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'71 LM 318 225 Superbee with a Volvo AQ 200 or what?

Friz Freleng

Friz Freleng

Member
Trying to get a positive ID on my outdrive. Unfortunately the tag near the helmet is unreadable. I found an ID chart with dozens of Volvo outdrive drawings. The AQ200, AQ250 and AQ270 outdrives look exactly the same to my eye. Only difference I saw was gear ratios. How can I ID my outdrive to buy the right service manual? I am assuming that these are the original outdrive and engine but after 45 years I cannot say for sure. Also the AQ200 and AQ250 drawings have a note saying "electro mechanical tilt". I read somewhere that there is not a trim function and tilt is used for lifting the outdrive away from the road on the trailer. Further the outdrive cannot/should not be operated in the tilt up position. By the way, this project was not running when I bought it last fall.
 
Ive only seen chryslers mated to VP270 outdrives in the past. In fact I owned one about ten years ago. great set up. If you post a pic im sure one of us can ID it for you.

Will
 
So here are 5 images of my sterndrive. I included the image of the prop after reading that earlier sterndrive props were removed by bending the tabs away from the cone before unscrewing it. Mine has tabs. Did your 270 have trim and tilt or just tilt?
 

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Im thinking 250 or 270 drive it looks like a one bolt shoulder screw for the helmet kinna hard to tell by the pic. Looks like the prop has seen a few rocks as well.
 
Friz Freleng said:
Trying to get a positive ID on my outdrive. Unfortunately the tag near the helmet is unreadable.
If this drive was not tagged "Chrysler", it may have been tagged "Eaton".
In either event, it is a Volvo Penta AQ series drive.

I found an ID chart with dozens of Volvo outdrive drawings. The AQ200, AQ250 and AQ270 outdrives look exactly the same to my eye.
The AQXXX refers to the Engine model, and will typically be followed by the drive model number.
For example: the AQ200B (5.0L GM SBC w/ 2 brl carburetor) used the 280 shield and 280 drive.
This would have been shown as: AQ200B/280.

See more Volvo Penta info here http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-schematics-MarineGasolineEngines.aspx


Only difference I saw was gear ratios.
Most all AQ series stern drives were available in different gear reductions. For example: 2.15:1, 1.89:1 and 1.61:1.

How can I ID my outdrive to buy the right service manual? I am assuming that these are the original outdrive and engine but after 45 years I cannot say for sure. Also the AQ200
If you are refering to the 200 drive, I can assure you that this is NOT a 200 drive.

and AQ250 drawings have a note saying "electro mechanical tilt". I read somewhere that there is not a trim function and tilt is used for lifting the outdrive away from the road on the trailer.
That is correct! This is a "Lift Out" device ONLY!

Further the outdrive cannot/should not be operated in the tilt up position.
It can be reversed at low idle RPM only..... but use caution.




So here are 5 images of my sterndrive. I included the image of the prop after reading that earlier sterndrive props were removed by bending the tabs away from the cone before unscrewing it. Mine has tabs. Did your 270 have trim and tilt or just tilt?
The SS locking tab washer was used for quite a few models, and only for the short hub propellers.
Click to expand...


Kim is on the right track. It's either a 250 drive or a mix of 250/270 drive components.

Regardless, it will have the collar steering fork with the smaller vertical shaft.

If 250, the main drive gear has small diameter gear shaft and main drive gear seal.
If 250, the lower unit gears will be bevel cut, and you will be able to hear them.

If early 270, the main drive gear will have the larger diameter gear shaft and main drive gear seal.
If 270, the lower unit gears will be Hypoid style.

I put this image together to point out a few things.
 

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You can check the gear ratio by pulling the upper gearbox. put a mark on the verticle shaft and spin the prop one revolution while watching the verticle shaft. How old is the PDS bearing and crosses. With the added HP you want a good primary drive shaft bearing and crosses if you dont know the condition of the PDS bearing now would be the time to check the gear ratio as well. Be careful of shims if you pull the upper gearbox and get new seals to put it together. Replace the bellows as well if it is getting hard or cracked. The water fitting under the bellows is also a common wear item that needs to be replaced as well.
 
Sorry got you mixed up with another thread but if you dont know the history of the drive it all still should be considered except checking gear ratio.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
How old is the PDS bearing and crosses. With the added HP you want a good primary drive shaft bearing and crosses if you dont know the condition of the PDS bearing now would be the time to check the gear ratio as well. Be careful of shims if you pull the upper gearbox and get new seals to put it together. Replace the bellows as well if it is getting hard or cracked. The water fitting under the bellows is also a common wear item that needs to be replaced as well.
Click to expand...

Yes...... please take Kim's advice!


kimcrwbr1 said:
You can check the gear ratio by pulling the upper gearbox. put a mark on the verticle shaft and spin the prop one revolution while watching the verticle shaft.
Click to expand...


Kim, the reduction or designated "ratio" is a result of the total reduction from crankshaft to prop shaft. In other words...... the transmission reduction + the lower gear unit reduction.

In order to check this, the transmission should be in tact with the rest of the drive.
The sliding sleeve must be locked up into the gear cup..... and not released until the test is complete.
(if we release pressure, the sleeve/cup will un-lock making the test incomplete)

So, that said........ with a 2.15:1 drive, the Universal Drive shaft will be rotated 2.15 Xs to 1 prop shaft revolution!
Likewise with the 1.89:1 and the 1.61:1.



.
 
Doesn't seem to be any play around the helmet, up/down, side to side or back/forth. Before I open this thing up I think maybe I should have a shop or service manual? I found a 280 shop manual posted on the internet (free) but not a 250 or 270. Anyone know of one out there? You know,looking at this thing it looks pretty bad cosmetically. Maybe I should pull the unit and sand blast/paint it. I don't want to just start unbolting things so I think a shop manual would be a good idea. I have no experience with sterndrives.
 
Very wise decision get a manual and ask lots of question. Boatinfo library has some free manuals but a hard copy is the best. A posative ID on the engine and drive is allways my first goal as well as general maintenance items. That prop will beat the unit to death, you can see what some steel wool will do. Be sure a wrap the propshaft with a rag to keep crap out of the seal you can sand and paint it like it is.
 
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