62 lark 40

It rained yesterday..did not work on the motor..today back at it..got new plugs.champion825...went to install the lower one and it would not start...just started to bite then popped back out...acted like it was stripped,Jardin to believe because it just unscrewed a little hard when I removed it ...after more investigstion...there is a helicoil in it...after trying a thread chaser which wouldn't start,I've removed the coil,will be looking for a tool and another one ...I expect to be back working on it on friday...everything is new it should run when I can get this last plug in..I'm thinking that it may have been losing ground compression because it was stripped it didn't help that that coil didn't work either..will keep you posted...thank you all for your suggestions

If it has been helicoiled once I doubt you will get another one to hold. Your best bet would be to get a good used head and just replace it. You probably should pull the head anyways to clean out any frags that may have fallen in when you were messing with it. Then determine if the head is serviceable.

Thank you..I'm going to try another helicoil ss there was no sealer on it...it just popped out with a small screwdriver...I. really hope I don't have to pull the head...or even worse have to locate a decent used one...thank you for the idea...it would be the next step if the helicoil don't work

Get the helicoil name brand insert it may have a tighter fit they are not designed to use a sealer the insert should fit nice and tight then you snap off the tab for the install tool.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heli...767603?hash=item5435e9ccb3:g:v1cAAOSw41xXPK~W
Make sure the package has the helicoil logo on the package

Thank you...it seems the one listed on ebay is metric...I will look for the proper item...after I took out the helicoil,the sparkplug went in without touching what was left of the threads...just like there was nothing there...also would you happen to know if the head from a 1967 33hp would fit?I appreciate your your taking time to answer me...will let you know Friday what transpires

All spark plugs are metric allways have been and the 33hp head will not work it needs a thermostat.

I thought the last post went thru but it's not here so here goes again...last weekend after helicoiling the lower sparkplug hole i tried starting the motor..it ran for 10 seconds..after repeatedly trying to restart it i thought I may have adjusted something wrong so I pulled the flywheel..love and behold I bent the hardened bolts and stripped my 1/2 inch ratchet...the woodruff key sheared even with the crankshaft...metal shavings all over the place...I'm thinking that may have been my fault as I only had the flywheel on hand tight. Now the big question I have is I have a new woodruff key3/32x1/2... but it only will go into the crankshaft part way...is it OK to tap it in with a hammer or do I have to shave it down or is it a different size only available from a dealer?...please give me some idea to go by

Before you go to press the new key in get some valve grinding compound and put it on the crank and spin the flywheel around until it seats nice and flat. When you shear a key like that the tapers get burrs that need to be cleaned off take some oil soaked string and wrap it around the crank and push it down on the seal so you dont get shavings/grit on the seal. Been there done that if you dont take the burrs down even if you torque it so spec 105ft lbs it will likely shear another key plus the flywheel will wobble. To answer your question you cannot use a key from the hardware store unless you grind down the flat spot quite a bit it is not a easy task but dooable. Best to buy OEM and lightly tap it into place, you want the flat part straight up and down.

Just wondering when you said it happened to you too,did you do the same thing I did by not tightening the flywheel down or should I be looking for a different problem/cause

Yes have forgot to torque the flywheel nut to spec more than once. All it takes is a small crease in the key to keep the motor from running also. The best way to adjust the points is with a timing light also but you can use a ohm meter also. Disconnect the condensers and coils from the points just leave the kill wires on the points. Connect the black lead to engine ground and the red to one of the kill wires. With the flywheel on slowly turn the flywheel until you see the points open. the single mark on the flywheel should be in between the two marks on the outer edge of the armature plate. There are two sets of marks 180 degrees out on the plate one set for each set of points. .020 is the field setting to get you home for the points but using the timing light or ohm meter will dial it in real good.

Well I got the new key and checked the point gap ,torqued the flywheel,checked for spark...everything good...it started with no choke and ran for about 5-7sec.runs fast and slows down to nothing...tried numerous times ,fiddled with the only adjustment on the carb with the same result...now I'm really stumped...what could I have possibly done wrong or overlooked...the only thing not connected is the wire to the thermostat...haven't replied it yet

Well I tried it once more and it idled...took it out to try and it ran nice for 2 minutes...then just died,paddled it back to shore and waited a few minutes and tried to start it...it started and quit like before but when it quit gas spewed from the carb...will take it apart tomorrow and see if the float is stuck