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Driveshaft stuck in Lower Unit ? - Evinrude 6hp 6602B 1965

F

FishyBC

Contributing Member
So I replaced the powerhead on this motor, did the impeller, fired it up and it runs great. I then discovered goo in the tank and the new leg oil has water in it. I rigged up a pressure tester that works great but discovered that it would not hold any pressure. I pulled the lower unit again (I wish I could figure out how to do that without removing the powerhead) and now I cannot get the driveshaft out of the lower unit.
The driveshaft seal needs to be replaced.

Is it stuck in there or why would it not come out ?
 
Is it the original lower unit or a newer replacement ?-----There might be a wee clip in there or a key or burr on the shaft that needs to come off.------------Take lower skeg off and remove pinion to check that out.
 
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A bit afraid to take it down further but that might be my only choice. It looks to be the original.
The motor is in such nice shape for it's age. I just need to get this right and it's an awesome fishing motor. Too late now for this season but will be all ready to go for next. I'm going to try to take the seal out tomorrow with the drive shaft in place. I'll need to remove the roll pin a the top but it should be doable.
 
???----------Why not slide the bearing cover underneath the pump up the shaft.------Need to replace that gasket anyway.-------Careful as parts are spendy.---------And what about the shift rod o-ring ?----------Often over looked but a major leak point.
 
FishyBC said:
... 1966 6hp Evinrude... I pulled the lower unit again (I wish I could figure out how to do that without removing the powerhead) and now I cannot get the driveshaft out of the lower unit. Is it stuck in there or why would it not come out ?
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There is a retaining clip at the bottom of the driveshaft. To remove the driveshaft, you need to dismantle the gearcase to gain access to that clip.

There's no need to remove the powerhead in order to drop the lower unit. Simply put the unit (gearcase) into whatever gear (usually reverse) that will drop the lower unit the furthest and remove one bolt from the brass shift rod that connects the upper and lower shift rods. You may need to turn the prop by hand to have the gear engage the shifter dog properly.
 
I had one of these old evinrude 6's and I don't think it had a 2-piece shift rod. It was one continuous rod connected at the top under the powerhead. I think I had to remove to powerhead as well. It's been a while and my memory isn't what it used to be.
 
The 1964 model 5.5 HP was the last to use the single piece shift rod.----Required removal of the powerhead to drop the lower unit.--------Bonus was the shift rarely , if ever went out of adjustment !!--------------50 year old motors may have had different lower units installed.-------The older units with the larger bearing surface above the pinion on the shock absorber were better.------Opinions may vary.
 
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Oh yes, It's quite possible it was "Frankenstein'd" for sure...but was so simple to work on, ran great, and always started on first or second pull (and you can still get parts for them).
 
So I decided to leave the shaft in and try to remove the seal around it. This is my first crack at it and am not doing so well. The seal looks like it's made of brass and I drilled two holes 1/8" opposite each other. I tried self tapping screws but the seal is just tearing and coming apart. What am I doing wrong ?
I likely will do the prop shaft seal next and it looks to be brass also. I don't want to go too deep with the screw either and damage the housing.
This has got to be easier than this.
 
Joe, that sounds like the issue. Are these ugly to get into or not too bad ? It's not a salt water motor but it is old and I would like to keep this from becoming a disaster !
 
A good year and a very good design. I consider it a easy engine to work on... of course a specific service manual for that one engine helps..... NOT a manual that covers a half dozen different models which makes it very confusing.

I suggest you drain the gearlube, remove the skeg and gears etc so you can pull that seal properly to avoid destroying the gearcase housing.

Note when you do that.... there is no doubt a locating pin in the upper housing where the propshaft seal housing locks in, and possibly also a locating pin for the forward gear bearing.... look closely for them.
 
Thank you Joe again.
So I did what you said, removed the skeg and found metal bits. I see the pin on the bottom of the driveshaft and it was stuck but with some persuading the gear let go from the driveshaft. It's a bunch of parts now. There is play in the bushing the driveshaft sits in within the cowl as well.
I think I'm going to need another lower unit ! Bummer....... Oh well, I will use this as a learning experience/practice for getting the seals out.

How interchangeable are the lower units ? Does it have to be real close to a 1965 or can it be anything 6hp in the 60's ? Or even one from the 70's ?
 
Lower unit from a 54 to a 79 model can be made to fit.------------There are wee differences on the parts , such as the shift rod / shock absorber / pinion fitment.---------A good mechanic can make them fit as a complete assembly.
 
racerone said:
Lower unit from a 54 to a 79 model can be made to fit.------------There are wee differences on the parts , such as the shift rod / shock absorber / pinion fitment.---------A good mechanic can make them fit as a complete assembly.
Click to expand...

Do any other lower unit sizes fit ? I'll be keeping my eyes open for the first one I can find and if any other sizes work, it would make it more likely that I might find one. Again, thanks to all for your help.
 
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