has not been painted black.
View attachment 14859

Chris, according to MarinePartsEurope.com, your 5.8FSIPHUSCE is an AQ series stern drive and engine.
There should be nothing OMC about this setup..... it should be all Volvo Penta.

Perhaps one of these links may help you.

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-cat-7797017.aspx


http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7797017-25-35433.aspx
 
I have the hoses and want to use my old unit. I am just trying to understand how the reservoir works and best way to flush it out. Can someone explain to me what the nipple does on the side of reservoir?
 
Yes, Ricardo, you are correct. I wish this board let you delete old posts for when we mis-step or get off track. The result would be cleaner threads for people to use as a resource. I would certainly delete that post from above.

ironbound - thanks for the video. You have 5.7 Chevy, and I have a 5.8 Ford, so those are very-very different even though we share this same reservior. Water should indeed be coming out of the smaller fitting. That whole chamber is just hollow and all it does is pass water through it. What it is feeding water to on yours, I do not know. However, just make sure it has good flow. I personally don't see the need for a 1 way check valve. If you don't have good flow, you may want to replace the hose with a single new piece that does not have the check valve and see how that works.
 
As Far as cleaning the unit and "flushing it", if you can get at it well enough, just make sure both large ports are not plugged, and make sure the small port is not plugged. There really won't be any corrosion inside the chamber itself. Mine was very clean inside, even though the two large fittings were corroded and blocked up. Just remove the hoses from all 3 ports and put a garden hose on it. Don't let the debris get into the small cooler that sits on top of it. Regarding the small cylinder like cooler that sits on top, that is easily removed as it sits on top of the reservoir. Remove that and you can look through it. Mine was indeed fairly clogged from debris passing thought the reservoir and being trapped in there. If you hold one end of it up to a light, and look though it like a periscope, you will see any plugged holes. I used a straightened coat hanger to get them unblocked. Remove any blockages and put it back on. I believe it's a cooler for the power steering.
 
Additionally, Do not tear into the fuel section of the reservoir unless you know there is a problem there. However, I do recommend buying the rebuild kit any time you see one come up, and just hang on to it until you need it. These are discontinued and are becoming INCREDIBLY rare. There is one on eBay right now. I have one just sitting in a box for when I will eventually need it. I just consider it insurance. Chances are if I wait until I actually need one, it won't be around when I need it.

I suggest grabbing this and just holding on to it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-PENTA...ash=item440814b957:g:t5gAAOSwMTpZdQ6i&vxp=mtr
 
Hey Chris, that is probably my problem, I am not getting any water out of that smaller fitting on the reservoir when the motor is running. The smaller fitting has a hose running up to the top of my heat exchanger, it must get recycled in there when it has water flow. Even with the hose off, I get absolutely nothing out of that small fitting, I removed the fitting and still nothing. Just not sure why I am not getting any flow out of it and would explain why my hi press pump makes a high pitched sound after 30 minutes. I cleaned both the entrances to the two larger inlets but may have not done it well enough. There must be a passage still clogged up. Since it's still attatched to my boat I did not want to force anything in the inltets but now that I know it should be completely hollow in there I will take another look and maybe try and get some saltaway in there. I still don't know what you meant when you said you had to drill yours out? If you ever make it out this way, I owe you a beer and a fishing trip. 2 pics below

https://ibb.co/dBrFxF

https://ibb.co/com4ra hose with the 3 clamps and check valve on it is the one coming from the small fitting from resivoir to heat exchanger
 
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I pulled mine and drilled out the 2 larger fittings and inserted those sleeves. Mine was calcium buildup. If you are in salt, that may be a whole other story. You may want to pull the top off the reservoir. If you do, you really need that rebuild kit from eBay.
 
Problem solved today!!! I did not realize that their was such a small hole inside the inlet itself where the raw water comes in. Their is just a small hole a little less than a 1/4 inch. What I did not know was the rest is part of the casting. Used a wire, unplugged the hole and now the reservoir is filling with water again and cooling my pump. No more vaporizing fuel and loud whine is gone on pump!!

Pic below shows how small the actual inlet is in the passage and the rest is the casting. If that little tiny hole is clogged than water can't come in. Thanks again for chatting with me Chris$_122 (1).jpg
 
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