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hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

actualley I did attempt to seal the pod I 5200ed pieces of aluminum
to all the extra engine holes and the 1/2" drain also sealed all around outside to transome water still seaped in probablley though where the lid bolts to the top of pod. so I had to remove 1/2" drain didn't want water trapped in there and rot pod from inside out.remember this is mainly a saltwater vessel.

I think the water was getting in at launch ramp where the center of gravity was negative (vessel's bow tilted up forcing stern much lower) the lid was about 4inches from water surface so it must be splashing in though bottom of lid.

the laundry detergent bottles have taken up space where water would normalley be proballey about 80% and has helped vessels WOT stability.

my next attempt to increase this 80% to further reduce water in the pod will be a a inflatable ball used as a bladder or smaller (better positioned) detergent bottles if I can get bottles to fit and fill the pod then maybe poured in foam inside bottles would be better than air and provide some floatation.

the vessels stern drive had a large diameter/ w/a low pitch prop not sure of exact size I think because of vessels shape.

how much speed will I lose w/ a 17 pitch prop? or will I gain RPM thus gain speed?

will a 15.25 diameter be to wide?
Thanks TB
 
can I pour the foam into the bottles, I dont water saltwater absorbed into foam.

redoing aft./middle deck how many lbs will it take?

More bad news all the stringer (which is actualley a Z brakect revitos are broken. will fab another Z brakect and splice to opposit side an revito to hump. Starcraft used very small revitos should I go up to 1/4" revltos?

also did I ruin the prop.?
TB
 

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Not sure on the rivets. I don't much experience with aluminum hills.

the prop is quite possibly out of balance.

The polyurethane foam foam is closed cell and should not absorb sea water. The folks at US Composites are extremely helpful. Give them a call, tell them your application and the volume you need to fill and they'll tell you the exact product and amount to get.
 
here's the new prop
http://www.ebay.com/itm/352139146948

hopefulley the reduced pitch and increased diameter will increase my RPM and speed.

current prop. 14.25 pitch 21
new prop 14.5 pitch 19

will try to heat and bend ruined prop then stow as a spare.

why are aluminum props painted to show the wear when they contach anything?
 
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took boat out again in GOM water was kindof ruff hull took a good beating for a couple days
good news the riveted stringers heldup.

bad news is after the third repair of lower unit seals there is water in oil again. don't know what to do about the water in oil. after third redo I tested the repair cruised around about 1 hour then checked oil seamed fine looked like oil, now after my last GOM trip it leaks . paid a marine mechanic just over $200. to fix this either the mechanic is totally incompetent or has lied about putting in new seals.

the oil isn't as milkie this time it's more greyish but still definitely water in oil.

the second day of boating the engine seamed to be running kindof weak as if it was in shallow water sucking up sand however I was in 4' at the time.

more bad news a rat has moved into my under deck it's scattering styrofoam everywhere.

think I'll plug bilge and flood it out before it causes damage. will also set some rat traps and maybe my rat bucket trap.

more bad news boat has been taken over w/ fire ants, been sparying but it's impossible to kill all of them.

very disappointed since this is the best time of year to cruise/fish the Gulf
 

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Which seals have been done in the lower unit? I apologize but I lost track of what has been done. Did the mechanic do only the prop shaft or did he also install new drive seals and shift rod seals?

KJ
 
I thought the prop shaft seals where leaking so I purchased them (this when I was planning to swap in my self) then decided to have a real mechanic do all the seals and water pump.

the prop shaft seals weren't leaking it was the under water pump seals that where leaking remember he put in the wronge size seals then redid.
he claims he applied air pressure overnight and it held well it still leaked now after the third redo he didn't even give an explaination he just mumbled something I couldn't undersand.

I always ask for the old parts replaced didn't get anything except a dented waterpump impeller so I don't know what seals where replaced initialley he said he was going to replace all LU seals and the oil fill/drain nylon washers so only he knows what seals where replaced.

I called a different boat mechanic said he charges 3 hours labor at $95. per hour and $150. for seals seams overpriced by 2 times.

I'm at a lose this mechanic came recommended. if it's not hurricanes and windy conditions ruining this years season it's the oil in water.
 
