Logo
FULL SITE MENU

hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

Yes. If the seals were not the proper size there is no way to maintain tight contact against the shaft and housing. Without a tight seal water gets in fast especially when that shaft is rotating at several thousand RPM.

If the seals held 5PSI overnight then I'd say it's probably right this time and you shouldn't have any further issues.

KJ
 
Last edited:
would anyone here were the speedometer and water preassure ports are on this engine?

I would really like speed and preasure guage connected

a image would be nice.
Thanks TB
 

Attachments

  • MY DASH1P.jpg
    MY DASH1P.jpg
    76.9 KB · Views: 78
  • MY SWITCHES 2.jpg
    MY SWITCHES 2.jpg
    59 KB · Views: 64
Last edited:
TheBrain said:
would anyone here were the speedometer and water pressure ports are on this engine?

I would really like speed and preasure guage connected

a image would be nice.
Thanks TB
Click to expand...
Howdy Brain, glad to see you back.

I believe there were differences in the lower units. Some had water pick ups and others didn't. My '96 Evinrude 150 has the performance lower unit and has a water pickup in the tip of the cone on the gear case. The connection for the 1/4" tube that leads to the speedometer is just above the cavitation plate. It is a 90 degree fitting that pushes into the lower unit and points up. I have placed red circles on your original image of your engine to show you where these are located.
J175.jpg

I think my '96 should be pretty similar to yours. I think the Johnson line went pretty much unchanged for several years as the carbureted engines while the Evinrudes advanced as the DI engines. If it's the close I should be be able to snap a picture of my motor once I find the water pressure sender line. I have a water pressure gauge connected but I'm not really sure where the tube connects to it. I'll have to look at mine and get back with you where it connects.

KJ
 
yes that would excellent to see images of both speedo/water preasure ports on upper part of engine.

wha is WP importance if you don't have jackplate?
TB
 
Last edited:
working on dash all gauges work except WP/MPH & trim

I'm installing 10" gps/chartpotter ontop of current dash
my old FF and compass will get installed

next raydar
 

Attachments

  • mydash1.jpg
    mydash1.jpg
    52.9 KB · Views: 62
Last edited:
First time rinsing engine after saltwater use w/ the builtinwater muffs.

I couldn’t find my muffs but needed to rinse engine actuallyI needed to rinse on wensday night down at Orange Bch. This is the first chanceI’ve had to rinse whichis like having saltwater inside hull and engine for twodays I’ve been cruiseing since Monday.

When I had the hose connected to engine then started engineI did not observe any pea from the waterpump (like I usalley do w/ muffs.

hop I didn't ruin the engine


STB

 
TheBrain said:
First time rinsing engine after saltwater use w/ the built-in water muffs.

When I had the hose connected to engine then started engineI did not observe any pea from the waterpump (like I usalley do w/ muffs.

hop I didn't ruin the engine


STB
Click to expand...
When you say "built-in muffs" do you mean you were using the flush port? Doesn't that reverse water flow?
 
yes builtin flush port

OK I think I understand why it wasn't peaing because the garden hose was covering the pea hole. I'm kindof used to the pea shoot out the side of OMC OBs not the back.

so it makes no differance if engine is running or not it will get flushed the same?


edit:Taking a close look at the peahole port thestream can be aimed to either side or straight back, think I’ll attempt toadjust pea streams direction.
TB
 
Last edited:
TheBrain said:
Kevin did You Ever findout where the water preasure and speedometerports are on upper part of engine?
Click to expand...
The speedometer pickup is in the nose of the bullet of the lower unit and there is a 3/16" hose fitting just above the cavitation plate that points up. I think there might be a way to snake the speedo tubing down through the steering center section but I couldn't find it. I ended up just running mine down behind it and used industrial strength tape to hold the tube in place.

i'll have to look again on the pressure fitting. There might be a dedicated fitting coming off the water jacket. I'll look tonight and post a pic of mine.

KJ
 
this must be water preasure.

I will look for speedometer pickup is in the nose of the bullet of the lower unit and there is a 3/16" hose fitting just above the cavitation plate that points up.
Thanks


TB
 

Attachments

  • WATER PREASURE OR SPEEDO PORT.jpg
    WATER PREASURE OR SPEEDO PORT.jpg
    75.4 KB · Views: 72
Last edited:
The picture from your starboard head is most likely the supply for the water pressure gauge. The tan wire next to it going into the head is the thermocouple for your temperature overheat warning.
 
why do I need to watch water preasure I don't have a hydrolic jack plate or is it like monitoring cooling sys.?

remember I have two mehcanicale Guages water preasure and speedo the port on the star headmust be the WP
Because the othe port is in lower unit.
And that’s for speedo.

A speedo would be nice I have the guage mounted just need torun a small tube to it

Will automobile vacunm line be good enough?
 
