290DP Double bearing box Screw

Kilwinning said:

Well an update, I got the bearing box apart and with the torx screw I should have the crush sleeve type,
Not with the steel bearing box.

but it's the shim type,
Correct!

the bearings didn't feel as smooth as I thought they should so I pressed the shaft out.
Things I noticed, the bearings themselves are a little scored up, the races have marks on them and the inner race does not seem to have been installed up to the shoulder on the bearing box
That would be the outer race!

I can get a feeler gauge in between the shoulder and race ( never checked for how big the gap is) my questions are,

that race should be installed up to the shoulder?
Yes!
Had it not been, pressure from usage would have seated it by now.
However, the set-up would have changed resulting in gear damage.

if I install new bearings and races and install them up to the shoulder ( the outer one has no gap) other than the bearing preload will I have to redo the gear pattern or will that not change if reusing the shims and washer,
Baring that it was set-up correctly the last time that someone was in there........ if you replace the 30207 and 31307 bearings only, and adjust the rolling torque value, the only further adjustment may be the back-lash.

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kimcrwbr1 said:

I used a local truck repair shop to have them press the large bearing off of the pinion gear.
I have never been able to press the 31307 bearing from the "drive" gear without sacrificing it.
The roller cage must be cut and removed, then the roller cage race can be removed via a fixture and hydraulic press!

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Kilwinning said:

Thanks for the prompt reply, I'll get new bearings and races and install them up to shoulders of the bearing box ,sounds like I maybe getting into uncharted territory with gear pattern and backlash.
Don't be intimidated....... we can walk you through this.

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kimcrwbr1 said:

Gear pattern is dependent on pinion depth and there are two types of shimming methods depending on the type of bearing box. Either the shims are under the front bearing pressed on the pinion gear or the shims are between the box and the housing were the four bolts hold it in the housing.
Kim, all due respect...... and I may not be following you.

In the image below, it shows the integrated all aluminum clamping collar/bearing box found on all "A" and later transmissions.
This BB will not interchange with the separate clamping collar/steel bearing box style transmission.
The "main drive" gear (pinion gear if Automotive) rolling torque value is typically pre-tension/crush sleeve controlled..
However, it can be made to work with the shims just inside of the seal surface washer...... but that's another story!

Rolling Torque value will be measured in Inch Pounds or Newton Meters via center rotational force.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-PENT-...ash=item1ebba48df2:g:BcQAAOSwAYtWJnY~&vxp=mtr

This type takes the shims with four holes
That type of shim is what we call a "gasket" style shim. These are used to control the main drive gear depth and/or back-lash ONLY.



This next image is the separate clamping collar/steel bearing box.
The "main drive" gear rolling torque value is shim controlled. The shim(s) will be just inside of the seal surface washer facing AFT.
They are NOT behind a bearing!

Rolling Torque value will be measured in String Pull and Scale via the OD of the bearing box.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/875425-BEAR...ash=item51f3782ce5:g:h7sAAMXQWzNSoJ4X&vxp=mtr
This type the inner bearing on the pinion is shimmed prior to pressing the bearing on.

Again, all due respect....... there is no shim that involves the bearing being pressed on!
The shim(s) are captive just inside of the seal surface washer.
As the male yoke is tensioned against the seal surface washer, the washer (and it's control shims) come to rest against the FWD portion of the Main Drive Gear "shaft".
This is what controls and holds the tension that in turn creates the rolling torque resistance.

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Kilwinning said:

thanks again for the help much appreciated.
I have the bearing box with the shims under the front bearing,
Please explain and perhaps post photos!
I have over-hauled 100+ of these AQ series transmissions over the years and have never seen one of the rolling torque control shims underneath a bearing race or roller cage race.

With the steel BB, the main drive gear "depth" is controlled via circular shims that will be both in front of and behind the Steel Bearing Box "collar".
Shims AFT of the collar control the gear depth.
Shims FWD of the collar control and close the gap between the main case and the aluminum collar.


I'm just heading to my shop to have another look at that bearing box with mirror to see if that race was installed correctly it doesn't look like it's seated against the shoulder ( unless that's normal) [
Once you drive the old races from the BB, you will be able to see the seating shoulders.

