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oil drain plug frozen

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Georgiaguy

New member
I am restoring a BW outrage – It has a 2000 Evinrude E150FPXSIF on it and and I think it will be a good motor in spite of a lot of negative press. I am presently addressing lower unit.
The lower drain plug is frozen and I have not been able to loosen it. I have tried about everything -- it is a slotted flat head screw so buggering it up needs to be avoided. It is stainless steel
Thing I have tried:
Using a larger screw drive with head that fit the slot more fully and tightly
Spraying with PB blaster and letting it sit then repeating it – to drips off so it probably needs to pool and soak in – it is on the boat -- I might have pull the lower unit and lay the unit on its side
I heated it with a propane torch that didn’t work – I hesitated to use acetylene because it is seated in aluminum that melts with strong heat
I tried an impact screw driver --- the kind you hit with a hammer – still didn’t budge
Anybody got a good idea on how to loosen this plug??:confused:
 
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You have to have the right bit for your impact driver. Then don't be afraid to give it some good wacks with a big hammer. Instead of propane try mapp gas and heat around the screw. Not the screw.
 
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The threads are sealed , so there is not much point in using PB blaster on it.-------Get that impact screwdriver on it or run to your favourite shop.
 
I do have right bit -- it fit all the way across and snug --- l have given it a few good wacks -- what think I will do take the whole lower unit off so I can turn it on its side -- the water pump probable needs changing anyway --- I don't have a MAPP but I do have some brazing tips for my acetylene torch --- It will probably this weekend before I get water pump kit and pull the lower unit -- wife does expect me to help with the turkey besides I do like to fry em -- Thanks for help and encouragement
 
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I just use a large screwdriver and a cresent wrench push real hard on the screwdriver and put the cresent wrench next to the plug and give it a twist. If it is corroded on the inside its because it has been sitting with water in the bottom of the gearcase for some time. You should change the plug fill washers at least every other oil change.
 
If your hand impact driver won't loosen it, you have a real problem greater than the screw. The screw threads are immersed in oil. No way can they corrode and seize. Unless they are immersed in water instead of oil. And if they are in water, the gearcase is full of water instead of oil. And that ​is not good.
 
looked it up when two dissimilar metals make contact they need a electrolyte (water) for the reaction to occur. the electrical current produced by the electrolite causes a reaction one metal is the anode and the other is the cathode similar to a battery that produces electricity. The aluminum basically dissolves faster and sticks to the stainless that is also breaking down from the electrical reaction. A zync anode uses the same reaction to draw the reaction to the weakest link thats why it is called a sacrificial anode. Think of your boat motor a ground rod.
 
After you get this plug out. Take a good look at it. Check to see if the plug has a magnet and if it is still where it is supposed to be. NEVER HEAT A DRAIN PLUG!!!!! It will pop the magnet right out and if you don't get the magnet out of the lower it will all be over shortly.
 
Georgiaguy, any luck yet,last resort solution,drilling it out,using easyout,try and preserve original threads,flush out filings
 
johnnygjr said:
Georgiaguy, any luck yet,last resort solution,drilling it out,using easyout,try and preserve original threads,flush out filings
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:( Just came inside from pulling the lower unit --- mostly bad news --- I was able to get a better whack with the hand impact driver ---- that loosened it and I was able to remove it (not a lot of filings and mostly slug with a few metal filings --- clear water came out about a cup and half --- oil floats and it has been sitting up for long time. Well after I said “oh sh*t” I pulled my service manual out and read about a gear case rebuild --- I am really unsure I can accomplish this --- the manual states they are certain measurements that need to be exact – I have no idea what those measurement are or of what --- in any case I have already bought the boat and motor – fortunately at a price I can sell only the boat for and recover my expense --- The motor I have already spent about 1K on to get it to this stage. Fitch motors have a bad rep –
Where do I go from here --- I am still considering --- I do have friend that may be of assistance with a rebuild --- should I even attempt it??
What do you guys suggest?? About what does a lower unit rebuild cost from a dealer --- Is this something I can do? – incurring only the cost of parts and my time? I have already had a computer rebuild done at about 850 – have bought a water pump and lower unit reseal kit – new plugs and temp sensor – total cost of about 1200 --- I am unsure it will even start.
I could flush out the lower unit put in some transmission sealer – let it set maybe put a abit of air pressure on it – refill and try to crank it – I would at least find out if it would crank and run in a tank. Would not cost money just time – my benefit would be knowledge I gain from the repair work. Or maybe get it running.
Should I try to part it out and continue to attempt bring it back to life???
 
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Pull the gearbox and see if you can get it to run? If the compression is good and it runs fairly good you may get lucky and find a parts motor with a good lower unit. The sooner you disassemble the gearbox the better it may still be salvageable. You wont know until you open it up and coat the parts good with oil for now any oil is good after you clean everything good with gasoline.
 
Engine can be run without lower unit attached,just secure a hose to water tube,she's going to be loud!! Do this before spending $$$
 
Don't spend any $$ on that engine as parts are scare and there is NO factory support. Perform a compression test with high pressure fuel pump disconnected and killswitch pulled. Have some one with EV diagnostic software check for codes/faults. If any problems found junk/sell it.
 
faztbullet said:
Don't spend any $$ on that engine as parts are scare and there is NO factory support. Perform a compression test with high pressure fuel pump disconnected and killswitch pulled. Have some one with EV diagnostic software check for codes/faults. If any problems found junk/sell it.
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Thanks for your response --- I do have compression test kit --- and will try to get that info --- I will have to find (research how to) disconnect the high pressure fuel pump --- not sure what you mean by "pulling the kill switch" -- Do you mean -- removing kill clamp from the starter switch to prevent any electricity going to the spark plugs?

