Logo

Need impeller

JayB

Member
Hi, I have a customer with a 1967 60hp SeaKing, does anyone know where he could find an impeller or will the Evinrude/Johnson part work ?? TY for your help.

SeaKing 60hp # GG18807A // 36X874214
 
In most cases, the reason that an outboard motor's pump isn't working is that one or more of its pump impeller’s rubber “arms” have taken a set (“permanent” bend) during the off season which prevents them from contacting the entire periphery of the pump housing when the drive shaft rotates. This prevents it from serving as a positive displacement pump at low speeds, which means that the pump can no longer prime itself. While the “correct” fix is to find/purchase/replace it with a new impeller, an equally effective, faster, and much cheaper one is to simply grease it up and reinstall “upside down”; i.e., so that its arms bend in the opposite direction than they did before.


This is how I’ve managed to keep my 1953 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 hp kicker going for the two decades during which new impellers haven’t been available.

It will probably work for your motor(s) too.
 
Last edited:
In most cases, the reason that an outboard motor's pump isn't working is that one or more of its pump impeller’s rubber “arms” have taken a set (“permanent” bend) during the off season which prevents them from contacting the entire periphery of the pump housing when the drive shaft rotates. This prevents it from serving as a positive displacement pump at low speeds, which means that the pump can no longer prime itself. While the “correct” fix is to find/purchase/replace it with a new impeller, an equally effective, faster, and much cheaper one is to simply grease it up and reinstall “upside down”; i.e., so that its arms bend in the opposite direction than they did before.


This is how I’ve managed to keep my 1953 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 hp kicker going for the two decades during which new impellers haven’t been available.

It will probably work for your motor(s) too.
This has to be one of the worst pieces of information I have ever seen. A worn pump is a worn pump no fixing that. This is a case of to lazy or to cheap to fix it right.
 
This has to be one of the worst pieces of information I have ever seen. A worn pump is a worn pump no fixing that. This is a case of to lazy or to cheap to fix it right.

First, the word "to" doesn't mean the same thing as "too".
.

Second, "pumps" haven't been made for this motor for over 60 years & they quit selling impellers that fit it over twenty years ago.

Third, my motor's pump is indeed worn (corroded, grooved, etc.) but it does work when fixed as I've suggested.

Fourth, it's a bit harder to install a set (bent) impeller "upside down" than it is to install a virgin (symmetrical) one that doesn't have a set. Therefore the person doing so is not being "lazy".

Idiot.
 
First, the word "to" doesn't mean the same thing as "too".
.

Second, "pumps" haven't been made for this motor for over 60 years & they quit selling impellers that fit it over twenty years ago.

Third, my motor's pump is indeed worn (corroded, grooved, etc.) but it does work when fixed as I've suggested.

Fourth, it's a bit harder to install a set (bent) impeller "upside down" than it is to install a virgin (symmetrical) one that doesn't have a set. Therefore the person doing so is not being "lazy".

Idiot.

You have posted this on other sites with the correct part # for the pump on your motor. BRP still makes the pump and recommends grinding the hub I have done it numerous times. So your NLA theory holds no water at all. What you do with your motor is your problem but telling other people to do it is ridiculous. If telling people not to risk their motors on a piece of bad advice makes me an idiot so be it.
 
You continue to be wrong. First, I've never "posted this on other sites with the correct part # for the pump".

Second, I've checked out BRP's website again (http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=3ea32410-09eb-4e8c-b9eb-2c3c68ec59d4), clicked on "Evinrude Parts" & discovered (again) that it doesn't list anything for engines built prior to 1968. If it does supply pumps & impellers for 1953 Fleetwins, it keeps that fact(?) a secret from anyone accessing their catalog via the internet. Does BRP have a special catalog that only experts like you can access?

If you have something to say that's simultaneously truthful, specific, & helpful about this subject, please do so. If not, quit "tweeting" me with your opinions.
 
You absolutely put the pump # in for your motor Sierra 18-3001 on the other sites. And if you did a little leg work you would find a dealer that has the parts micro-fiche which pre-dates the 1968 internet catalog. All that changed between your motor and the 1954 model is the driveshafts are a smaller diameter on the 54s. So you need to grind the hub out to 17/64s to fit your shaft. A Certified BRP Dealer helped me figure that out and it's what they suggested. The impellers are identical except for the hub diameter. But hey do with that what you want. You can try to make me look stupid all you want I don't care.


Common sense isn't common anymore
 
You absolutely put the pump # in for your motor Sierra 18-3001 on the other sites. And if you did a little leg work you would find a dealer that has the parts micro-fiche which pre-dates the 1968 internet catalog. All that changed between your motor and the 1954 model is the driveshafts are a smaller diameter on the 54s. So you need to grind the hub out to 17/64s to fit your shaft. A Certified BRP Dealer helped me figure that out and it's what they suggested. The impellers are identical except for the hub diameter. But hey do with that what you want. You can try to make me look stupid all you want I don't care. If finding a dealer is to hard put up an ad on on the AOMCI website it's free they have them. I gave you a bunch of good information for free. This is the last time I will comment on your bad advice.


Common sense isn't common anymore
 
Last edited:
Wong again, that impeller (Sierra's 18-3001) does not fit my motor. As I've said, it can be made to fit if you absolutely have to do it that way. I don't & neither do most people in a similar situation. I did purchase one a few years ago & will attempt to machine it down to size when the old one finally developes a tear or crack.

I'm also unwilling to do any more leg work that I absolutely have to. Problems like this shouldn't take lots of time/effort/money to solve.

You started this little war, not me.
 
I didnt read past the 2nd post. Never put petroleum products on a impeller especially grease. Never turn the impeller over just install new (old is old). If there are grooves cut or pits in the housing or plate they must also be replaced. Use a little dish soap on the impeller for the initial spin up the pump primes itself as soon as you put the motor in the water.Most of us here respect motors alot more than people. it is stupid to install a impeller that needs to be replaced before you start the motor.
 
Hi, I have a customer with a 1967 60hp SeaKing, does anyone know where he could find an impeller or will the Evinrude/Johnson part work ?? TY for your help.

SeaKing 60hp # GG18807A // 36X874214
FYI that is a 1963 60hp gale motor and more than likely produced by OMC?
 
I didnt read past the 2nd post. Never especially grease. Never turn the impeller over just install new (old is old). If there are grooves cut or pits in the housing or plate they must also be replaced. Use a little dish soap on the impeller for the initial spin up the pump primes itself as soon as you put the motor in the water.Most of us here respect motors alot more than people. it is stupid to install a impeller that needs to be replaced before you start the motor.

If you are going to comment about something as touchy as this thread's subject seems to be, you really should read past its second post before doing so.

If you've ever run a two cycle -esp a 16:1 gas/oil fueled - outboard motor in your test tank, you have put petroleum products onto its impeller.

As I've mentioned before & you probably already know, there are no replacement impellers, pump housings or plates available for 1953 Johrudes. Consequently, owners of such motors seeking help from professional mechanics (you?) are usually told that they must either go without a motor or buy a new one. That might be good for (your?) business but doesn't serve the customers' best interests.

I'm not a professional mechanic and my advice is/was meant for motor owners who are both willing and able to think for themselves.
 
Back
Top