Hmmm, sounds like this guy might be a little sketchy. So he claims to have replaced the driveshaft and prop shaft seals. Was anything at all said about the shift rod seals? Those are easy to overlook and they will harden over time and can definitely be a source of water intrusion. Also, what is the condition of the driveshaft? If there are grooves on the shaft surface the new seals will go bad quickly.

A complete gearcase resealing kit is only $71 and does EVERYTHING: http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC5006373

What would this new mechanic charge if you brought him the lower unit and he installed this complete kit.....along with both pressure and vacuum testing. Do any of the shops in your area have reduced 'winter labor rates'? Since you're on the coast I doubt it, but it's worth asking.

If your gears are fine and this is just a matter of a seal problem I don't see a need to buy an entire reman'd lower unit.

KJ
 
yes this Guy has ruined two trips to the GOM for me and alot of my time.

I live 3.5 hours from the Gulf middle of Alabama there aren't many boat repair places here like 4 total.

removing the LU is something I need to learn how to myself been watching a few Y-tube vids have yet to see the two piece driveshaft that I believe this engine has will the LU be removed same as the one piece DS do?

I know it's risky but I found this add mite be a way for me to watch observe and learn Which I can't do at a regular shop. Plus I may have meet this man a few years ago on the road he was real interested in the starcraft for him doing restoration work to. he had a sign on his truck and I got his now misplaced card.

the add is less than a day old so this new Guy maybe hardup. he has a 850 area code so he's from the panhandle of FL this is my boating area.

Kevin thanks for all you'r as usual excellent advice


https://montgomery.craigslist.org/mas/d/mobile-marine-service-for-all/6343251406.html
 
I don't know about excellent but I'm happy to offer advice for what I do know.

Pulling a lower unit isn't hard. Detach the shift rod from the linkage under the carbs, remove 4 bolts under the cavitation plate and 2 more at the trim tab above the prop and it will slide right off. I would suggest putting a floor jack underneath it then when the bolts are loosen, gradually let the jack down to lower the LU from the mid-section.

KJ
 
Being able to change the impeller is something every boat owner needs to learn. Resealing the gearbox is not much more difficult there are videos on replacing the seals. Some sheet metal screws and a vice grips is all you need to pull the seals and a pipe the correct size works good for installing the seals. First thing is get a gearbox pressure tester and pull the gearbox. Put no more than 8 PSI in the drained gearbox and then spray soapy water on the seals to find out where it is leaking. With the water pump off put it in gear and spin the driveshaft the pressure test works best when the shafts are moving. Spin the prop and shift gears a bunch of times to check the shift shaft seal. Once it passes the pressure test then perform a vacuum test. What can happen if the motor is sitting in the hot sun it builds up pressure and leaks out the seal/s then when you submerge it in water it goes into a vacuum and as the shafts spin it pulls in water. That is the reason for back to back seals take your time and it can easily be done correctly. I agree be careful when unbolting it and yes tie it up with a rope to catch it when she decides to drop it can break your foot or worse break the gearbox.
 
Great advice kimcrwbr1.

Your explanation of alternating positive and negative pressures inside the gearcase made me think of a question for TheBrain. Have you replaced the nylon washers that are used on the top and bottom fill plugs on the gearcase?

Those washers can go bad and will allow leaks around the plugs. I've heard of people that never re-use them and always install new washers every time the plugs are removed. That might be excessive, but the main point is to make sure that we might not be questioning shaft seals when the problem could just be nylon washers.

KJ
 
I guess it's true water and oil don't mix here's another image of the oil/water mixture.

notice the oil separate from greyish stuff. looks like something is leaking right? if it weren't leaking I wouldn't see any greish stuff correct?
Thanks TB
 

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yes the man said /mumbled the fill/drain nylon washers where replaced I never get a definative answer from this Guy.

these nylon washers can be easily checked for cracks correct. from what I understand these nylon washers will crack easy when snugged to much.

I've been informed these washers orginalley where rubber and created lots of leaks then BRP reenineered to a nylon washer. is this true or false?

additionalley do both fill/drain bolts have magnets to collect gindings?

where can I get a preasure tester? I saw the preasure tester he was using looked like he attached the oil fill pump fitting into the PT then pumped it up.

