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hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

project boat is complete at least the major operating sys are functionale and ship shape.

I plan to drain the bottom end and refill w/ quicksilver 90lower unit.

manuel says more than 2 quarts which is 64oz


edit where this check ball supposed to be mounted its the size of a marbel I'll post image later.
 

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update

First splash attempt.
I say attempt because I overlooked the holes in transom skin, where PO attached a transducer guess glue wasn’t known to him.
I will 5200 and reinstall small screws larger than originals (until I find a fishfinder/GPS w/chart plotter that I like.

My observations
1.The ramp here not real steep but steeper than I’m accustomed to.
my trailer is very low, When boat floats off bunks the top of fenders just submerged.

Van is 3’ away from water, hopefully my Van won’t need to be in or real close to saltwater.
2.the inside of hull has lots of filth (leafs, rat turds ect.) I’ve pressure washed (bow up), used my hands to scoop the poop. Still lots of filth still to much to connect a bilge pump.

I filled the stern (removed bilge plug) 3 times and drained.
Mite have to get a wet vac.to elimitate flith.
3.The Pod filled w/ water, I have some adjusting to do’s for Pod.

4. Johnson did start however it was difficult to build fuel preasure w/ my unvented 6 gallon fuel tank. Tach. Worked fine

5.I think I understand how the control box works. Remember this is my first control box.

Start in neutral shift into gear then continue to push for throttle.

6.I’m using one of the orginale 15 gallon fuel tank’s it’s fill hole in gunwale,

I had to pump fuel about 1/3 the speed of filling theVan or fuel would bounce out.

I do not recommend rustoleum marine topsider paint .


where I this check ball valve susposed to be installed? when I initially removed the cowl it was lieing inside engine area loose.

Where is this checkball normalley located , what is itcalled and whats it’s function? and can I run the engine safely w/out it?


Thanks STB
 

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First shakedown
The boat planes allmost emenideatly at WOT she becameunstable I coundn’t hold her for extended period.
I had a short 2 hour shakedown due to I installed thesteering backwarks, I have corrected this, got luckie had a assistant help w/rebleed sys.


Observations
When changing from nuetrel to forward or reverse there’s aclunk looseness in the shifts.
When I swapped in the new longer control cables I adjustedthe adjuster exactly as the removed short cables.

?1.this clunking can’t be normale how should it normalleyshift?

Mechanic I bumped into at the ramp said it sounded like theJohnson was hitting on all 6, I was concerned w/ a gum /blocked carb. Ruining acylinder.

The Mechanic told he where the engine bolts to the POD thereis a gap and that I should reduce the gap to zero/
?2.what type of wrenk do you Guy’s use to seriously tightenthese engine bolts?

the water line is a tad lower than I antisapated about the same as w/ the IO Merc. I will post images later.
 
First shakedown
The boat planes allmost emenideatly at WOT she becameunstable I coundn’t hold her for extended period.
I had a short 2 hour shakedown due to I installed thesteering backwarks, I have corrected this, got luckie had a assistant help w/rebleed sys.


Observations
When changing from nuetrel to forward or reverse there’s aclunk looseness in the shifts.
When I swapped in the new longer control cables I adjustedthe adjuster exactly as the removed short cables.

?1.this clunking can’t be normale how should it normalleyshift?

Mechanic I bumped into at the ramp said it sounded like theJohnson was hitting on all 6, I was concerned w/ a gum /blocked carb. Ruining acylinder.

The Mechanic told he where the engine bolts to the POD thereis a gap and that I should reduce the gap to zero/
?2.what type of wrenk do you Guy’s use to seriously tightenthese engine bolts?

the water line is a tad lower than I antisapated about the same as w/ the IO Merc. I will post images later.
 

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Results of 3rd shakedown w/ 14 ½” X24” pitch prop.

at WOT 4500RPM at 45 MPH I say MPH because I used my automobile GPSaccelerorometer as a speedo.

Cruising at 2K RPM was 15MPH. idel was like 8MPH (this will my troll speed forthe Wahoo tuna ect.

