First, in order to help you best, we need the exact model. I am guessing is is an MFS3.5B. Secondly, why did you pay the dealer a second time, when he was unable to work on the motor? Thirdly, you must have a tach in order to adjust the idle speed.
Since the throttle plate is advanced above idle, that is why the throttle stop screw is not seated. You will need to determine why the throttle is so high. For example, if the choke is even partially on, that adds throttle. Likewise, if you did not reassemble the two gaskets and insulator between the carb and the intake, that could throw off the geometry. Likewise, if the throttle drum and or throttle opener is not assembled correctly, that could cause a problem. If you neglected to install one of the spacer collars, that could also goof things up. If the throttle plats was removed and reinstalled on the shaft, it could mis-aligned as well. And those types of things are why it requires training to be an outboard mechanic. If you could post a couple of pics of the setup, we might be able to identify what is wrong.
Odds are that you were not running the carb dry at the end of every day it was used. That would allow crud to accumulate in the carb. It is quite a common issue. Modern, EPA-rated 4-stroke outboards of all sizes and manufacturers run very lean, so the fuel systems must be maintained in spotless condition, or they will be too lean to work well. I'm not sure about how a viton float valve needle could become "scratched", so I don't really know what the mechanic was referring to. What method did he use to clean the carb in the first place? What were the symptoms after the technician worked on the motor?
Motor for motor, Tohatsu makes the most outboards of any manufacturer. Think of it: every Nissan, Evinrude 20 and below, Mercury 30 and below, are all Tohatsu motors. Their reliability is by far the best in the business. So I guess you hate Nissan, Evinrude/Johnson, and Mercury as well. Maybe you need to get a Torqeedo.