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Torque spec - TIGHT vs DRIVE TIGHT?

NorthShore

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I'm looking at a service manual for a Merc outboard. Many of the torque specs say either "TIGHT" or "DRIVE TIGHT" instead of a reading in lb-in / lb-ft / Nm. What's meant by TIGHT and DRIVE TIGHT? Thanks.
 
I'm looking at a service manual for a Merc outboard. Many of the torque specs say either "TIGHT" or "DRIVE TIGHT" instead of a reading in lb-in / lb-ft / Nm. What's meant by TIGHT and DRIVE TIGHT? Thanks.

What year is this manual? 1960-70?

You would tighten a bolt by hand "Tight"
Tightening a bolt by hand and then hitting the wrench with a hammer (usually 12oz) to move the bolt is "Drive tight"
 
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not quite good-n-tite is like a german virgin that must be drive tight:) On older engines especially with aluminum threads snug and nice and snug is another way to say it, if you break a bolt or strip the threads thats too tight. All metal threads use torque values.
 
It looks like an official Mercury manual. On the back cover it says "Copyright: 2000, Mercury Marine"
 

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What they are talking about is screws not bolts hand tight is with a screwdriver and yes drive tight is hand tight and with a hand impact driver give them a extra whack. You can also just use a vice grip on the screwdriver. tighten the screw hand tight and then put a vice grip on the shank of the screwdriver and add a little torque.
 
Other places that it's mentioned are "Recoil Starter" and "Shift Components". Always in reference to a screw/stud/bolt. All other torque specs are in the standard lb-in / Nm. Thanks for the clarification kimcrwbr1. Just the info I was looking for. It wasn't terminology that I'd ever seen before. Thanks everyone for weighing in. :)
 
..."good-n-tite" is the ability of an experienced mechanic to properly tighten a bolt. The exclusive use of a torque wrench can mean loose bolts if the threads are not properly lubricated and clean. An experienced mechanic knows to count flats (a hex bolt has 6 flats) and adds a flat of two after 'tight' as needed.

Jeff
 
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