I really need to be on the GOM right now last week was to windy right now is perfect weather absolutely zero wind.
Thanks TB
 
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If you have any doubts just replace the washers. You can buy bulk for cheap and should be incorparated in gearoil changes and least every other year.
 
TheBrain said:
yes the man said /mumbled the fill/drain nylon washers where replaced I never get a definative answer from this Guy.

these nylon washers can be easily checked for cracks correct. from what I understand these nylon washers will crack easy when snugged to much.

I've been informed these washers orginalley where rubber and created lots of leaks then BRP reenineered to a nylon washer. is this true or false?

additionalley do both fill/drain bolts have magnets to collect gindings?

where can I get a preasure tester? I saw the preasure tester he was using looked like he attached the oil fill pump fitting into the PT then pumped it up.

I really need to be on the GOM right now last week was to windy right now is perfect weather absolutely zero wind.
Thanks TB
Click to expand...
They used to use fiber type washers but the nylon ones work alot better. I use a vise grip and a large screwdriver to get them nice and snug.
 
How much water it it taking on? If it is just a few drops I would just go fishing as long as the water is not left in there for long periods it wont hurt anything. Let it sit a day in the down position and then see how much comes out. I keep a oil can with gear oil in it and after you bottom drain the water just top it off in the vent on top.
 
The main thing is the grey stuff could be another issue, Water normally looks like air bubbles in the gearoil. I would say just get the washers and change the gearoil. Take it out for a good run and then wait a day and bottom drain it to good oil. Look close for metal shavings. You may be freaking over nothing.
 
OK I'll drain all the oil, I don't know how much water is getting into gear case.
will the air bubbles stay bubbles?

where can I get a preasure tester?

I think I got ripped off at the boat store gave $13.99 for a quart of Johnson/Evinrude gear oil I think the case takes a tad over one quart. so I purchased two quarts. can I use the quicksilver
LU gear oil at Walmart for $9. a quart? like gear oil is gear oil correct just so it's 90 weight correct? or some other LU oil from Academy sporting goods they have a nice selection of boating stuff.

also the same boat store wanted $1.50 for each nylon washer ( they know there the only place in town that has a parts dept. w/ stuff on hand).

as far as the nylon washers I use a large screw driver and just snug like a oil plug on the car not to much tightening just snugging to prevent cracking washer..
Thanks TB
 

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A boat is a hole in the water you pour money into. Use high quality outboard gear oil only it is designed not to lose viscosity with some water intrusion. Regular 90 weight will also foam up with the high rpm of the gears. With a 175hp engine you will burn 30 dollars of fuel on a good run. You will not crack the washer I tighten them so you cannot loosen them with just a screwdriver. thats hand tight and give it a tug you dont want to strip the threads.
 
Update drained LU oil initial drain was milkie then turned to mostly oil.

I didn’t observe any air bubbles however I didn’t stand there that long (we are infested w/ fire ants from hell).

Second observation was no metal particals on either oil fill and drain bolts just dark grey sludge on top plug.

I hope this is good news maybe just a slite leak. I’d like to use vessel a couple more GOM trips before this apparent leak is sealed correctly.
TB
 

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TheBrain said:
will the air bubbles stay bubbles?

where can I get a preasure tester?

can I use the quicksilver
LU gear oil at Walmart for $9. a quart? like gear oil is gear oil correct just so it's 90 weight correct?

also the same boat store wanted $1.50 for each nylon washer ( they know there the only place in town that has a parts dept. w/ stuff on hand).

as far as the nylon washers I use a large screw driver and just snug like a oil plug on the car not to much tightening just snugging to prevent cracking washer..
Thanks TB
Click to expand...
Bubbles should stay suspended for a while following use. They will eventually work their way out if the engine sets for a long time.

You could make a pressure tester. I'm not quite sure where you could buy one.

IF (big if) you use Quicksilver, it has to be the bottle with the yellow stripe "High Performance Gear Lube" that is designed for engines 75+HP. The Premium stuff won't work.

$1.50 each is pretty safe insurance to know you have the exact, correct washer. And yes, you can torque those down pretty good so don't worry about being too gentle.

