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Aq145a

Andur

New member
Hello,

i had a boat with AQ130 installed, but the engine didnt run good, had some faults, so i thought of replacing it.
Came to find a AQ145A instead.
Now the questions are:

Can the engine fit to the same sterndrive as the AQ130?
Does the starter from the 130 fit to the 145?

The 130 had AQ250 sterndrive, and i have a AQ280 also.

Now can the 145, the bell housing from 130 and 280 drive fit all together?


Thanks.
 
280 drives will directly connect to a 250 transom shield, no problem. What you need to check is that the 280 drive has the correct reduction for a 4 cylinder engine. While the P/N tag is supposed to indicate reduction ratio, I would not trust it unless the drive was factory new. The tag is attached to the upper housing, while the reduction happens in the lower unit. Best to tag the input and output shafts with tape and count the number of turns of the input shafts to get 10 turns of output (prop) shaft and then dividing that number by 10. Why to 10 turns? Ratios are close in value and using 10 turns of the output shaft makes determining the actual ratio less error prone.

Swapping the engines should be a go, but I'll leave that topic to wiser heads.
 
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Hello,

i had a boat with AQ130 installed, but the engine didnt run good, had some faults, so i thought of replacing it.
Came to find a AQ145A instead.
Now the questions are:

Can the engine fit to the same sterndrive as the AQ130?
Yes! The reduction is the same...... 2.15:1

Does the starter from the 130 fit to the 145?
That I am not certain of.
The 130 is a push-rod engine, the 145 is an OHC engine. If you do buy a new starter motor, be sure to pick up a HTGR/PMGR style.


The 130 had AQ250 sterndrive, and i have a AQ280 also.
As Bob suggested, the reduction must match..... and if the 280 drive was correct for the AQ145, all should work.

However, I would NOT re-use the 250 transom shield for several reasons:
The 250 uses the small collar steering fork shaft, whereas the 280 shaft is larger (bushings last longer)
The 280 shield will be equipped with the larger exhaust "down tube" that will be required by the AQ145 engine exhaust manifold.

Now can the 145, the bell housing from 130 and 280 drive fit all together?
That would be the "flywheel cover" (bell housing in the automotive world).
The AQ130 drive coupler will be unlike the AQ145 engine's Borg Warner style.... meaning that the pilot area of the AQ130 PDS will NOT work with the AQ145 B/W drive coupler.

What ever you end up doing, make dang sure that you replace the PDS bearing!



By the way, I would pull the prop, remove the ring anode, clean the AFT-most area of the prop shaft bearing carrier, and look at the numbers that will be stamped there.
You should see 2.15 stamped into this surface....... not 1.89 or 1.61!!!!!
 
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OK, since now everything seems fine... exept that the 250 steering helmet is different than 280, but, cant remove it from the steering fork. Are the joints there threaded to the helmet or just need to be pushed out?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vaxiwzgc6dcj7je/2016-08-09 18.47.44.jpg?dl=0
The pin thats holding the helmet.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leofhzewhphx4hu/2016-08-09 18.58.47.jpg?dl=0
250 drive

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uenhpol5totah4a/2016-08-09 18.58.52.jpg?dl=0
280 drive

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j9zkxjmqil7en6a/2016-08-09 18.59.21.jpg?dl=0
connection to the boat

https://www.dropbox.com/s/co8wzdyjh3qn8dn/2016-08-09 19.00.07.jpg?dl=0
145a engine
 
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OK. Got the helmet removed, it was so old and gotten stuck that i just cut it out with an anglegrinder.
Installed the 280, fits nicely.
Took the drive coupler from 130, fastened it to 145 flywheel, and the engine is in snuggly. Connected the wires, and startermotor is good, the engine turns.
What is missing now is the part that goes from exhaust manifold to the leg. But i expect it to be able to make it myself from stainless steel and some rubber hosing by saturday.

Thanks for answering my questions so far.
When its ready, i'll put up some pictures and tell you how the boat runs on water.
 
re: "What is missing now is the part that goes from exhaust manifold to the leg. But i expect it to be able to make it myself from stainless steel and some rubber hosing by saturday."

I hope what you really mean is... exhaust ELBOW to the leg. Also... there should be a cast "pipe" from the inside of the transom shield at the very bottom upwards. On a "V" engine it looks like a "Y" and on an inline, half a "Y".
 
I meant that part what connects to the exhaust on engine with a rubber band, and then connects to the transom.
Since it was not present, and the AQ130 has a different kind of exhaust, i need to make one myself.
 

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You can and they do bolt up. 145 motor to 130 flywheel cover ...

BUT

The 130 is 90degree motor in other words the pistons and block go strait up and down.

The 145 is a slant style motor in other words the motor leans toward the starboard side.


In other words you need more parts.
 
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OK. Got the helmet removed, it was so old and gotten stuck that i just cut it out with an anglegrinder.
Installed the 280, fits nicely.
In the 280 series, there will be several helmets regarding the helmet pin style and the bushing style/size.
Make sure that the "pin" fits the corresponding "bore".


