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can't get water deflectors in - 25hp

markanthony

New member
Hi folks, I got the 3 water deflectors (2 long, 1 short) for a 1989 25hp. they are solid rubber as opposed to the original tubes. I tried wd40, then tried a heat gun to warm up the case and get the deflectors soft. i can only get them about half way in. banging on them. it feels like i'm going to crack the case open. how do you get them in? should I have gotten the hollow hoses instead? Thanks, Mark.
 
(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficiently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.


Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the rubber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.


Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending above the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

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thanks, I did see this here before but I have these solid rubber plugs that wont go in, not hoses. all the wd40 in the world wont get that rubber compressed enough to insert these deflectors. the marineegine oem part is now solid rubber.
 
thanks, I did see this here before but I have these solid rubber plugs that wont go in, not hoses. all the wd40 in the world wont get that rubber compressed enough to insert these deflectors. the marineegine oem part is now solid rubber.

Solid rubber plugs?? I don't know where you got solid rubber plugs from BUT good luck on trying to compress them. If the deflectors you took out were solid... that was somebody's goof! None of OMC's (Bombardier's) water deflectors are solid plugs. Do your self a favor... go to a automotive or reliable hardware store and pick up some fuel line hose as per my reply to prevent your hair from turning gray. :)
 
that's what i did, 3/16id fuel hose, 3/8 od. i got the rubber plugs soft enough in boiling water but still didnt them all the way in. the power head is still in the case so i have no ability to work them in for the lower two. i dont know why marineenging is selling these solid plugs. 34 bucks for 3 pieces of rubber i cant use.
 
Yeah, the heat will make the plugs soft... BUT... heat also causes the rubber to expand (get bigger). Think about it.

The plugs that are not all the way in.... yank them out of there as the engine will overheat and re-read what I had to say in reply/post #2, then follow my advice... don't deviate from the instructions.

Contact the "Marine Engine" company and explain your problem and what I had to say about the "solid" rubber plugs. They won't want you to be a one time customer I'm sure.
 
just to follow up. the bottom right diverter wouldnt even fit 3/8 fuel line, had to use 3/8 vinyl hose. the diverter gets crushed down so flat to block the rear of the water travel, probably to force the water through the head. the original looks like it was molded and the walls are thinner. i was able to insert the plastic pin into the vinyl so hopefully the hose will stay positioned. i think it was the top diverter that was loose and flapping around allowing water to travel across. i also replaced the two exhaust manifold gaskets. my symptoms were overheating, very hot exhaust housing. we'll see if it worked.
 
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