How exactly are you filling the gearcase? You should be using a pump like the one below and filling from the bottom plug location. If you're already doing this that's great, but in case you aren't this is the proper procedure. Connect the pump outlet to the drain plug hole then insert the intake tube into your gear oil bottle. With the top (vent screw) removed pump in gear lube until it flows out the top. Insert the top screw then remove the pump fitting and insert bottom drain screw.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SeaSense-Lower-Unit-Lube-Pump/16781961
gear oil pump.JPG

KJ
 
Was that pitcher clean when you started? that looks like alot of water in the bottom. Just let it sit a day or two the water should all settle to the bottom. What do the old washers look like? Are they hard to take out?
 
kevinj said:
Bubbles should stay suspended for a while following use. They will eventually work their way out if the engine sets for a long time.

You could make a pressure tester. I'm not quite sure where you could buy one.

IF (big if) you use Quicksilver, it has to be the bottle with the yellow stripe "High Performance Gear Lube" that is designed for engines 75+HP. The Premium stuff won't work.

$1.50 each is pretty safe insurance to know you have the exact, correct washer. And yes, you can torque those down pretty good so don't worry about being too gentle.

How exactly are you filling the gearcase? You should be using a pump like the one below and filling from the bottom plug location. If you're already doing this that's great, but in case you aren't this is the proper procedure. Connect the pump outlet to the drain plug hole then insert the intake tube into your gear oil bottle. With the top (vent screw) removed pump in gear lube until it flows out the top. Insert the top screw then remove the pump fitting and insert bottom drain screw.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SeaSense-Lower-Unit-Lube-Pump/16781961
View attachment 16633

KJ
Click to expand...
yes I fill/pump oil in from bottom untill it comes out top hole.how do you make a pressure tester?

kimcrwbr1 said:
Was that pitcher clean when you started? that looks like alot of water in the bottom. Just let it sit a day or two the water should all settle to the bottom. What do the old washers look like? Are they hard to take out?
Click to expand...
yes the pitcher was clean/empty.

I'll inspect washers and report back.washers weren't hard to take out they stayed attached to both fill/drain bolts and appear intact unbroken.
 
kevinj said:
Bubbles should stay suspended for a while following use. They will eventually work their way out if the engine sets for a long time.

You could make a pressure tester. I'm not quite sure where you could buy one.

IF (big if) you use Quicksilver, it has to be the bottle with the yellow stripe "High Performance Gear Lube" that is designed for engines 75+HP. The Premium stuff won't work.

$1.50 each is pretty safe insurance to know you have the exact, correct washer. And yes, you can torque those down pretty good so don't worry about being too gentle.

How exactly are you filling the gearcase? You should be using a pump like the one below and filling from the bottom plug location. If you're already doing this that's great, but in case you aren't this is the proper procedure. Connect the pump outlet to the drain plug hole then insert the intake tube into your gear oil bottle. With the top (vent screw) removed pump in gear lube until it flows out the top. Insert the top screw then remove the pump fitting and insert bottom drain screw.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SeaSense-Lower-Unit-Lube-Pump/16781961
View attachment 16633

KJ
Click to expand...
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quicksil...75035&wl11=online&wl12=16565456&wl13=&veh=sem
 
Image of water setteled to bottom of container. this is about ten hours of engine running.

Will it be OK to refill w/ oil and run the engine a couple days w/out ruining the LU?

Kim maybe I misunderstood you did you actually want me to tilt engine down for a day then drain the grayish stuff until it turned to oil then just top off oil from top vent hole?

Also can I suck out the oil w/ a turkey bastor (basicalley separating oil/water)and reuse this oil because it will be drained this winter when the LU seals will get replaced?

hows this for presure testing I think it just sucks
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemD...MIt6fJ3Jzw1gIVBgeGCh30lgdnEAQYAiABEgK6G_D_BwE

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html

or can I rent PT from auto store?

if I had a PT I could see if the propshaft seals where leaking w/out removing the LU would I also be able to observe the shift linkage O ring from under carbs?

TB
 

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That will work just remember too much pressure you risk blowing out the seals 8psi is all that is necessary. Spray soapy water on the seals and spin the shafts and shift gears. Remember you need to spin the prop to shift gears. That is way too much water in the oil if it was to freeze you will be buying a new gearbox.
 
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