Took the drive coupler from 130, fastened it to 145 flywheel, and the engine is in snuggly.
Did you NOT remove the PDS and replace the bearing????? This is very important!!!!!

Connected the wires, and startermotor is good, the engine turns.
What is missing now is the part that goes from exhaust manifold to the leg.
This part is the "down tube" and it connects the exhaust manifold to the Transom Shield.

But i expect it to be able to make it myself from stainless steel and some rubber hosing by saturday.
Did the 280 system not have this larger down tube?
(example image only)

Volvo-Penta-AQ-120-125-140-Exhaust-Pipe-852972.JPG



Thanks for answering my questions so far.
When its ready, i'll put up some pictures and tell you how the boat runs on water.
Please do. We always like to see the completed project! :D
 
....................

I meant that part what connects to the exhaust on engine with a rubber band, and then connects to the transom.
Since it was not present, and the AQ130 has a different kind of exhaust, i need to make one myself.

The image that you posted is showing a 290 drive.
attachment.php


The 290 transom shield is different, therefor the exhaust outlet is different, therefor the "down tube" is different from what you will be able to use!
 
You can and they do bolt up. 145 motor to 130 flywheel cover ...

BUT

The 130 is 90degree motor in other words the pistons and block go strait up and down.

The 145 is a slant style motor in other words the motor leans toward the starboard side.


In other words you need more parts.

I agree with Bob!


.
 
OK, a bit of an update.

The engine slant was no problem, loosened the flywheelcover from transom, cleaned the rubber rings, they were ok, turned the motor to its designated degree and fastened the pressure ring anew.

Made the new exhaust pipe, works great. Took it for a testrun: max RPM 4400, speed 46km/h. Normal cruising at 3900 and 39km/h.
Engine temp ok, at green the whole time.

But... all's not good. The impeller i have now has 2 blades damaged, ordered a new one from Sweden, part nr. 15575, diameter 57,1 mm, width 31,5 mm. And the new is just a tad too small, does'nt work in this housing. The oldone is worn, and about 58-59 diameter, and about 32 in width.
Cant figure out where is the problem... Maybe the whole pump is switched at some point, don't know the history of the engine.

Any ideas?
 
See if part was superceded. Might need to order entire pump housing kit! Are the water pumps the same on the aq250 & the aq280? Part #s same?
 
Update, got a new impeller from Germany, works great, new sparkplugs, also great.
Had a little hickup with the ignition coil, or so i think. Engine just died on me, because the old impeller broke and it got a bit too warm (i turned the engine off). After replacing the impeller, had no spark on plugs. Checked everything, did a manual test on all electrics, and got it running again after about 30 mins. I think the fault is in ignition coil, when heating up, gets a short or something. When cooling again, works.


So my question now: cant find anywhere what type (part nr.) of a new ignnition coil should i search for.
The oldone might not even be original, no writings on it.
 
Get a ballast resistor and put it in the power to the coil and see how she runs. If your running points be sure and set the dwell around 62 degrees and then set the base timing at 4 degrees BTDC. Allways check the timing after adjusting the points.
 
Update, got a new impeller from Germany, works great, new sparkplugs, also great.
Had a little hickup with the ignition coil, or so i think. Engine just died on me, because the old impeller broke and it got a bit too warm (i turned the engine off). After replacing the impeller, had no spark on plugs. Checked everything, did a manual test on all electrics, and got it running again after about 30 mins. I think the fault is in ignition coil, when heating up, gets a short or something. When cooling again, works.


So my question now: cant find anywhere what type (part nr.) of a new ignnition coil should i search for.
The oldone might not even be original, no writings on it.

more likely to be a loose wire.
It's pretty hard to damage a coil.
Add a ballast resistor if you cannot find one in the circuit.
Does your distributer have a condenser mounted on the outside?
Mine got corrosion inbetween the condenser and the aluminum dist housing and without a good ground, the timing moves around.
Check inside dist, the rotor should be spring loaded ( advance weight mechanism.)

Nothing special about the coil, any auto coil that fits and does not have a crack in top will work. I use one from 1968 Mustang to get more horsepower :)


Also why not edit your signature line or profile to let u know where the launch will take place.
 
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Andur, my sincere and friendly requests of you: :D


  1. Create a ME.com Signature for yourself that includes your boat info and your area on the planet.
  2. Use the "insert image" icon for posting photos so that we do not need to download them in order to view them.
  3. Post a photo(s) along with your question(s)..... it will better help us understand the question.


As for Ignition Advance..... please take heed of what Kim said in post #21...... and that is to always check the Progressive and Total Advance regardless of what the BASE or Initial Advance is.







.
 
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Any cheap dwell/tach will work just fine. My AQ131 also had a overheating coil I added a ballast resistor to coil posative and it did change the dwell angle. My point gap is slightly under .016 inches about .4 mm and at 60 degrees on the dwell meter. Start the motor and feel the coil it should only get warm after running about five minutes. Your points will last alot longer also and I dont see much if any difference on the open air spark gap test. It will still give you a nice jolt if you get to close to the spark gap tester.
 
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