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I've got an engine that's running hot...

Dan in Alaska

New member
Hi, folks! I'm a new guy, here, referred over from another forum. I'm hoping you can help me.

I have twin 2007 Yamaha F225s, and one of them is running hot. I have engine data displayed on my Raymarine A68. Until recently, both engines ran approximately the same temp and fuel burn numbers. I hit a wrist-sized stick and caught both lower units. There was no physical damage done that I can see – no prop damage or external lower unit damage – not even scuffed paint. It was after the stick event, though, that I noticed that one engine now runs about 40-50 degrees hotter than the other one.


The Raymarine displayed 230 degrees on the hot engine, while the other one still ran in the low 180’s. The Yamaha tach/monitor gauges never alarmed or put the engine into limp mode. When I back off the throttles and let the engine idle, it cools down in a couple of minutes.

I took off the protective water intake screens on the lower unit, to inspect – no debris.

I replaced the water pump – no change, still ran hot.

I replaced both thermostats – no change.

I swapped the temperature sensors between the motors, figuring if the sensor was bad, the high temp numbers would follow the sensor. They didn’t – no change.

I flush the motors regularly, anyway, but I went ahead and flushed them with Salt Away – no change.

After a few more trips, checking to see if any of my repairs fixed the problem, I noticed the “hot” engine was not running a little rougher. At idle, the engine runs with much more vibration and noise than the other engine. I also noticed that the “hot” engine is now burning about 2-gals more per hour than the other engine at cruising speeds (4000-4300rpm). Whatever the problem is, it seems to be getting worse.

Time for professional help! I took the boat to a Yamaha shop, and they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. They tested the Yamaha gauge, and it does alarm as it should, so the mechanic wasn’t fully convinced that the engine was actually running hot. I asked them to do a compression check – it passed. They also did a leak-down test – it passed. The mechanic said the only thing telling me that the engine was hot, was an aftermarket display, and he wasn’t interested in chasing the problem further.

I took it to another Yamaha mechanic. He checked the poppet valve, and said it was working correctly. He checked the spark plugs, and bumped up the idle a little bit. He said he really didn’t find anything wrong, but after adjusting the idle the engine ran smoother.

The mechanics can’t seem to reproduce the problem in the shop, so I ran the boat again yesterday and took some video to take to the mechanic tomorrow. The one engine continues to run hot; it was up to 210 degrees in less than 5 minutes. After it gets hot, it idles rough and has a noticeable knocking sound. It sounds like it’s missing. The engine was also very slow to turn over and re-start.

I don’t think this is a cooling system issue. The motor pees just fine, and the discharge water is not scalding hot.

Any ideas?
 
This is interesting given what you have described and gone through already.

Oil level is within the dip stick range? In the MIDDLE of the dipstick - not too low or at the top of the range right? Top of the range can be too high on many Yamahas.

Did you replace just the water pump impeller or the entire pump assembly? - Sometimes the housing and plate the impeller spins within and on can get scored by sand, tiny pebbles etc. that make their way through the intake screens. When you replaced the impeller are you CERTAIN when you twisted it and seated it in the housing ALL vains of the impeller were twisted and seated in the correct direction?

Perhaps you have a small blockage in the cooling system further up in the engine? Try pulling the thermostat and placing a garden hose into that port with some rags stuffed around and run the hose for a while... maybe you can back-flush some sediment that may have been forced up and clogged a part of the cooling system.

Were your temp readings taken on the Raymarine A68 before and after the engine started acting up? These 3rd party systems can have problems with firmware reading the signals being sent by the engine.

Lastly, you can purchase a cheap IR temp reader, run the engines and shoot the temps of areas of each engine to see if one truly is running hotter.
 
Thank you for your help and suggestions!

Oil level is within the dip stick range? In the MIDDLE of the dipstick - not too low or at the top of the range right? Top of the range can be too high on many Yamahas. ​
I noticed the high temps right after a regular oil change, so I'm confident that there are 6 qts in there. I did go and recheck the bottles, to make sure it was 4-stoke oil. After I saw the high temps, I had a moment of panic that I might have grabbed 2-stoke oil off the shelf by mistake. Nope, it was Yamalube 10W30.

