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late 60s 1250 125hp broken distributor rotor shaft?

Probably a dry bearing for the rotor I imagine it beat the crap out of the cap as well. There are some parts available on ebay for reasonable as far as old merc parts go they can get real spendy especially if you can find new. Hopefully the housing is not chewed up.
 
Well I got the motor for free. So I have no money into this motor as it is. I'm just wanting to know if it's fixable. I guess I won't know unless I take it apart.
 
The inline six is not the ideal engine to rebuild especially for the novice. If the compression is above 110 and even on all six cylinders it should run just fine. Check the gearoil and pull the gearbox and check that it shifts properly and do a pressure test. The cost of parts may change your mind so dont put any money into it until you know it is serviceable.
 
The first thing I did was a compression test. 110-115 in all cylinders. The lower unit holds pressure and seems the shift fine. I had the motor running before i started anything and noticed the spark plug wires needed to be done. Had some new wire kicking around from another motor I did. Made up the cables and put new spark plugs. Then I tried to Start it and it didn't want to stay running. Probably from the corroded wires from the harness. So I decided to tear down to the carbs for cleaning and that's when I noticed the driveshaft for the distributor rotor. Is it worth continuing and trying to repair the distributor assembly?
 
IF your distributor looks like this (below) I can sell you two of them, very cheap--and they are both okay.

Jeff
 

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Yeah that's the same harness as mine 414-2770. The stator wires look good so I'm going to leave that for now. The main thing is this distributor. That one in the pic doesn't look the same. I'm posting pics of mine right now
 
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Heat the housing and it should fall right out just smack the housing down on a 2x4. Pull the rotor and replace that bearing at the same time. Soak the housing in power steering fluid before you heat it up. The rotor might take some coaxing as well. You can probably work the bearing race out with a punch from the other side as well. The cap dont look chewed up too bad. Power steering fluid works wonders especially with dissimilar metals and aluminum.
 
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