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BF130 gear case oil seal replacement and disassemble.

S

speedboatsteve

Member
Hello,

After discovering water in my BF130AX gear case I decided to remove the lower unit and replace all the oil seals for peace of mind while its off.

I have removed the water pump and found the bearing below this has rust on it so I need the main shaft out so I can replace this bearing too however I cannot get the bearing carrier to pull out which is required to access the pinion gear nut which will allow removal of the main shaft.

After some research online and the discovery on a Honda repair manual it looks like I need to remove the shift rod first, then remove the bearing carrier so I can access the pinion nut, basically disassemble the whole gearbox so I figure I might as well replace all the seals for peace of mind while doing this however the plastic shift rod holder doesn't seem to want to move either. (I have also removed the small bolt which secures this along with the water pump)

Has anybody done this before? will I need to destroy the plastic shift rod holder if it wont come out easily in order to remove the shift rod and start to disassemble?
 
Thanks Bob.

I had another go at it and it wouldn't move so it looks like it will need destroying.

I did get a price from my local marina and you are right, it is not that expensive for the holder but they also listed a load of other stuff related to the shift rod and that made it an expensive job if it all had to be replaced for the sake of getting to something else?

I was starting to get a little worried.
 
I always include the price of one in an estimate...since it is normally 50/50.

I you take a couple of one inch screws and screw them into the plastic midway between the middle and the edge on opposite sides on one another. Let about 1/4 inch stick out and take two long needle nose pliers...one under each screw head, then pry it out. You might need to put a small piece of wood under each as a fulcrum. It should come right out.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike,

I had thought of using screws somehow and what you advise sounds good and with minimal risk of damage to the case.

Earlier today I was talking to a mechanic friend about the problem I was having and he said how bad is the rust on the bearing so I showed him a picture.

He said it didn't look too bad and on zooming in it only looked like surface rust on the none moving part and that he had seen worse working fine. He said if it wasn't making a noise when in use which it wasn't and if I couldn't feel any grinding when I rotate the shaft it would probably be ok.

Don't know what your thoughts are? I will keep trying but am struggling to upload the photo.
 
It is hard to tell for sure.

You have to decide why it rusted. Then, why wouldn't the bearings also have some rust/pitting on them.

If everything rolls smooth, you may have escaped the bullet.

How good are you at "rolling the dice"?

Mike
 
I had a good look over the weekend and it all feels smooth to me so I think I am going to edge my bets and leave it alone. Its only in the water for the summer and will pull it out every winter so will inspect again next year but I'm sure it will be ok.

One thing I have learned from this is I was going to change all the oil seals just because I had the lower unit off but a very simple pleasure test with soapy water on the seals will tell you what needs changing and can save a lot of unnecessary work.

I rigged a simple pleasure tester up with a manual tyre pump that had a PSI gauge attached. This attached to my Quicksilver gear oil filler pipe worked perfectly.

Thanks everyone.
 
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