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6R69 Driveshaft Drivel Pin broken

F

FishyBC

Contributing Member
[h=1]So I decided to replace the impeller on my 1969 6hp and when I pulled the lower unit off, I went to remove the pin at the top of the drive shaft and it came out in 3 pieces. I've seen on this board that some folks replaced it with something else but suggest use semi soft metal. Is there something that you can replace this with that will work well or should I just purchase a new one ?
I found the following OMC part number 0303261 but I'm in Canada so it would be more than a week to get it. If something else can do the same job and I'm not compromising the motor, please let me know otherwise I'll order one up.[/h]Thanks
 
I see that they are the same part number for 175 and 200 hp motors as they are for 6hp. Are they all the same size ?
I will call the dealer today to see if they have and but if not, does anyone know the dimensions by chance ? We do have some stainless steel slotted spring pins at work that are probably exactly the same but don't know the exact size.
 
??? 175 and 200hp?? I guess you know something I don't. I'll go out in the shop and see if I have one to measure. Later.
 
Nominal 3/32" (actual .096) x .675" That length seems weird. Maybe it has been replaced with a generic??

EDIT: Or considered 11/16" (.687")
 
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It is a common part and could be used anywhere on an outboard motor.----On a 175 or 200 hp it could be used on the carburetor throttle shafts as an example.----Certainly not on the driveshaft !!
 
fdrgator said:
Nominal 3/32" (actual .096) x .675" That length seems weird. Maybe it has been replaced with a generic??

EDIT: Or considered 11/16" (.687")
Click to expand...

So are you saying it should be .687" (11/16ths) ?
The one I pulled out was in 3 pieces and the longest piece was about 7/16ths.
Not exactly sure what it does but if it is supposed to be .687" long and the one I had was 7/16ths, I'm wondering if it was even doing what it is supposed to be doing.
 
This pin drives the mechanical seal under the powerhead.-----------Easy to pull the powerhead and inspect that critical assembly.----------I always do that regardless !
 
racerone said:
This pin drives the mechanical seal under the powerhead.-----------Easy to pull the powerhead and inspect that critical assembly.----------I always do that regardless !
Click to expand...

Thank you racerone.
I pulled the powerhead last night and yes it is as easy as 6 bolts and disconnecting fuel lines and the choke. I'm guessing it's a bit more work to get a 9.9 power head off.

I cleaned everything up under there and have ordered the new Roll pin, power head gasket, o-ring for that assembly and the top gasket for the assembly as it has a lip on it and while I could cut one out, I'm guessing the lip is important ?
Everything else looks good.

So just to clarify for my reassembly,

1) I put the lower unit back into place
2) Assemble the pieces back on the top of the driveshaft while it's in place ?
3) Set the power head back on and the spring compresses and seals the power head
 
Correct.-------Is that metal washer and sealing surface ( seal stator ) in good shape ?-------I would recommend the factory gasket for the seal.---------The ring on the stator goes up and holds the gasket in place.-------The black carbon piece spins and is held to the stator by the spring.
 
racerone said:
Correct.-------Is that metal washer and sealing surface ( seal stator ) in good shape ?-------I would recommend the factory gasket for the seal.---------The ring on the stator goes up and holds the gasket in place.-------The black carbon piece spins and is held to the stator by the spring.
Click to expand...

Yes it is in good shape. The o-ring was missing and the top gasket is not bad but if I'm in this far, I'd rather put a new one in and it will outlast me hopefully !

Parts should be here Tuesday or Wednesday and we'll take a crack at putting it all back together.
Thank you !
 
These motors when in good shape are some of the best fishing motors that were ever made.----Easy / cheap to maintain if you can do the work yourself.--------Will basically outlast the typical owner.
 
So I am ready to put this back together and would appreciate a run down of the order. I'm guessing the brass cap a the bottom goes first and then you somehow get the spring pin in ? Is there a way to get that cap around the spring pin if it's already in place before you raise the leg back in place ?
I'm probably missing something simple here but ......
 
The "cap: simply sits atop the pin so as to keep pressure on the spring which in turn keeps the cork seal pressed against the crankshaft sealing area.
 
The pin is installed in the shaft before you install the lower unit !------------The 2 bumps on the cup are down and the pin drives that cup.-----------The carbon seal spins against the stator and that is know as a " mechanical seal "
 
Thank you Racerone. I assembled everything and it seemed to go well, and then got to the point of bolting the powerhead back on. 4 of the bolts tightened up nicely, the last 2 however when threaded up just spin when I'm trying to tighten them down. They came out easily and everything felt normal. I kept everything together so I'm sure I'm using the correct bolts. Once I have those 2 bolts on I'm ready to test this thing.

Is there something I'm missing ? Why would these be loose ? I don't think they're stripped but what else could it be ?
2 of the powerhead bolts did had different sized heads but looked to be the same length and thread.

I'd prefer to not have to pull the powerhead off again but if I have to, I will.
 
Bolts are stainless, Are threads aluminum? pull all bolts and recheck diameters with calipers,if all same ,helicoil time maybe.
 
From the nature of the repairs it sounds like someone put it back together wrong to begin with. Just take your time I know your in a hurry to get on the water but either it is right or it aint. Pull the powerhead and put the bolts in until they bottom out and measure the width of the exhaust housing and lower engine cover. If need be get some longer bolts to maximize the amount of threads in the powerhead. Alot of people try to torque bolts to spec, on older motors just use loctite and get them good and snug is all thats necessary.
 
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