Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1998 Honda BF40 Wiring Harness

E

eneusiis

Regular Contributor
Backstory: I purchased a tiller, tilt & trim 1998 BF40 from a guy who had it removed from his old boat. The dealership removed the factory wiring harness, which is the full blown harness with connections for a tac, tilt/trim and volt gauge. I cannot figure it our for the life of me, because the aholes disconnected it from the actual engine as well.

So, my question is, they also sell the push button start that mounts behind the shifter, which is what my old honda had and I would prefer. Can I just buy the push button start and install that versus using the big harness, or will that be an issues not having all those other connections to the tac and gauges to the CPU on the engine?
 
Maybe you could use the pushbutton switch.

The wiring harness on the engine may not be set up for it. If it is trim and tilt, it may have been intended only for remote operation. The newer ones can be used either way.

Post your complete frame serial number (4 letters and 7 numbers) and, if you can, post a picture of the cabling and accessories (switches, etc that you have). Try to at least get pictures of the connectors on the ends of cable.

We may be able to work you through it.

Mike
 
I will take pictures tonight. In the mean time.....

Here is the link to the wiring harness that it I have. Standard factory with male & female push connections that come stock on the engine.

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/honda/H-32540-ZV5-Y00.html

Wiring Harness.jpg


Here is the link to the push button switch, I would rather just have, considering I don't have a volt meter, tilt/trim gauge and speedo, which is the main portion of the wires on the existing harness above.

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/honda/H-35150-ZV3-003.html

Push Starter.JPG


I have the tilt & trim wired and functional, it works both on the engine button on the side and the newly wired floor pedal (after market). I guess my larger question is if I don't connect a speedo, volt gauge and tilt/trim gauge will the engine work start and run or will the CPU override it all and not start.
 
The motor will run just fine without the gauges.

You can probably wire in the start button. It might not plug right in, depending on the motor wiring harness. That is why I asked for the serial number.

If your motor does not have a stop button/safety landyard on the motor, you would have to add one of those also....to stop the motor.

Mike
 
I am at work now, but will add the serial number tonight as well. Really appreciate the feedback.

It does already have the kill switch on the handle bar with the stop push button.
 
Serial Number: BAYL-2000057

Here is the full harness, ignition switch side at the bottom of the picture and motor cpu connections on the top

FULL HARNESS.jpg

Closer look at ignition side

Ignition and gauge end.jpgIgnition end continued number 2.jpgIgnition end continued number 3.jpgIgnition end continued.jpgignition.jpg
 
Here are a few shots of the harness that connects to the motor:
motor end connection to CPU.jpgmotor end number 2.jpg

Lastly here are a few shots of the motor and cpu and what I believe is the end of the harness that connects to the CPU. I got down two wires the Red and black and black and white and then on the motor cpu you will see two Grey and Pink wires. My schematic doesn't show those wires, so I can't make heads to tails.

CPU.jpgmotor end 3.jpgmotor.jpg
 
Well, I found the push button starter for like $25 so I took the gamble. Only had three connections and were color to color matching connections. Engine turns over, so I guess it is case solved. Now I have a wiring harness and ignition switch in a parts box in case I need it in the future.

Still don't know what to use the Grey and Pink wires for. .....
 
You have a stumper. I am glad you worked out the start button.

I have been looking back through our old books to see if I can find the wiring diagram for that key switch and cable and have not found it yet. That must have only been used a short time.

The pink has

Grey is usually the color used by the charge coil and feeds to a tachometer. It appears that the grey leads from the charge coil are connected at the engine, so things look ok there.

The pink has a pink or red and a black sleeve on it. So it, essentially, is another color....perhaps black/red....which is the stop lead. Since you said the motor already had a stop/safety switch on it, you should be good there also.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike, going to be 50 here on Saturday so I am going to run it in the driveway with a tank or muffs. I will let you know if I have any problems.
 
If you run on muffs, don't forget to tape up the water intake that is above the prop on the anti ventilation plate.

Mike
 
UPDATE:

Dropped it in a tank and started great. Found the fuel pump was leaking due to 3 loose screws, tightened down and all was good. New fuel pump on the way regardless.

Idled great, but will be replacing the float sets in each carb as I have had that get me on my old 25 hp Honda.

Outside of that they only thing I noticed was the oil light indicator wasn't displaying. I was used to my old BF25 to always be green when running and if crap went south it would turn red. It kind of looked like it was extremely dim to the point I wasn't 100% sure it was lighting up.

Oil looked fine, motor idled for 20 min in driveway. Does anyone know if the light indicator should be shining green on a BF40? Everything looks connected on the inside.
 
I think maybe this wire is my culprit for the indicator lamp. Any guesses? I know the blue connector is connected, but remember a grey wire not being connected in the CPU. I assume it goes to my wiring harness, but since I am not using that am I correct on that or should this connect to another grey wire inside?

Honda Dude?
Capture.JPG


Thinking the male in this picture should be connected to the female also circled.

Capture2.JPG
 
Well, I took the gamble and connected and sure as heck, it was the right pairing and now my oil light works. Just completed last night the following, prepped for paint this weekend and then mounting on the boat.

- New Plugs
- New float set valve needles
- New Oil
- New Lower Unit Oil
- New lower unit washers
- New shift linkage boot
- New water pump & impeller
- New fuel pump
- New push button starter
- New lower seals
- New Prop

Now I can hit the water this spring with confidence. Thanks for all the input fellas.

Thanks,

Eric
 
Ooooookaaaay.........Gotchya covered!

A very Merry UN-birthday to you!

Now get out there and have some FUN!
.....:×)
 
Status Update:

Took it out for a spin and runs absolutely beautiful! Engine doesn't skip a beat, pisses nice out of the water line and mother of god is the power tilt and trim a beautiful upgrade on my hunting boat.
 
See??? Having a good running Honda IS sort of like having an unscheduled birthday present befall you!
Sounds like we have ourselves a HAPPY CAPPY!
It even cheered ME up!
 
I've owned pretty much ALL of 'em. I liked my old Johnson. I still have my Merc. Even the old Chrysler ran ok.....once you could get it fired.....whew!

Mariner? Still got one. Evinrude....haven't had the pleasure. Nissan,Tohatsu? Sorta weak in my opinion and, well, Yamaha seems to make good EVERYTHING.

But since I started working on Honda a few years ago, I became a BIG fan. They are NOT perfect. Each one probably has at least one quirk or flaw built in. But, pound for pound I think they are the best engineered and toughest built outboards on the market (excluding the 5 horse. They break too easy)

If someone lined 'em all up and said "pick one, it's free"......I would go home with the Honda.
 
JGMO I agree, I have had Suzuki, Mercury and Honda. I really like Yamaha's but not as much as my Honda's they run a close second. I will never drop money on a mercury again.

I had a BF5 and absolutely loved it, minus the lack of options for props and the single cylinder, but it ran like a swiss watch.
 
Back
Top