My first work in the engine was to have EMM diagnostic test done -- EMM was fried -- last fault was a high temp
I had the EMM repaired by DFI --- I had hoped to a attempt a start up after I reworked the water pump and changed the gear case oil. Water in the gear case changed my course.
 
Too late now ---Most folks would do a complete evaluation on a motor before spending a single $$ on it.--------------This motor is not high up on the hit parade.-------------Was at a shop once where service adviser said " we did not sell many of those and we do not work on them other than some routine maintenance "
 
racerone said:
Too late now ---Most folks would do a complete evaluation on a motor before spending a single $$ on it.--------------This motor is not high up on the hit parade.-------------Was at a shop once where service adviser said " we did not sell many of those and we do not work on them other than some routine maintenance "
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Your right I could have/should have --- maybe I will have to chalk it up to a “lesson learned”
I did the best eval I could on my own. I did buy the boat, trailer and motor at a price I think I can resell – even with no motor at all. I still think I can do that. A boat survey done locally would cost $300 to $500. The motor would not crank when I bought it. It looked almost pristine --- I expected the EMM to be fried and that would require a complete reprograming with a water pump rebuild. It did not work out that way.
I have gotten a lot knowledge and experience by getting my hands dirty. I have worked a lot of hours on the boat – Tried to save a buck.
FITCH engines do have a bad reputation. Some have had bad experiences, others not so bad and some parts maybe more difficult to find than others and repair can be frustrating – It is why I tried DIY. In any case a gear case with water in it is most likely a failed seal. Not a FITCH engine problem. Whether or not I can pull it apart and repair it --- or even hire a boat mechanic do it is still an unanswered question.
 
You don't need to take the gearcase apart to see if impeller is damaged and if it was what fried EMM. If it is damaged then you have to evaluate if the overheat damaged anything internally. Gearcase is a easy fix heat damage is not. Hook it to a hose and see if it will run. Pull the fuel pump fuse or unplug the fuel pump when doing a compression test as the injector will fire and squirt fuel into cylinder and give a false reading. Ground the plug wires and pull safety tether also...
 
faztbullet said:
You don't need to take the gearcase apart to see if impeller is damaged and if it was what fried EMM.
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Were the EMM's on these motors water cooled? I only know a few details on the OMC FICHT, but plugged water passages could be one explanation for the EMM failure. I've done a lot of work on PWC's and know OMC licensed the FICHT technology to Kawasaki and Polaris for use in their skis. When they worked they were fantastic, but one flaw was the coolant passages for the EMM were very small and were susceptible to getting plugged. When that happened it was only a matter of time before components in the EMM failed due to heat damage.

KJ
 
Where in Georgia are you? I might be coming up there from FL, and I could take a look at it for you.
I would bring tools to pull the bearing carrier and we could see if you have any real damage in there, whether it be rust, or gear chipping.

I have the EVDiags, and we could run it with the computer on it to take a look-see.

PM me if interested.
 
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kevinj said:
Were the EMM's on these motors water cooled? I only know a few details on the OMC FICHT, but plugged water passages could be one explanation for the EMM failure. I've done a lot of work on PWC's and know OMC licensed the FICHT technology to Kawasaki and Polaris for use in their skis. When they worked they were fantastic, but one flaw was the coolant passages for the EMM were very small and were susceptible to getting plugged. When that happened it was only a matter of time before components in the EMM failed due to heat damage.

KJ
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Thanks KJ Good point --- I did check this possibility -- EMM is water cooled with opening that is about 3/8 to 1/4 inch -- it is rather small -- the opening runs straight through ( I don't know if has any side passages like a radiator but main passage was clear -- I have had the EMM reprogramed by DIF -- they state it was taken apart, inspected components replaced as needed and repotted in a protective filler (Tar like semi solid gel).
 
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faztbullet said:
You don't need to take the gearcase apart to see if impeller is damaged and if it was what fried EMM. If it is damaged then you have to evaluate if the overheat damaged anything internally. Gearcase is a easy fix heat damage is not. Hook it to a hose and see if it will run. Pull the fuel pump fuse or unplug the fuel pump when doing a compression test as the injector will fir


Tried to crank this AM -- sounds as if it is fires on one maybe.sometimes two cylinders. made sure gas flow was good and oil flow was good ---- it goes through power up & warning lights clear -- and none stay on. I am considering spraying some starter fluid in each port and see what happens???

Thanks for your assistance
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Does the high pressure pump come on??? Should hear it run when key is turned on. DO NOT USE STARTER FLUID or ANY FUEL ADDED THRU INTAKE AS CAN RESULT IN UNCONTROLLED RUNAWAY!!! How did you check gas flow??? Now you need the diagnostic software to see if EMM is working,injectors working as EMM could have damaged them,CPS is synching with flywheel,TPS is working....can get to be a money pit fast.
 
There has been some strong wind and rain in north Georgia -- My shop had some damage to its tin roof -- boat got some water on/in it but all appears to be ok ------ I have been able to verify that the fuel pump comes on (I can hear it hum) and produces strong fuel squirt out the schrader valve -- verified spark with a tester -- all six cylinders getting spark --- the EMM has been updated and reprogrammed by DFI --- when I hit starter it turns over for about 3-5 sec. fires (sounds like one cylinder -- sometimes possibly two fire and starter kicks off -- I am unsure what my next step should --- maybe get a small tank with higher octane gas (currently has 87 oct non ETOH gas) - I can get some 93 oct non ETOH from a supplier nearby ------- I am thinking that this engine is firing on one cylinder -- getting gas and spark to all six cylinders -- Has new and indexed Champion XC12PEPB plugs --- what should I check out next???
 
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