Logo

Chrysler 360 not getting oil

PhaseV

New member
Just had my port engine push a push rod though a rocker arm on cylinder #2. Removed the rocker cover to discover no lubrication to that area. Oil pressure has been checked and is good, Can the oil passage ways (galleries or journals) become plugged with debris or sludge and restrict oil flow to the cylinder head? I did change the oil this spring but boat is new to me and I do not have the history on it. Thanks
 
Was there a tapping noise before this happened,excessive valve clearance,bad lifter,worn cam lobe. A little more history is needed,age of engine,hours on your craft. Oil passages can clog from insufficient maintenance,oil changes!
 
Was there a tapping noise before this happened,excessive valve clearance,bad lifter,worn cam lobe. A little more history is needed,age of engine,hours on your craft. Oil passages can clog from insufficient maintenance,oil changes!


Here is what I know.

Purchased the donated boat from an Ebay auction last fall (1978 F32 Trojan). Had a five mile trip to take it home and I remember that the oil pressure took 5-10 minutes to get up to a reasonable pressure. Changed the oil before winterizing.
Hour meter reads 1600 hours but this is a replacement engine. Not sure on exact hours.
The carburetor on the boat needed to be rebuilt (bad float was flooding engine)
Compression test this spring revealed that I had only 65 lbs in the #2 cylinder. Removed the head to find the head gasket had failed. Replaced the gasket and used the boat for the whole summer.
Oil pressure on this engine was never as good as it should of been 30-40 lbs. Changed the oil filter to look for improvement and added more oil to the engine. Oil Pressure went up. Added another 1/2 quart and the oil pressure went to 80lbs??? Been there ever since
The engine had a little noise at start up but went away after warm up.
Started making a hollow exhaust noise last week. Thought it might be a failing water pump impeller.
Took it for a slow ride last Sunday and the engine failed. Big knocks.
Removed the rocker cover and discovered a lift rod went right through the rocker arm (but not bent). The area had been starved of oil. the area looks like it had become extremely hot, the rocker arm shaft has been ruined.
I would like to be able to use the boat for the rest of the season if possible. I am not sure if I have to pull the engine in the fall or not. Any suggestions would help
 
Oil pressure went from 40-80,possible clogged filter,but most have a relief bypass built in.Head needs to be pulled,cooling passages inspected for overheat condition, magnafluxed for possible cracks.A new rocker arm and pushrod are in order. Check rocker arm stud for damage& surrounding valve train components for abnormal wear&tear. The pushrod can be checked on a flat piece of glass.Your oil delivery issue needs to resolved
 
I made the assumption that the heat came from the area not getting lubrication. Have any idea how to check the oil delivery system? Thanks for the help
 
A pushrod through the rocker is NOT uncommon for Mopar. The standard rocker cup area is relatively thin. A lack of lubrication spells doom. If something has clogged the shaft port it won't last long. The shaft, rocker, and pushrod at the very least will need to be replaced. The balance of the rockers could be a coin toss.
A hanging/bent valve can also cause this.
I wouldn't trust an electronic oil pressure gauge if that is what you have. I prefer a mechanical.

There is orientation of the rocker shafts that must be adhered to or it will not lubricate the rockers properly/sufficiently. There is also specific sides to the rockers, so don't use an intake rocker on an exhaust valve.
 

Attachments

  • shaft orient.jpg
    shaft orient.jpg
    55.9 KB · Views: 41
  • rockers.jpg
    rockers.jpg
    53.8 KB · Views: 42
  • SAVE0015.jpg
    SAVE0015.jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 40
Another think to check is that the orientation of the rocker shaft and rockers is correct. you can bolt it up ay way however the rocker shaft will only fill with oil from the head if it is installed correctly.

Will
 
Thanks to everyone for their input. As it turned out, when I replaced the cylinder head I installed the rocker shaft with the oiling holes facing up which starved the #2 cylinder of oil. That eventually seized the rocker on the shaft, pushed the pushrod through the rocker, bent the other pushrod on #2 cylinder and ruined the rocker shaft. After replacing all the pushrods, two of the rockers and a new shaft the engine is up and running. It has a very small knock that I will look into this winter. Most likely replace the cylinder head with a rebuilt one. Thanks again, PhaseV
 
I had a old 360 in a dodge van that sounded like a large sewing machine. Just prior to a oil change pull 1 quart of oil out of the motor and install a new filter and pour a quart of ATF in and let it run at high idle for 1/2 hour or so. Then do a complete oil change, I ran that motor hard for ten years before the tranny puked. You can pull the distributor and adapt a steel rod to fit the oil pump and prime the system with a drill.
 
Back
Top