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kimcrwbr1 said:

That was my mistake looking at the diagrams it can be deceiving with volvo diagrams.
It is the shims for the sealing washer on pinion I was looking at....... sorry.

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Kim, no appology necessary............. I just didn't want Kilwinning to become confused.

Kilwinning said:

Well thanks very much for that info.
You are welcome!

There was one shim between the bearing box collar and trans housing
Yes, that controls the depth of the main drive gear into the two driven gears.

and two under the seal surface washer
OK..... those control the pre-load against the two back-to-back tapered rolling bearings thus creating the rolling torque value.


( don't have the steel bearing box out of the aluminum housing yet) do I need to take that out or should I wait and see.
In order to replace that O-ring, yes....... carefully remove it and save the shims.

I had the same prob with the PDS bearings determining which was fore and aft樂 Got that done as per your directions. Hoping to get the motor back in this weekend.

I had ordered just the inner bearing, thinking that I could just replace that one as the outer bearing and race didn't seem as scored as the inner one, I will order the outer bearing tomorrow. ( Hopefully get it for the weekend)
Of the two main drive gear bearings, the AFT-most bearing (the 31307) takes the greater load and will typically show more signs of wear!


I have not got the outer bearing off yet but when I do will see what's going on with that shoulder, to my eye all the teeth on the gear look good no damage
(I can get the feeler gauge between the outer race and the shoulder on that one but not the inner race )
Check the depth as to how far the feeler gauge will go in between this race and the shoulder.
I'm willing to bet that the feeler gauge is not going the full depth....... and that the race IS making full shoulder contact!

NOTE: you may find a small thin spacer (looks similar to a shim) just behind the 31307 race of which may explain the partial depth feeler gauge reading.

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RicardoMarine said:

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Kilwinning said:

Thanks Rick

That is exactly what is happening to to the feeler gauge, goes in about half way.
I figured that is what may have happened.

I did look in there with a little mirror but since I'm replacing that bearing would see when I pulled it apart.
Yes.

I'm ordering that bearing today and hopefully make some progress on my project this weekend.
Keep in mind that the old 31307 roller cage must be clipped and removed so that the inner race is accessible.
Then, prior to using a bearing spitter and press, you may need to weld two small beads around the inner race so that the splitter does not slip off.
(been there/done that)
Heat produced from the welding will shink the metal, so be sure to press it out immediately after welding the beads to it.

When going back on with the new bearings, lightly polish the shaft and coat each surface with automotive Never-Zeez.

Im out the door at 4:00am so I'm not that motivated when I get home, sounds like your at her pretty early too
Yep...... I am up very early each day!

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Kilwinning said:

Well an update, got my new bearings, put the bearing box together torqued the screw to 55 lbs
while turning the bearing box and checked the rolling torque. It started rolling around 10.5 lbs of force and then rolled around 7.5 lbs, did this a few times and it was pretty much the same. The book says 8.11 lbs.
OK...... as noted earlier, you have the steel bearing box.
As mentioned...... the rolling torque value is shim controlled, not pre-tension sleeve controlled. (shims will be inside of the seal surface washer)
The string is to be wrapped around the OD of the BB while the universal shaft is being held firmly in the bench vice.
The scale pulls on the string, and will give you a measurement of resistance in the form of "weight".

I make it a practive to never suggest values (torque specs, timing specs, clearances, etc) ..... there is just too much room for misinterruptation, misunderstanding, etc. It's always best if the owner verifies the specs for this!!!!!!
NO Seloc or Clymers manuals...... Use ONLY OEM Volvo Penta.

I will say that 8.11 lbs of string pull resistance sounds very high.



Rick or Kim could you tell me if the rolling torque is calculated using the starting force or when it's actually rollling.
I have always been more concerned about the value once actually rolling.
Make sure that the bearings are oiled!

If it is too high I'm going to order the shims, I was going to get a 5, and 10 mm one, any thoughts on the thicknesses?
The thinner shims are of more value because you can create more combinations when mixing them with the existing shims.

Reducing the shim pack = increased bearing resistance.
Increasing the shim pack = decreased bearing resistance.


