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1988 AQAD 41A oil gauge

jmac5058

Member
Have got the wires done to the point of turning over the motor (first time running in the boat since 1989 ) It fired right up but the oil gauge pinned to the max just turning the key on and stayed like that after starting . Tracing down the problem I find Volvo Penta has an oil sensor and an oil sender , the oil sender ( the one just behing alternator ) is missing and a brass nipple is in the block . There are wires coming out of the harness just cut off , 2 black and one blue or green . Do these go to the sender and do I get a new sender and try to wire myself or do I need to test resistance , voltage or ohms ?. I fell Im going over my head here and dont want to fry anything in the harness . I need to be pointed in the right direction I hope thats not the dealership .
 
You should be able to google up the wiring diagram which will have the wire colours on it. At a guess you need a 2 terminal sender (you can check the parts online also) and the 2 blacks should both be on one terminal and the 'blue/green' on the other terminal. Doesn't matter which terminals normally. To test you can just touch the blue/green wire to a clean part of the block and see if the gauge flickers (with the ignition turned on). The sensor is for your low oil pressure alarm, and the sender is for your gauge.
 
Thanks aliboy , do you think all two post senders made by Volvo Penta are the same . I see a new one on E Bay that looks the same as the one on the VP parts site for 1/3 the price ? There is no part# on the E Bay sender but looks just like the ones on the VP parts site . Also having trouble finding a wiring diagram on line .
 
I did a quick search for you. Looks like 2 terminal sender. One blue wire and the black wires looks right. Black wires are part of the earth system and blue wire goes back to gauge. Looks like part number from this link (https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7745630-30-19553B.aspx) is 866833 or 843231. I don't know about compatibility with other Volvo senders sorry.
This ebay link has the part number 843231 which seems to be what you are after?
 
I put the two black wires together and ran a a wire from blue to ground and the gauge no longer went to full pinned , it just made a small jump and stayed on zero . It looks like I just need to order a sender hook it up and see what happens, it will take a week or so to get it and I will post results here . Again thanks for the help and the links .
 
From what I am seeing you have a pressure switch and pressure senser with two wires black and light blue is for the senser. Black and white/blue is for the pressure switch. With the light blue wire disconnected you say the guage is pegged then short the light blue wire to the black wire and the guage goes to zero. The guage is working properly. Get the proper senser and it should work just fine. The pressure switch is for the warning light it should go out when oil pressure is above 10psi.
 
Got the pressure senser installed and the gauge is working fine along with the low oil alarm that stops just after start up . With this now working there is nothing left to do the motor and drive but use it . This leads me to the breakin of the engine , it has a new liner kit , includes piston , rings and liners redone heads with new valves and guides . Rebuilt injector pump and injectors and new after cooler with the same old turbo that tested well . I need to know what is the proper procedure to break in the engine , someone told me I need to seat the rings but had no idea how you do that . Things like the RPMs the load the duration of runs and changing RPMs often or stay a constant speed . I dont seem to be able to find much info about breakin , Thanks for the help
 
Just run it at 3/4 throttle and below for the first 8 hours and then do a oil change. I dont imagine it is any different than any other rebuild others here will know better.
 
Opinions will vary, Varying Rpms is a plus,no wot for first eight hours,after that just short bursts, See what your dealer recommends or your original owners manual says for reference, Others will chime in.
 
Have been breaking in for 10 hours and need to start thinking of my first oil change at about 20 hours . My question is do I put synthetic in ever or stick with conventinal in this older motor ? Or is Rotella 15-40w T 3 the way to go ? It has ran great and only smoked when first started and cleared up in a minute .I have no speedo or GPS right now but when I cranked it up to 3100 rpms the boat jumped right up on plane and was moving nicely .
 
That's your call jmac5058, there will be various replies, Pros + Cons From a price cost, I myself would use conventional
 
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