I haven't checked the oil after all this running around, but the mechanics have and didn't say anything other than it was dirty already. I ordered a couple of oil analysis kits from Blackstone Labs. I've never had an oil analysis done before, but for $28 an engine, I figured it might be a good way to get more information about what's going on with these engines. I plan to get oil from both engines analyzed, so I'll have some numbers to compare.



Did you replace just the water pump impeller or the entire pump assembly? - Sometimes the housing and plate the impeller spins within and on can get scored by sand, tiny pebbles etc. that make their way through the intake screens. When you replaced the impeller are you CERTAIN when you twisted it and seated it in the housing ALL vains of the impeller were twisted and seated in the correct direction?​
I bought the Yamaha water pump kits, that come with everything except the big plastic housing (that still looked to be in good shape) that covers stainless parts. I changed the plate, key, impeller, stainless housing, gasket, bolts, and o-rings. I broke the silly plastic split ring-thing, getting it apart, so I replaced it and the little stainless cap, as well.

I did the water pumps 3 years ago, and I've done them on previous engines as well. I don't do it for a living, but I'm pretty sure I installed the parts correctly. Water peed out the indicator as it should.



Perhaps you have a small blockage in the cooling system further up in the engine? Try pulling the thermostat and placing a garden hose into that port with some rags stuffed around and run the hose for a while... maybe you can back-flush some sediment that may have been forced up and clogged a part of the cooling system.​
This has been suggested, but I haven't done it yet. I was even told to use some CLR tub & tile cleaner when I flush the engine. I guess that stuff does a good job of flushing out scale and build up.

I've been dragging my feet to black flush the engine, mainly because it sounds like a PIA, but also because the sister engine has over 1800 hours on it with no issues. This one only has 700 hrs on it, and I flush them both the same. Perhaps that faulty thinking on my part, but back flushing the engines is still on my list of things to do.



Were your temp readings taken on the Raymarine A68 before and after the engine started acting up? These 3rd party systems can have problems with firmware reading the signals being sent by the engine.
I installed the Raymarine two seasons ago, and the numbers ran pretty consistent between the engines, until I noticed the high temps this summer. I updated the firmware when I first got the A68 unit, and I haven't changed anything since.



Lastly, you can purchase a cheap IR temp reader, run the engines and shoot the temps of areas of each engine to see if one truly is running hotter.
I borrowed an IR temp reader from one of my wife's co-workers. I didn't have the time to run the boat properly, so I settled for running it on a hose with muffs. I only ran the engine for a few minutes before the Yamaha temp alarm went off. The A68 was only reading around 130 degrees, when the overheat alarms went off, so I didn't really get as good of data as I'd hoped.

The only hot spot I saw was on the starboard camshaft pulley. The mounting bolt (shaft?) was 50-degrees hotter than anything else. This surprised me, because I expected a hot spot to be closer to the temp sensor (near the the port side thermostat).

I would have liked to run the boat and compare temp readings from both engines, but time didn't allow for that. Unfortunately, I didn't have access to the IR temp gauge when I made my last run, either.
 
The oil analysis came back. There is a lot of metal in the oil, namely aluminum, iron, copper, lead, tin, and molybdenum. I'm guessing bearings.


Am I wrong in thinking that it's probably a camshaft bearing issue, due to the location of the temperature sensor (on the head)? I'm not getting any oil alarms, so is it wishful thinking that the crankshaft bearings are okay?
 
I don't know the units, but here are the test result numbers and average values given to me on the report. The average, or expected values, are in parenthesis.

Aluminum 170 (5)
Iron 210 (14)
Copper 412 (4)
Lead 467 (2)
Tin 46 (1)
Molybdenum 220 (146)
Calcium 2173 (1788)
Silicon 21 (11)
 
Have you pulled plugs lately,to see if one is steam cleaned, Just because it passed compression test does't mean there's no water intrusion.
 
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