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Honda B100 ( not BF100 )

RE: Serial numbers...

My service manual (available at amazon.com- $40 + shipping and taxes) lists the serial number breaks as follows:

1000004 thru 1199999 are the early models with breaker point ignition.

1200001 & up use the CDI ignition system.

Not sure why Honda had trouble with your serial number. It is 7 digits as they all are and falls within the early model range. They still service many of the replacement parts although many are now out of production. For example, the ignition points, ignition "condenser" and the "matching" ignition coil are all listed as obsolete.
 
jgmo said:
RE: Serial numbers...

My service manual (available at amazon.com- $40 + shipping and taxes) lists the serial number breaks as follows:

1000004 thru 1199999 are the early models with breaker point ignition.

1200001 & up use the CDI ignition system.

Not sure why Honda had trouble with your serial number. It is 7 digits as they all are and falls within the early model range. They still service many of the replacement parts although many are now out of production. For example, the ignition points, ignition "condenser" and the "matching" ignition coil are all listed as obsolete.
Click to expand...

Hello Mr xxxxxx,

I'm afraid that we do not have a pdf copy or printed copy of the owners manual for a B100 due to the age of this model.

Sincere apologies that we were unable to help with your request but thank you for contacting Honda (UK)


Kind Regards,

Joe xxxxxx
Customer Relations
Customer & Aftersales
Honda (UK)
 
I may be wrong (frequently am) but I would wager that the manual they would sell you, if they had one, would look exactly like the one I own. I just can't believe that there is a great difference.

Do you have a Craigslist city in your area? I see used manuals for sale here all the time. However, I live in Southern California, near the ocean, so that opens up many possibilities for me.
 
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jgmo said:
I may be wrong (frequently am) but I would wager that the manual they would sell you, if they had one, would look exactly like the one I own. I just can't believe that there is a great difference.

Do you have a Craigslist city in your area? I see used manuals for sale here all the time. However, I live in Southern California, near the ocean, so that opens up many possibilities for me.
Click to expand...

I think you are right , I will just have to take a chance and order some parts.

What do you make of the two holes in may impeller cover part of the gasket .

The impeller cover is now shown as obsolete and the gasket has only one long cut out , whereas mine has two smaller ones beneath the impeller cover ( not the housing )

Don't think we have craigslist city , I live close to Balchik , north of Varna100_1688.jpg
 
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You're very welcome. Most of us here just want to try and help. We all know we will need some guidance at some point. Everybody but hondadude that is. He's the GURU.

I see what you mean about the cover and gaskets. I never ran across the fact that the impeller holder was obsolete. Is your's damaged?

One thing I've found is that many of the parts for the 8 horse motors will work on the 7.5 and 10 horse models. Below is a link to a BF8AK LA. You can see that the two hole cover and gaskets are available but the holder is still listed as obsolete.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/0/BF8AK LA/VERTICAL SHAFT/parts.html
 
racerone,
I believe you're correct. If you look at the way these older outboard water pickups are positioned at the rear of the case and then enters a passage under that extended "tail" on the pump cover, that's all it could be. When the later versions went to having the intake ports on either side of the case, they dropped the extended cover, gaskets and the holder in question.

If I were faced with a damaged or lost holder piece, I think that I would just substitute a shaped and drilled stainless plate to back up the gaskets and use two shorter bolts to hold it all in place.
 
Hi

I ended up buying a complete gearbox off e-bay , it looks pretty good and gets around the fact that there was damage on the gear linkage seal and the prop seal , also now have a good pinion
 
Hi , after a while , with spring here I have attached the gearbox to the outboard and started the engine.

The engine started pretty quick

Water spits out of the two holes , but the majority of water appears to exit below the water line.

I ran the engine for 1/23 hour , after which it seemed ok , the area directly under the engine cover , just above the mid shaft was quite warm , just enough not to want to touch for too long

There seems to be a good flow of warm water from just close to the prop
 
Your exhaust runs thru there,purchase a digital infrared thermo gun to check temps. on head, If you can keep your hand on head for a 6 second count when she is warmed up without scorching fingers your ok, also if you can keep your hand in the telltale stream indefinitely she's running good. Are you running the engine on earmuffs,in a tank? On the water?
 
johnnygjr said:
Your exhaust runs thru there,purchase a digital infrared thermo gun to check temps. on head, If you can keep your hand on head for a 6 second count when she is warmed up without scorching fingers your ok, also if you can keep your hand in the telltale stream indefinitely she's running good. Are you running the engine on earmuffs,in a tank? On the water?
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Running in a tank , large barrel at the moment with hose refreshing water , by the head do you mean the bit below the engine cover
 
By process of elimination....The only motor with a serial number beginning with B100 and no letter is a 1980. The actual model number is BF100A....as opposed to BF100B, C, D etc.

