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Honda BF225 problems

IF the engine serial number is correct, with Honda part list, its BAGJ-14000528 then it must be the [FONT=&quot]34750-ZY3-A04 partnumber,serialnumber for the ECM[/FONT]
 
Skooter said:
Sorry, I will check on it this evening..i had forgotten.
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Perfekt, I also gonna renew the entire air system and fuellines from the boat to the engine, i smell a strong sent of petrol in the boat, so i think there might be a bad airline somewhere 2, since its loosing power like a struggle to give the extra 20%
 
Skooter said:
Sorry, I've been so busy that I forgot.. Here is what I have 34750-zy2-013
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Aaaaah, i dunno if it fits, since i got a different number.
I'm abit curious, can a bad coil or halfworking sparkplug be the cause of the lack of power? I was in touch with Honda Marine Europe, and they almost guarantee that the ECM is not the case, but i havent had it tested yet, the plug was new 50-100hours ago but i tested every coil by unhooking them and everytime the engine started to skip. but i had a similar cause on a car a few years back and the plug was the issue, I recorded a video of some missbehaving of the engine that i will upload if that can indicate something for you?

Cheers
 
Okay, I'm confused. If your engine is an 05, then you should have the original ECU and original type HO2 sensor - the one with the 22 mm fitting on the base. That's all explained in Honda SB # 70. Send me an e-mail if you need a copy.

I think we are obviously missing something. I'm really scratching my head on this one. Based on your descriptions and based on all the work you have done, I still think you have a problem in the fuel feed system. You said you cleaned all of the fuel system and fuel screens. Below is a list of what you should have cleaned and/or replaced:

• LP fuel filter 16901-ZY3-003
• HP fuel filter screen 16911 ZY3-010
• Fuel Pump Filter 16911-759-003 (on top of VST)
• Suspension strainer 16915-ZW5-000 (over top of fuel pump filter)
• Fuel Pump Insulator 16718-ZY6-013 - screen on the bottom
• Fuel filter mesh 16614-P5G-003

Note: Fuel filter mesh 16614-P5G-003 is on the fuel rail. Item #4 as shown at…
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...er/BF225AK0 XCA/FUEL PIPE INJECTOR/parts.html

This last item is critical and needs to be thoroughly cleaned or replaced.

I would go through all of these again and be on the lookout for any crimped fuel hoses.
 
Iv'e been following this thread since last year and a compression test was mentioned about 3-4 times, A gauge can be borrowed from auto parts here in states,not sure in finland,they are 20-30 dollars here for a decent one. This is the first step in troubleshooting!! Was prop changed by p/o before you purchased her? you mentioned new fuel, How old was the unused fuel? How much new fuel was added to old fuel? Was fuel tank cleaned before all those filters and screens were installed?
 
johnnygjr said:
Iv'e been following this thread since last year and a compression test was mentioned about 3-4 times, A gauge can be borrowed from auto parts here in states,not sure in finland,they are 20-30 dollars here for a decent one. This is the first step in troubleshooting!! Was prop changed by p/o before you purchased her? you mentioned new fuel, How old was the unused fuel? How much new fuel was added to old fuel? Was fuel tank cleaned before all those filters and screens were installed?
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I just ordered one, it will be here tomorow, i'm also about to launch the boat for the season so after i completly redo the steps chawk_man just mentioned, i will also now run it on a separate fuel tank i have from an old 20hp outboard, just a hose straight into a small 5gallon/20liter tank. As I mentioned(i think) i work for a company that specialize in tank cleaning (Fuel, oil, waste, kitchen, etc. etc. and stuff like that, so i will get some help to completly clean the tank 2, its a 300l tank, dunno what that is in gallons, but im guessing around 70-80, i think a gallon is around 4 liter or so. but i will go through that compression check tomorow. so i will post and update on that. I would love that Hond SB # 70 so i will poke you in a mail.

Do notice, that LP and HP fuel filter are recently replaced, 15 engine-hours ago.
 
Roger that on the LP and HP fuel filters being changed. You mentioned that earlier. It will be interesting to see what the other four look like. Also, the compression test results will be interesting to see. Be sure you have fully charged batteries, all spark plugs removed, kill switch lanyard pulled, and throttle in full open position. The key is not so much the compression numbers themselves, but the range. The lowest cylinder should be no more than 10% lower than the highest cylinder.

FYI - 3.785 liters = 1 gallon.
 
chawk_man said:
FYI - 3.785 liters = 1 gallon.
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I slept in school FIY xD math was boring.
I already had the pump out so the screen there is OK, superclean infact, so now its 3 to go, but i'm removing all to check again, and making sure no seals are leaking, or that i've done a bad job putting everything back in place.
 
