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Evinrude 1985 4hp E4BRHCOB no start

G

greyhorse

New member
History,

Carburetor rebuild kit installed and external tank “is” feeding fuel to the carburetor

Replace coils, points, condensers, and plugs - have a good spark

Fuel pump rebuild kit installed “correctly”!

New reed valve assembly installed

Replaced “all” crankcase gaskets and crankshaft seals

Re-ringed pistons and honed cylinders – compression is 105, 110 turning over with a drill motor and can pull a vacuum on the case now where I was unable to before.

Engine parts diagram shows two metering rods – these where not replaced

The kicker is there is “NO” felt suction through the carburetor – therefore no air/fuel being drawn into the crankcase.

Tried the little gas in the spark holes trick.



[FONT=&quot]Many thanks and any help would be appreciated[/FONT]
 
Always go to the last thing you did before the problem presented, in this case a full overhaul, but it sounds like and air leak.
 
Set the points using a timing light. On the outer edge of the points plate is two marks. Connect the timing light to any battery and point the light at those two marks. The single marks on the flywheel has to be inbetween the two marks. One mark on the flywheel for each plug wire. You will be amazed how much better it idles once you get the points set properly. It is time consuming but well worth the effort.
 
Kind of those above to respond
I have a vacuum test instrument and the case will hold now where it could not before the overhaul
Pistons are installed with the dome facing the plugs

And when I get to run I will use a timing light to set points

This motor belongs to a friend and has not been run in over 15 years
Many thanks everyone
 
greyhorse said:
1985 4hp Evinrude
(1) - I have a vacuum test instrument and the case will hold now where it could not before the overhaul.
(2) - Pistons are installed with the dome facing the plugs.
(3) - And when I get to run I will use a timing light to set points.
(4) - This motor belongs to a friend and has not been run in over 15 years.
Click to expand...

NOTE: Spark plugs should be Champion J6C plugs, gaped at .030.

1 - If you have crankcase vacuum, you would also certainly have a vacuum at the carburetor venturi.

2 - I don't remember exactly how the spark plugs are situated... The slope of the piston should face the exhaust ports.

3 - In order for the engine to run, the points must be set as follows... no need to follow up with your timing light.

4 - Take your friend out on the track for a good run. :cool: (Couldn't resist!)

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP embossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.
**********
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
**********

Now, if the engine still won't run after making sure that the above are as they should be... and the engine has compression and spark that will (with both spark plugs removed) jump a 1/4" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame, a real SNAP!, then I suspect that you have overlooked something within the carburetor... perhaps the small high speed jet located in the extreme bottom of the brass high speed nozzle is fouled somewhat. Fuel must flow through that jet before it can flow through any other passageway.
 
I appreciate the help guys, especially Joe’s extensive reply.

Problem solved. I kept beating myself up (there is no reason for this thing not to run) there’s always a reason. Changed out the coils – still no run. Changed out the condensers – wall-ah. Just because you put new parts in doesn’t always mean there good to go.

Again thanks for all the help
I appreciate the help guys, especially Joe’s extensive reply.

Problem solved. I kept beating myself up (there is no reason for this thing not to run) there’s always a reason. Changed out the coils – still no run. Changed out the condensers – wall-ah. Just because you put new parts in doesn’t always mean there good to go.

Again thank for all the help
 
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