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Testing VRO on 2002 Johnson 115

D

d.glennon

New member
Hi guys, few weeks back I posted (http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?434704-2002-Johnson-115-Surge-Bog-Smoke-issues ) about some troubles I’m having with my 2 stroke 115 Johnson. I am looking to do all I can before spending $450 on a new VRO as a last resort. I am looking to run the motor off an external tank tomorrow, I am looking for tips on how to rig up the external tank? Are there any other suggestions to troubleshooting?

Thanks

Link to older more detailed posts, any replies here or there are appreciated.
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?434704-2002-Johnson-115-Surge-Bog-Smoke-issues
 
d.glennon said:
Hi guys, few weeks back I posted (http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?434704-2002-Johnson-115-Surge-Bog-Smoke-issues ) about some troubles I’m having with my 2 stroke 115 Johnson. I am looking to do all I can before spending $450 on a new VRO as a last resort. I am looking to run the motor off an external tank tomorrow, I am looking for tips on how to rig up the external tank? Are there any other suggestions to troubleshooting?

Thanks

Link to older more detailed posts, any replies here or there are appreciated.
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?434704-2002-Johnson-115-Surge-Bog-Smoke-issues
Click to expand...
First thing you do is remove the pulse limiter line and pump the fuel ball, Does fuel come out of the pulse limiter line? If yes, end of story replace the VRO.

I would disconnect the fuel line from the engine and hook up a portable tank with a 50:1 pre-mix and run the engine until all raw fuel is purged before doing any testing.

Copied this from another page for you.

Note: If you find that the VRO pump is bad after testing with this method, replace the pump and do not attempt to kit the pump. We have found that the kits fail more than not, and the cost of such a failure is certainly not worth trying to save a few bucks.

Ok, let's test the pump....

Using the diagram for reference, install and carefully secure a 10" length of 1/4" clear vinyl hose to oil inlet on pump. A few inches from the loose end, measure carefully, and mark hose every 1/2" for 3 inches.
vro.jpg
Fill the hose with outboard oil and run the engine to eliminate air from the base of the hose. Shut off engine, and add or eliminate oil until level is even with the highest mark.
Start the engine, and monitor the pump cycles by using a fuel pressure gauge or by putting light finger pressure on the outlet hose.

  • At 800 RPM, the oil level in the hose should drop 1" in approx. 5 pulses.
  • At full throttle, the oil level should drop 1" in approx. 3 pulses.
If results vary from above, the pump could very well be bad, but check the pulse limiter fitting before replacing the pump. Disconnect pulse fitting hose and crank motor. Is there a good strong pulse of air through fitting? If so, fitting is ok. If not, first check that compression on bottom cylinder (which operates pulse valve) is up to snuff. If compression is low, then the bottom cylinder needs attention to correct. If compression is ok, replace fitting and repeat previous test to assure oil throughput is ok. If results still vary, replace pump.
 
Dont take any chances premix the main tank and top it off and fill the oil reservoir. put a mark on the reservor and run the tank close to empty. Measure the oil it takes up to the line and top off the tank. Convert the fuel into ounces and divide the ounces of oil into ounces of fuel. Better to run 24:1 for your test if the VRO is working the more fuel you use the more accurate the reading.
 
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