Logo

Please help with 2011 75 TLDI wire and hose routing

aje3721

New member
Sorry if this is a newby question but I'm having a few issues finding the routing for some wiring and hoses. I just picked up a new to me 2011 75 TLDI and I wasn't there to see everything come apart.Would someone please help me with the routing of the fuel line from the filter (forward under the oil tank and out the front of the cowl?), the location to connect the battery cables (negative I assume is anywhere to the block? The supplied battery cable positive has such a small terminal on it I can't believe it came from the starter post. The last issue doesn't involve wiring, the oil tank is lose. Can anyone enlighten me as to how in the world you reach the two bottom bolts that secure the oil tank. I think the bolts are there but the rubber washers are shot and the tank flops all over the place. Hopefully these are the only issues I need to resolve to get on the water. I managed to find some missing clips and washers laying in the cowl for linkage and routed the trim sender where I think it makes sense. Things just weren't taken apart and marked like I would have hoped. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
 
Well I was lucky enough to find a service manual online, downloaded the pdf and though I would be good to go. I poured over the 300 some pages and didn't find what I was looking for. Found everything else though. I simply need the location that the positive ring terminal from the batter cable connects to the motor. I assumed that it would connect to the bottom of the starter or what I believed to be the solenoid. There is one large ringer terminal and corresponding wires on that terminal now and the nut seemed a little lose so "Bingo" that's where it has to go right? Well the ring terminal coming from my batter is way to small to go on that post! For that matter, the page in the FSM that shows how to test the starter solenoid doesn't show anything like the part on the starter, it looks like something up under the flywheel cover. If I was working on a small block Chevy then I would say it has to go on the post on the starter but the ring doesn't fit. If there is anyone with a TLDI out there, I would love a pic of where your positive cable from the battery connects under the cowl. Being rather new here, I don't know how or if I can post a pic but I'll try.positive cable.jpg
 
This is the mess of relays and what I believe to be the solenoid (top of pic) in the FSM. I'm willing to hack that small terminal off and crimp on a bigger one if in fact the wire goes on the bottom of the starter like the above pic. If I knew anyone in the area running a Tohatsu, I would be in their driveway pulling their cowl off right now.
wiring.jpg
 
Here is a quick from the FSM referring to testing the starter solenoid. So wouldn't the cable from the battery go to the solenoid? If so, I sure don't see a terminal to connect to.FSM.jpg
 
Ok, here is the last thing I can come up with. This is also from the FSM. The diagram shows the + battery cable going to a post on the starter. It also shows one wire from the starter solenoid going to the same post. The other side of the solenoid goes to another connection point also on the starter. I guess my cable goes on the starter post stacked on top of one of the wires coming from the solenoid? If that's the case, why would the starter not crank constantly as soon as I hook it up to a battery?FSM2.jpg
 
The Factory service manual is copyrighted, so should never be available online. If someone has posted it, please have them take it down. One thing that Tohatsu really gets serious about is copyright infringement. That aside the pages you show do not appear to be from the Factory manual, but rather an aftermarket (useless) manual.

Your picture in post 7 looks like the TT solenoids.

Item 36 in my post 3 is the starter relay (solenoid) as opposed to the bendix on the side of the starter.

Where are you located?
 
The Factory service manual is copyrighted, so should never be available online. If someone has posted it, please have them take it down. One thing that Tohatsu really gets serious about is copyright infringement. That aside the pages you show do not appear to be from the Factory manual, but rather an aftermarket (useless) manual.

Your picture in post 7 looks like the TT solenoids.

Item 36 in my post 3 is the starter relay (solenoid) as opposed to the bendix on the side of the starter.

Where are you located?

I am in central Pennsylvania. We'll as far as the manual, it contains information relevant to my motor, has the same cover sheet as the owner's manual and parts manual and really not my concern as to how it got there. Those are the PTT solenoids and toward the top of the pic is what they describe to be started solenoid. I called a local dealer who opened his manual while on the phone and it matched mine. He didn't know where the cable went either. Wonderful. Starting to question my decision to purchase. Sorry to sound harsh about the manual. I was actually searching for the manual by part number to purchase it and found what I found. Now I feel guilty like I did when I downloaded a Van Halen song from Napster when I was in college.
 
Paul (pvanv)
pvanv,

I got to thinking about what you said about the service manual and you're right. I ordered one (the official one) and it's on it's way. It appears that I'll be needing it to work through a couple issues with my "new to me" TLDI. I had it out for the first time the other day and went through what I thought was an excessive amount of 100% synthetic Tohatsu oil and 10 gallons of gas. That was running approx. 30 miles at 5500 - 5800 rpm with some breaks here and there. I think I'm in for some trouble. Thanks for all the information.
 
Any DFI oil should work. The ratio is variable, and at idle is something like 250:1. So that might be a pint in 10 or 12 gallons (100:1 average of idle and power) when set correctly. At WOT, you will probably use more than a pint in 10 gallons.
 
The "rule" is to not mix TC-W3 oils for fear of gelling. However, I have never had a problem. Your mileage may vary.
Remember that direct-injected motors require the good, DFI-rated oils, so you cannot use run-of-the-mill TC-W3 oil that was intended for a premix, carb setup.
The MD75C uses an electric oil mixing pump, so it should be a "perfect" mix ratio, assuming everything is working correctly.
 
Back
Top