So, a little update on the compressiontest.
Did everything as you said, and i did come up with these results.

I order each side of the engine 1,3,5 or 2,4,6

So left side(from standing behind the engine)
1: 14,1BAR/207PSI
3: 14.1BAR/207PSI
5: 13,9BAR/200PSI

Right Side:
2: 13,9BAR/200PSI
4: 14,1BAR/207PSI
6: 14,3BAR/215PSI

I did all tests twice, it did result in me bloing my new tool :'( but i got the test done.

the IAB gauge/valve worked fine, did some testing, and at around 3800rpm it opened or closed, dunno which xD

Status on the tank, i drained over 100l of petrol, it was pretty clean, BUT i do suspect water in it, the fuel was new before the season ended. I took a picture of the water separator and LP fuel filter, and the color are clearly different, the water separator is clean, and LP have a golden look.
I will see if can post the picture of it for you.
 
Those compression numbers are really excellent - just like a new engine.

Yep - That IAB valve is certainly working as intended. FYI - it is activating the IAB diaphragm and opening at 3800 rpm's. That moves the baffles over the intake manifold 45 degrees.

HOWEVER, revving up a 225 to that level while on muffs, is a really bad idea. I'm surprised you didn't get an overheat warning very quickly.

My 225 always shakes a little bit at idle (650 rpm.) I think that is normal. BUT, once about 900 rpms, it should be as solid as a rock. From the video it looks like yours shakes a lot at what I'm guessing is around 2000 rpm's. That's not right. It looks like you have a definite miss on at least one of the cylinders.

Given all that you have done, I'm stumped. As I suggested in my PM, check the other vacuum lines.

After that, I guess my next step would be to try to find a known good (hopefully used at a good price) ECU and swap it out.
 
chawk_man said:
Oops! Also, drain the fuel lines and hook up to an external tank with known fresh fuel.
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And check fuel rail filters xD im gonna do that now in a few minutes, FYI I got a high pressure water system on the muffs and i had the other water inlet hooked up aswell, it didnt get that warm as i could touch the manifoils(i also have reduced feeling in my hands duo injury) but tomorow i will launch the boat with an external tank, i also ordered new sparkplugs from a Honda dealer, the right ones rgk F11 or something like that.if this do not help, ill dismount the engine offshore and call for a tow ��
 
OK. Keep us posted on how that goes. Correct plugs are NGK IZFR6F11. ONLY. These are the quite expensive iridium-tipped plugs.
 
chawk_man said:
OK. Keep us posted on how that goes. Correct plugs are NGK IZFR6F11. ONLY. These are the quite expensive iridium-tipped plugs.
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yes these sparkplugs are now ordered, funny thing tho, i did remove the entire fuel system and checked it, and i was worried that i would do something wrong putting it back, it was CLEARLY water in the system tho, but no dirty or bad seals and filters, all was clean, even the injectors was clean, BUT of all things that did go wrong, i broke the HP seal, luckly i got TONS of these o-rings at my work so i can replace it tomorow. and the leak was clearly showing up on the engine as it was acting as it had a cold. now over to the fuel pressure test. I have tools for fuel pressure but i did not have anything to attach it to, so i modified my compressiontester as the gauge was the same tho, and the first test had these result: 3,1BAR/47PSI, but it was leaking abit, after i fixed that, the result was 4.2 Bar and 60PSI.
 
This is from memory, but I think 60 PSI is entirely too high. I believe that the spec is 42 to 47 PSI. Will try to check.

A while back, someone had a real problem with fuel pressure being too high. I think it turned out that the filter on the fuel rail was clogged. Skooter, was that you?
 
Here's the fuel pressure specs: Standard fuel pressure [At idle speed of 650 550 rpml 280-330 kpa (2.9 - 3.4 kgf/cm2, 41- 48 psi)
Now your pressure appears too high at 60PSI, <== Can you verify that your modified Compression/Gauge is accurate?

As Chawkman And Skooter have stated; check your mesh at the fuel regulator. I found my fuel pressure started ~50psi but increased quickly up to 90 psi. With Skooter and Chawkman's help found that the mesh was all clogged up. I spray with cleaner and brought fuel pressure back within spec. Goodluck!


PS: Yes Chawkman, Skooter also had the mesh clogged issue.

#4
MESH, FUEL FILTER (Honda Code 4760195).
16614-P5G-003

 
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