TheBrain said:
why do I need to watch water pressure I don't have a hydraulic jack plate or is it like monitoring cooling sys.?
Click to expand...
Yes, to monitor the cooling system. It's a nice indicator of the health of the water pump in case you run in places where you can pick up water grass or other junk that might block your intake. Also, you get accustomed to the values you see when running under normal conditions. If you start to see the water pressure decrease over time it's a good way to know the water pump needs replaced long before you run into problems.

TheBrain said:
....port on the star head must be the WP Because the other port is in lower unit.....for speedo.
Click to expand...

Exactly, the fitting off the head gives you water pressure and the lower unit is your speedometer pitot tube.

TheBrain said:
Will automobile vacuum line be good enough?
Click to expand...

Sure, vacuum hose is fine but could be pricey if you don't have a bunch laying around. You'll probably need about 25' for each gauge by the time you snake around the motor, along the gunwale, and up to the helm. Also, if the vacuum tubing is very flexible it could get a kink in it that will restrict flow. That won't hurt anything but could give you false readings. I did misquote you earlier, it's 1/4" hose barb fittings, not 3/16".

Something like this 1/4" ID polyethylene tubing from Amazon will work just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UJLZRS/ref=s9_acsd_zgift_hd_bw_b16s8P_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&pf_rd_r=S4EP76SCJFX4YR4FE80C&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=8bcbd87e-6518-5c0e-9d8f-fad814323721&pf_rd_i=16414401

You can probably get the same stuff at your local ACE or True Value hardware store cut to the length you need. The amazon stuff is 12 cents per foot. That single 100' roll would do everything for both your speedo and pressure gauge runs up to the helm and leave you extra.

KJ
 
Kevin this is excellent info thanks the water preasure guagewill be mounted next to the
Johnson diagnostic gauge.

I be looking for speedo connection.

The built-in full sys. Doe’s engine need to be started toflush or is this just a rinses?

I actually have the rubber tubing some was cut but most isstill usable.

Unfortunately I’m redo ing the engine pods keyhole cover soI have a lot of work ahead of me.

Kevin do you know how to remove 3M 5200 water proof gluefrom aluimin?
TB

 
My main wire harness has like three sets of trim wires(red/green/blue) that’s if I remember correctly.

My steering wheel has trim level’s on both sides and binnaclehas a trim button.

Currently only have the binnacles trim button connected.

Remember having controls is new to me I’ve always had atiller in past.

So I’m still learning trimming when holeshotting I think observinga trim gauge
Instead of using the mirror or just turning around to makesure I haven’t trimmed to much will make learning The boat tendancys easier usalley if I trim upto much there’s a

Rooster tail and the engine tone changes and I believe theprop. Loses traction?

I think next shakedown run I will being paying attention totrimming up like how do you power trim up do you like bump it up on/off thebutton and count the bumps?
TB

 
Here is a pic of my water pressure gauge fitting.
waterpressure.jpg

Here is my lower unit. The water pickup is in the nose of the cone and you see the 1/4" hose barb fitting just about the cavitation plate for the speedometer connection.
Speedo.jpg
 
kevinj said:
Here is a pic of my water pressure gauge fitting.
View attachment 15393

Here is my lower unit. The water pickup is in the nose of the cone and you see the 1/4" hose barb fitting just about the cavitation plate for the speedometer connection.
View attachment 15394
Click to expand...
redoing engine POD glue came off easey enough images of progress
thanks for images I 'll e o ifnd the speedo connection.

I just Found out this engine has 3 andoes two external one insidebearing carrier,

I must have overlooked it when I had bearing carrier disassembled/

TB
 

Attachments

  • POD redo1.jpg
    POD redo1.jpg
    89.7 KB · Views: 59
  • POD redo1p.jpg
    POD redo1p.jpg
    96 KB · Views: 57
  • POD redo1pp.jpg
    POD redo1pp.jpg
    92.8 KB · Views: 68
update pod redo is completed vessel is back to shipshape plus I'm getting better bleeding my hydrolic steering. Not removeing engine again
until I obtain the proper sized 25”shaft

proballey E-Tech 225 (if it’s massive sized power head will tiltup into my splashweel)

I'm relocating start battery adding house battery to forth v-birth offsetting aft weight.

how long can extend oil reserver feed tube? I want to extend 20' next to battery. The electrical wire is very long as is.
thanks TB
 

Attachments

  • pod weldedsm.jpg
    pod weldedsm.jpg
    82 KB · Views: 72
  • POD FLOTATION TIDE BOTTLE.jpg
    POD FLOTATION TIDE BOTTLE.jpg
    57.2 KB · Views: 61
  • ENGINE MOUNTED rigged.jpg
    ENGINE MOUNTED rigged.jpg
    77.6 KB · Views: 58
Last edited:
TheBrain said:
update pod redo is completed vessel is back to shipshape......
how long can extend oil reservoir feed tube? I want to extend 20' next to battery. The electrical wire is very long as is.
thanks TB
Click to expand...
Glad you're back on the water. Did the modifications to the pod improve performance or attitude of the hull?