Please suggest the proper prop diameter and pitch. Hopefully I will get morespeed.

what do you Guy's think is the engineto high?

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=run2wtrim


 
is the 14x21 the same as a 15x17? w/ the correct prop.allowing the engine to 5500RPM will the top speed increase much?

would you happen to know the # of slpines on the johnsons shaft?

what do you think is the engine mouned to high?Thanks
 
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Back to the beginning. I believe the manual refers to that device as a mooring bracket. It's used for holding the motor in its highest position so it is out of the water (salt water). As mentioned I don't like to use it for anything but trim & tilt work. If you trim down with it engaged it will exploded at best or break out the aluminum of the swivel bracket at worst. Very costly repair!
 
very good infor I will try to remember to up before I go down however I won't be boating until I get the correct prop.

still waiting to hear if engin is to high
 
I have a 24' Sea Hunt Triton CC with a 2004 225 on it. I run a 15 x 17 and the WOT RPMs are 5800.
That boat you have is a big boat (looks to be) and I would think you need a prop in the same close range to the 15 x 17.
 
yes my boat is big 22' length 96" beam however the hull w/ extra knee brace and POD is just under 1700LBs

is you suggestion of 15X17 for a big boat even if it's lite?

I'm shooting for 5500RPM at WOT, maybe 15X18 would be closer?

what is you'r top speed?

still waiting to hear if engine is mounted to high?


TB
 
Based on your Youtube video it looks like your engine might be a little too low. It seemed as though the cavitation plate was UNDER water when you were on plane. The plate should be ON TOP of the water at planing speed. I would suggest moving the motor up one set of bolt holes on your pod and do another sea test. A motor that's too deep will create more drag and decrease WOT RPM. Also, a low motor that's plowing the water can make the boat act 'unstable' as you described.

KJ
 
I believe the motor may be low on the bracket also. Since the motor is behind the boat it can be run higher all things being equal. The water will rise as it leaves the back of the boat. If the engine sees clean water (no speedo pick, transducer, etc.) then the motor can run higher than if it was just on a transom. You will have to do a lot more testing to decide the proper height, prop and setup. It won't be a 14 1/2" X 24" prop for sure. That sounds like a Raker which is a bass boat prop. You may end up shooting for something less than top RPMs. 5000 to 5200. This boat being a weight forward boat it is not going to be hard to plane. Top end will not be where you spend the majority of your time. Go for cruise & economy. The type of prop you select (aluminum, SS, three blade, four blade, cupped, etc.) will determine your running height.
 
t2stroke said:
I believe the motor may be low on the bracket also. Since the motor is behind the boat it can be run higher all things being equal. The water will rise as it leaves the back of the boat.
Click to expand...
That was the explanation I forgot to mention. Just like a bass boat you've now mounted your engine on a setback and as t2stroke said, the water rises behind the transom. With the engine as far back as you mounted it there's probably a 2" difference on engine height that if it were mounted directly to the transom.

Definitely raise the motor higher by one set of bolt holes and do another test. Either use your GoPro camera or have a friend watch the motor height as you drive. You'll know the result within 30 seconds of driving on plane. If the top of the cavitation plate is visible while at plane and at ideal trim then it's at the right height. If the plate is still buried, go back to the ramp and move up another set of holes. You can pretty easily do this work at the ramp with a small hydraulic floor jack so you don't have to drive all the way home. Lower the motor all the way while on the trailer then carefully put the jack under the skeg and go up until it's snug. Remove the top bolts that are in fixed holes then loosen the bolts in the slotted holes. Gently raise with the jack until the next set of holes are lined up, reinstall bolts, torque them down, then go for your next test ride.