If it is a short shaft, then the full model number is BF100A SA. Likewise, if it is a long shaft, then the full model number is BF100A LA.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/0/parts.html

Both of those models are listed in the link above.

Hope that helps.

Mike
 
Johnny , didn't seem to be getting too hot there , one thing I did notice was a few dribbles of water coming from metal pipe going to water outlet in mid section just above , in the compartment above the pee holes - just beneath spark plugs , seems to be plenty of water coming out of the main outlet but maybe a rusted pipe there
 
I tried to start on separate cylinders today as the idle seemed to stall a couple of times , can start on top cylinder but cannot start on bottom , are there any common problems for this , realise it could be one of many

Parts are always 2 weeks away for me so reluctant to strip down areas i don't need to

plug seems to spark
 
Do you have spark on both cylinders? Have you tried swapping plugs top to bottom to see if problem moves?
Other than that you may need to perform a compression check to compare the cylinders to one another.
You could also pull valve cover and check valve adjustment.
Just a couple of ideas that require no parts being shipped.
Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
Do you have spark on both cylinders? Have you tried swapping plugs top to bottom to see if problem moves?
Other than that you may need to perform a compression check to compare the cylinders to one another.
You could also pull valve cover and check valve adjustment.
Just a couple of ideas that require no parts being shipped.
Good luck.
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I have tried taking cap off bottom plug when running and engine slows up , when running just on top cylinder .

Iif I start engine and take cap off top plug the engine ticks for a bit then stalls , on high revs I can keep going lot longer

Have tried swapping plugs but am getting compression tester tomorrow

Thanks for feedback
 
There should be directions with the tool for performing the compression test properly but in case you've never done one before:
Activate kill switch
Drain carb and disconect fuel tank
Remove both plugs
Install tester in either cylinder
Open throttle all the way
Pull over the engine until gauge needle stops rising
Record maximum pressure attained
Repeat for other cylinder

These engines will start and run with compression of 120psi and even lower.
But, a reading of 150 and above with less than 10% difference between the two cylinders is "desirable".
 
Could not find a tester with the same thread over here .

Have another problem I think , it is now warmer weather and I noticed that after about 10 minutes running in the barrel the water flow appeared to stop , and the head started getting hotter , if I switch off and start again after 30 seconds , the water flow is there again . The water in the barrel is deep and being kept cool by a hose putting more water in all the time.

It seems like the flow just stops and does not start again , is there a sensor that could be doing this?


I reached a head heat of 2 seconds with finger and switched off
 
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Checked impeller and tubes and looked ok

Prior to taking thermostat housing off , I checked the tube that leads down from bypass , this had just been the odd drip , and managed to clear this

Started motor and had a const5ant stream of water from this tube , from the start , which got quite hot , it also seemed I had less water spitting from my tell tale holes in the mid shaft

Took the thermostat housing off and it was clogged and the thermostat looked like it had a piece missing by the thermostat rubber , as I could see right through , so would always have been open?

Not sure then why I would overheat?

I now need gaskets and thermostat , but am concerned something else is preventing the flow at times
 
Tried putting back in without thermostat and used some gasket sealant

Water still came out of water bypass tube in a constant stream until getting very hot , it seems that since I unblocked the bypass tube , I am getting less water spitting from the two holes in the extension shaft
 
If thermostat housing was clogged with debris the head + block are also clogged up,need to pull head to clean and check gasket for damage. Bad compression #s could possibly indicate a bad head gasket, Keep us posted
 
I think it is time to give up - gasket costs alone and thermostat plus head gasket take me into spending more than the engine is worth and I still have one cylinder not working properly so going to buy a [h=1]Yamaha F9.9JMHL I like having the gear lever on the tiller handle and the twist grip throttle [/h]I may break the other one up and sell for parts as they seem to be getting obsolete and the ones that are not are expensive
 
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