By oil reservoir, do you mean the VRO tank? If so, I would suggesting leaving it as close to the engine as you can. I don't know for certain but I would guess a really long run of oil line could leave room for air pockets and you definitely want that line in good shape.

I'm curious, what's the purpose of the laundry detergent bottles in the pod?

KJ
 
kevinj said:
Glad you're back on the water. Did the modifications to the pod improve performance or attitude of the hull?

By oil reservoir, do you mean the VRO tank? If so, I would suggesting leaving it as close to the engine as you can. I don't know for certain but I would guess a really long run of oil line could leave room for air pockets and you definitely want that line in good shape.

I'm curious, what's the purpose of the laundry detergent bottles in the pod?

KJ
Click to expand...
OK i'll leave 2 stroke oil reservoir in aft deck.

the vessel gets unstable 45-52 knts I intall natachus trim tabs they improved stability at WOT.


"
I'm curious, what's the purpose of the laundry detergent bottles in the pod?"

I just added floatation I'll calculate LBs of later.

I have completely occuppied the inside pod area w/ homemade floation so now the water inside pod has been reduced by 95% thus reduceing overall aft. weight proballey gain 2 knts at wot.

it's hard for me to understand the engineering logic behind designing a pod to takeon water.
 
What does the boat do at 45-52 knots that makes it unstable? Chine walk, porpoising, bow wander?

If you want to permanently fill the pod, try using expanding polyurethane foam. http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html

I've used the stuff from US Composites when I rebuilt a boat to replace old water logged foam between the stringers. It's really easy to use and you can calculate the volume you need and buy close to that amount so you don't waste a bunch. You can call them with the volume and they'll tell you which size product to buy.

KJ
 
kevinj said:
What does the boat do at 45-52 knots that makes it unstable? Chine walk, porpoising, bow wander?

If you want to permanently fill the pod, try using expanding polyurethane foam. http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html

I've used the stuff from US Composites when I rebuilt a boat to replace old water logged foam between the stringers. It's really easy to use and you can calculate the volume you need and buy close to that amount so you don't waste a bunch. You can call them with the volume and they'll tell you which size product to buy.

KJ
Click to expand...
I haven't have enought seat time at WOT the times to difinitively discribe the unstability it's like all three Chine walk (mostely), porpoising(not much) bow wander (when this happens I throttle back).

I've onley been out once since the POD redo didn't test at WOT much.

currentely working on rear diveplateform/reserve floatation builtin.

my plan is to poured in foam outside of each stringer and upward on each freeboard I'll leave the removable white styrofoam inside stringers.

plan on redoing the new floor I installed (that's allready rotten.) w/ 1/8" aluminum sheet from semi truck/trailers sideing the sea deck foam noneslip glue down floor.

also trying to get my new FF GPS combo working right here.http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...improved-GPS-position-fix&p=577147#post577147

Thanks STB
 

Attachments

  • stepping1psm.jpg
    stepping1psm.jpg
    97.4 KB · Views: 74
Last edited:
since lower unit seals where redone boat was unused untill lst weekend of june of Alabamas red snapper season last call (until extended by Trump.

Plan to go boating this weekend checked lower unit oil was grey again.

previous boating trip I barely hit some jettie rocks (lots of boats crowding the dock area) result dinged my new prop

1.could the prop shaft seals been damaged when I hit the rocks?

2.After the redo of LU seals I checked oil it appearedas pure oil,could the mechanic refilled the LU w/ the waterey oil he drained?
Thanks TB
 
Last edited:
update the mechcanic was nice and redid his work I asked him where it was leaking he mubbled the same seals under the water where leaking this after he claimed it was holding preasure overnight, this is the third time.

took boat out cruised/trolled for about 3.5 hours did I few WOT runs (w/ a very light load and about 25 gallons of fuel lighter) the 14.25x21 aluimin prop got her up to 4900 RPM) still not what I was hopeing for 5500.
?1.was the lighter load allowing ening to rev more because w/ full load she reved to 4500RPM?

the good news is after todays shakedowns/cruising the oil was yellow no water penitrationg seals.

the trim tabs are realley helping stabilize the vessel however at WOT I have to apply extra port force to steering wheel.
?2.the steering tab isn't totalley straight, since it's pulling to the starboard then I adjust the steer tad to portside correct?

currentely waiting for the Destin, FL rain to stop the next 10 day forcast is 90% rain thunder storms.
can't wait to reel some big wahoo in.

image of todays splash
Thanks TB
 

Attachments

  • SPLASH2.jpg
    SPLASH2.jpg
    89 KB · Views: 115
Last edited:
Your over propped a 17 pitch should get you up around 5100 WOT rpm loaded. Seal the pod up and drill a couple large hole in the top and fill with pouring foam Give it a good rough sand and then coat the entire thing with fiberglass.
 
Back
Top