Im going to replace the steel washer as the seal surface looks good where the seal rides but the other half of washer is rusty. I did polish the seal surface and all other surfaces were good.
You can remove (polish away) up to .005" with no issues.
Just make sure that you DO NOT leave any micro-scopic spiral swirl marks! (spiral swirl marks may cause the seal lip to pull or push oil past it)


i borrowed a dial indicator to check the back lash buts that's on hold for now. Depending on what I do it will take another week to get parts.

Thanks Kilwinning.

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kimcrwbr1 said:

There may be a slight difference in the sealing washer if your gonna install a new one. It may change rolling torque value just by replacing the washer.
Yes....... none of these are machined exactly the same. What this means is that if you are working on a Pre-A transmission with the steel bearing box, when this seal surface washer part is replaced, the rolling torque value must be checked and/or adjusted.

I hate to keep harping but I believe your wrong of all the upper gearbox rolling torque values I can find 3.3 ft lbs max for the 290a with new bearings and 2.2 for used bearings.
FYI...... if Kilwinning's transmission has the steel bearing box, it will NOT be 290A or any "A" transmission!


at 8lbs your well over twice spec and the bearing will just cook themselves rather quickly. Are you sure your not looking at neutons?
Yes, and good question!

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kimcrwbr1 said:

I thought you were using the crush sleeve? If so you need to get another sleeve and redo the rolling torque. I see 10-15 N or 2.2-3.3 ft lbs rolling torque. Put loctite on the bolt threads and tighten the bolt until you get the proper rolling torque. The bearing box shims is how you adjust the pinion heigth.

I think that the shims that Kim is talking about are the circular shims on either side of the steel bearing box "collar".
These shims provide 2 areas of control.

1...... on the AFT side of the collar, these control the depth of the main "drive" gear into the corresponding "driven" gears. This adjustment must be made after the rolling torque value is set!

2...... on the FWD side of the collar, these control the squeeze of the clamping collar.
We want just enough shim value to allow the collar to fully clamp the steel bearing box, yet allow the clamping collar to fully mate up to the main gear case.
You can over-shim, then lightly clamp the collar down, then take a feeler gauge reading, then either add/reduce the shim value so that when fully clamped, the clamping collar becomes fully mated to the main gear case.
The goal is to get the clamping collar to contact the main gear case, while also squeezing the BB.
A .003" squeeze is ideal!

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Kilwinning said:

No worries Kim
I want to get this right, on page 36 of the Volvo repair manual it states that the torque values are 3.69 to 8.11lbs or 5 to 11 NM, this is for the bearing box with the shims for setting the torque value. ( which is the one I have) On page page 35 it shows the pre stressing torque as 3.69 to 7.38lbs, I'm getting confused, the run in bearing torque is 1.84 to 3.69, it seems on each page there is a different torque value.
on page 52 for the crush sleeve type they are the values you stated.
Its beginning to look like I should be going between 3.69 to 7.38lbs.? Any thoughts on that.
My values were already higher than the max,
im going to order that washer and a couple of shims and hopefully that will do it, the old one is not in great shape. The bearing box Is still sitting on my bench so I'm open to suggestions
This manual was the Volvo penta work shop manual so I figured it was right but now I'm wondering.
Thanks for taking the time answer my questions.

Which manual are you looking at? Make sure that you are looking at info for the Pre-A transmissions.
The OD of the steel bearing box is smaller than that of the OD of the A bearing box (integral aluminum BB/clamping collar), therefor the string pull has a different torque advantage.

Also note that the rolling torque value for NEW -vs- Run-In (used) bearings is quite different!
For example:

the "A" bearing box for NEW bearings is 2.2 to 3.3 lbs string pull.
the "A" bearing box for Run-In bearings is only 1.6 to 2.2 lbs string pull.

But again....... you do NOT have the "A" transmission!!!!!

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Kilwinning said:

Well thanks again Ricarrdo for taking the time to help out.
I am using the online version of the Volvo penta shop manual, I was going to use the old steel washer but because I had to do the rolling torque decided to use a new steel washer, the old one was not in good shape.
those torque values I quoted were for a steel bearing box and were included in the assembly instructions on page 35/36, these are obviously wrong ,
Please post a hyperlink to this on-line version. I would like to look at it!

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