KJ
 
t2stroke said:
I believe the motor may be low on the bracket also. Since the motor is behind the boat it can be run higher all things being equal. The water will rise as it leaves the back of the boat. If the engine sees clean water (no speedo pick, transducer, etc.) then the motor can run higher than if it was just on a transom. You will have to do a lot more testing to decide the proper height, prop and setup. It won't be a 14 1/2" X 24" prop for sure. That sounds like a Raker which is a bass boat prop. You may end up shooting for something less than top RPMs. 5000 to 5200. This boat being a weight forward boat it is not going to be hard to plane. Top end will not be where you spend the majority of your time. Go for cruise & economy. The type of prop you select (aluminum, SS, three blade, four blade, cupped, etc.) will determine your running height.
Click to expand...
yes Sir you are correct the donor boat was a bass boat.

I was informed to shoot for 5500RPMs at WOT, you are laso correct about the small % of time spent at WOT main purpose is cruisng/trolling. it planes rather quickly.

would a cavitation plate hydrofoil improve planeing and handleing ? same ? w/stationay trim tabs ?
Thanks STB
 
w/ one engine must I use a right rotating prop.?or will a counterrotation left turning prop work?

I think I’ll try a stainless steel 14 3/4” X 21 pitch what do you Guy’sthink?




 
TheBrain said:
yes Sir you are correct the donor boat was a bass boat.

I was informed to shoot for 5500RPMs at WOT, you are laso correct about the small % of time spent at WOT main purpose is cruisng/trolling. it planes rather quickly.

would a cavitation plate hydrofoil improve planeing and handleing ? same ? w/stationay trim tabs ?
Thanks STB
Click to expand...

5500RPM is correct for max engine speed @ WOT.

If the boat planes quickly, which it seemed to in our youtube video, then I don't think you're over-propped.

Currently, with your motor height too low, a hydrofoil would be immensely HORRIBLE. The hydrofoil would increase drag even further and steering would be a nightmare as the lower unit and hydrofoil would plow the water when making a turn.

Trim tabs could be okay, but those are best suited when you have poor holeshot performance and the boat takes a long time to plane. I don't see that in your boat. Also, for heavy stern drive boats they are nice because you get increased stern lift and the boat rides up out of the water more. Again, I don't really see that behavior in your boat. Overall I don't think trim tabs would benefit you much.

Before you spend anymore money on props or other equipment, do the one thing that is FREE.......get your motor height correct. Once you have the cavitation plate at the right level you can then determine the true baseline performance for the boat/engine combo. If you're still down on WOT RPM at that point, then you could consider a lower pitch prop. Until the motor height is right you're not seeing the true, proper performance of the boat.

KJ
 
You can not run a counter rotation prop without a counter rotation gearcase! It would require you to run off reverse gear to go forward. The gearcase was not designed for that load. No advantage anyway except you might can find CR props cheaper. Won't work in this case.
I agree with poster above you have to get closer to proper setup to find right prop. Don't forget you must have the typical load in the boat that you plan to run. On a large boat like this that can make a hugh difference. Especially fuel load. I think you mentioned you didn't have the fuel tanks all cleaned out or operational. Does the boat have a water tank or head? Extra batteries, even people, etc. Running the boat light will give you a false setup scenario.
 
Actualley the bass boat prop. Is damaged I tried to bend it back into shape w/ heat and cresent wrech however it’s not prefect.

I had a boat mechanic look at it and he said don’t run the engine hard or the prop will sling the lower unit apart, so I need a prop mite as well get one that is closer designed for the larger cruiser hull.

the hull during this last test was liter than when the boat will be used
Ill be adding
house battery 40LB
27 gallons of fuel in 15 gallon primary tank located in port gunwhale it's toward the stern,
2 six gallon tanks located in cuddy. 162LBs
generater located behind helm station 50LBs
2 gallons of 2 stroke oil 12LBs
5 gallons fresh water 35LBs
ice probablley 40LB located in cuddy
extra anchor 10LBs "
rods tackle misc. 20LBs "
snorkeling equip 10LBs "

total extra additionael weight 379 maybe closer to 400LBs
 
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That's a pretty good price for an STS prop. Just make sure the hub is in good shape. For your next trial run get your expected normal load in the boat and raise the engine 1 set of holes. If you get that 21P prop you might be okay on WOT RPM but watch it close.
 
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