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1985 Evinrude 120 hp Shift rod height ?

Top surface of gearcase to center of shift rod hole.

1985 - 120, 140hp Loop Charged = (L) 21-15/16" - - (XL) 26-15/16" plus/minus 1/32". Have shift rod in neutral.
 
joereeves said:
Top surface of gearcase to center of shift rod hole.

1985 - 120, 140hp Loop Charged = (L) 21-15/16" - - (XL) 26-15/16" plus/minus 1/32". Have shift rod in neutral.
Click to expand...

Thank you Joe
Its back together now !
Now to adjust the shifter cable , have not got it right yet ...
 
(Centering Shift Cable)
(J. Reeves)

When all is as it should be, the proper method to adjust the shift cable is to disconnect the cable from the engine. Move the shift linkage on the engine to find the center of the play in neutral, and when found, leave it centered.

Now, grab the end of the shift cable sleeve, push and pull it to find the center of the play there, and center that play.

Adjust the trunion on the threaded portion of the shift cable so that the centered play of the cable lines up with the centered play of the engine's shift linkage. Install and lock the shift cable with the retaining clamp in that position. That's it.
 
update on progress ,
it will not go in gear still with the bellcrank unhooked , almost makes it . I'm pushing the arm rearward and that's the one that won't shift fully .(reverse)
I see the block the shift rod goes in has a small bolt that faces rearward . As I have the shift rod height adjusted , maybe that can be adjusted there .
Or an error with my measurement ?
I had to push forward on the shift rod to get it to go in the slot , and had the bend in the rod facing rearward going in place . Hook back ...
 
There is no shift adjustment you can make at the powerhead linkage.

The bend of the shift rod faces forward.... not backwards.
 
cool , will try again ...
remeasured and it was way off (must of clicked out of neutral setting it), the bend towards the rear , so the reach is rearward was ok ..
have another water flow issue before it goes back in ..
Posted that in another post
Thanks for taking the time to let me know what to look for here , was using a lot of time and guessing before . Experience is valued !
 
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underdog57 said:
cool , will try again ...
remeasured and it was way off (must of clicked out of neutral setting it), the bend towards the rear , so the reach is rearward was ok ..
have another water flow issue before it goes back in ..
Posted that in another post
Thanks for taking the time to let me know what to look for here , was using a lot of time and guessing before . Experience is valued !
Click to expand...

Did you actually read my reply?........ The bend faces FORWARD!
 
yes , read your reply thoroughly . I was thinking forward and typed rearward by accident . I'm sure you got my question answered .
My mistake on wording the reply , ..the far sticking out part of the rod is forward ..

Am sure the shift will be fine ..

I think I'll wait to put it together as I think the grommet at the top of the water tube is leaking ....
I put air to the tell tale hose end , blew plenty of pressure in . Air is coming out the water tube at the bottom where the water pump attaches .
But if I plug that I can hear mass air leaking from somewhere ... seems like out in the mid section ...
Not sure the kind of job that will be ...

I did post the water pump issue in a separate post

Appreciate your time simplifying my shift issue !
 
Air pressure to a water tube? Yeah, you'll hear a lot of air in that exhaust housing. The tube has a hole drilled in it as a specific spot to allow a water spray to cool the inner housing and the tuning tube... otherwise the paint would be burnt off the outer housing in one trip.

The upper grommet leaking? Lets hope not. To get at that grommet, you need to remove the lower unit, then the powerhead, then the adapter plate, then in turning the adapter plate upside down, you can get at the two screws that attach the tube to the bottom of the plate. Not for the faint of heart!
 
Ok , I'm getting spurts of water out the tell tale with the engine running and ear muffs for water supply ..
Seems like its cooling fine though . I can touch the engine after its been running awhile ..
I was hoping for a steady stream of water out the tell tale ? It spurts out once in awhile like ..not close to steady
Interesting about the spray hole in the tube to cool the housing ...
I might put it together and try a lake run and see how it pees with more water supply and not go far in case need to limp it back ..
Right , rather not pull all that apart , especially if it's not a problem ..
Great info !
 
That model should have a steady flow running out the tell tale exit.

On a flushette, the water must be on full blast on a high hp engine.
 
Ok ,
Not sure whats going on with the water pressure , I ran it with a thermostat removed . It took awhile then poured out , not shooting out ...
Another odd idea , to see if the water tube is ok was to hook up the garden hose to it and see if direct pressure makes a difference ..
Maybe spin the lower unit drive shaft with a drill and see how it pumps water ...
Like you said it's not pushing the right stream of water out the tell tale ...
trying to isolate at what point the pressure drop is ...
I just bought the boat and forgot to check the tell tale unfortunately ..
Narrowing down whats normal or not is a huge help
Appreciate the replies
 
The thermostat is required, not only to create the proper operating temperature, but also to create the proper back pressure that's needed in the water passageway areas.
 
Was a new water pump installed before#1 thread,was it sealed properly?still sounds like upper seal on water tube. Shift rod adjustment is to CENTER of hole to TOP of gearcase,a very precise measurement 21-15/16 when in neutral in lower unit.
 
It takes a few seconds to fill the block as it takes about 2.5 gallons to fill. The water indicator comes off the cooing exhaust side of block and it just pours out in a heavy stream with no pressure. It does not have a restrictor like a crossflow to make it squirt.
 
I cut a garden hose and stuck it on the water tube inlet , it's peeing out the tell tale with this . a steady stream so appears no blockage there . A lot of water comes down the mid section though...

I'm going to take the pump apart and seal between the new cup and new body , missed sealing that area , kid an active three year old was very distracting , ha ha ..so hard to focus on instruction sheet ...

There is another grommet the sheet says to use unless it's a 60 deg V4 or V6 . not sure designation of this engine . The grommet is not in the full kit and not put in ..
The grommet that goes inside the pump body is in , the other optional is the one that fits over the top of the water outlet from the pump outlet adapter ..

Meanwhile will try to find out about if the frommet is needed or not .

Another guess is the water tube might be bent up and not fully seating ? Very tricky for this job ...
Thanks for a lot of advanced know how ! Really getting to what is normal or not with your experience !
 
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Pertaining to the 60 degree, 90 degree thing................

That's speaking of the degree difference between the two cylinder banks.

Looking straight down at the engine, and visually drawing a line (front to back) down the center of one bank, then the other, you'll see that forms a right angle of 90 degrees.
 
Ok , Joe ,
I'll have to get the grommet , The kit had two of the ones that go inside the body and missing the one that goes over the outlet...
Will sort that out asap ...
Great info simply and clearly explained , really appreciate the help
 
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