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  1. #151

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    I'll apply air pressure and observe propshaft seals if the leak is internal then remove LU for further inspection.

    For right now if propshaft seals are good.
    Will it be OK to refill w/ oil and run the engine a couple days w/out ruining the LU? if yes how many hours can I run engine w/out ruining LU?
    I don't thinks outside temps will anyway near 32 degrees.

    Thanks TB
    Last edited by TheBrain; 10-14-2017 at 11:15 AM.

  2. #152

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    home made air preassure pump I cramed a tube 3/8" inside diameter onto a tire stem and the oil pump fitting.

    pumped a couple times then hear a leak at bottom fill hole the fitting is only finger tight.

    think I'm doing something wrong like maybe iliminate the white oil pump piece?
    TB
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    Last edited by TheBrain; 10-14-2017 at 10:42 PM.

  3. #153

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    I sorted out my air pump contraption the gearcase is holding 10PSI for the last hour.

    how important is a vacuum test?

    will pressure test be good enough?

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Mt. Zion, Illinois,
    Posts
    770

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    Did you turn the prop shaft or drive shaft while performing the pressure test?

    With the amount of water you saw in the oil, I would do the vacuum test just to cover your bases. If it passes the vacuum test then your problem may be as simple as bad washers on the plug and vent screws.

    KJ

  5. #155

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    no I didn't turn the prop shaft or drive shaft while performing the pressure test.

    The mechanic (yes the same Guy) was actually having back surgery when I attempted to contact him I didn't know this untill Monday he was returning calls he has agreed to resolve this leak that was never fixed the first time around.

    he said the vacumn test was just as important as the pressure test. can I make a vacumn tester?

    he also said that all the water can not be completely drained from gear case weep hole.

    now he thinks the spring attached to seal under the water pump needs more tension and there's a possibility the two piece drive shaft could be warped. anyway I'm taking it back to him Monday hopefully he will let me observe at least how to remove the shift rod linkage w/out dropping the SR attachment pin/screw.
    TB

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Mt. Zion, Illinois,
    Posts
    770

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    If you had just recently run the engine it's possible there was still some water in the LU and that could have drained into your jug giving the 'illusion' of contaminated gear oil. Did you see that as you drained it?

    That's good he's willing to tackle it again. I'm not experienced with 2-piece driveshafts so I can't say if that's your potential issue or not.

    You sure can make a vacuum tester. You can use the hose on your LU filling pump and attach it to a brake bleed vacuum pump like this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/Brake-...Kit-69328.html
    You can get these for a reasonable price at Harbor Freight or just about any auto parts store. You'll have to search for the correct negative pressure to use but this little hand pump should get it there. The big thing is once you get it under vacuum let it set to see if there is any leaking, then turn the prop and drive shafts and move the shift rod up and down. Once you learn how to drop the LU you'll see how easily these are done. The idea is that it's possible the seals are holding in static position, but if the shaft surfaces are worn it could allow them to leak when it's moving.

    If the LU passes both vacuum and pressure tests then the culprit has to be the washers......or there's a crack somewhere that only leaks when it's under water. I highly doubt that since your pressure test looks good.

    KJ

  7. #157

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    Quote Originally Posted by kevinj View Post
    If you had just recently run the engine it's possible there was still some water in the LU and that could have drained into your jug giving the 'illusion' of contaminated gear oil. Did you see that as you drained it?

    That's good he's willing to tackle it again. I'm not experienced with 2-piece driveshafts so I can't say if that's your potential issue or not.

    You sure can make a vacuum tester. You can use the hose on your LU filling pump and attach it to a brake bleed vacuum pump like this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/Brake-...Kit-69328.html
    You can get these for a reasonable price at Harbor Freight or just about any auto parts store. You'll have to search for the correct negative pressure to use but this little hand pump should get it there. The big thing is once you get it under vacuum let it set to see if there is any leaking, then turn the prop and drive shafts and move the shift rod up and down. Once you learn how to drop the LU you'll see how easily these are done. The idea is that it's possible the seals are holding in static position, but if the shaft surfaces are worn it could allow them to leak when it's moving.

    If the LU passes both vacuum and pressure tests then the culprit has to be the washers......or there's a crack somewhere that only leaks when it's under water. I highly doubt that since your pressure test looks good.

    KJ
    when initial draining I didn't observe any pure water just the greyish stuff then the oil appeared.

    I may not be letting the engine in the down position long enough for water to drain from GC like when I retrieve engine tilted up I usually continue to tilt up then engage the trailing bracket maybe I should lower after taken out of water?

    I hope the drive shaft isn't warped mechanic says it's hard to tell it DS is warped.will report back after the redo.

    dam I need to be at the GOM right now because overnight temps drop down very quickly in the next few days.

    I have a place to stay down there however I'd prefer to camp so I can be the first to the fishing areas plus putting in is a chore and I'd have to trailer 20 miles then I get lazey and sleep in.

    then the next trip will be at the first freeze mid Nov. for the flounder no camping next trip I'll have to wait for Cobia run in mid march. so I don't plan to ever winterize.

    TB

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Mt. Zion, Illinois,
    Posts
    770

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    Quote Originally Posted by TheBrain View Post
    when initial draining I didn't observe any pure water just the greyish stuff then the oil appeared.

    I may not be letting the engine in the down position long enough for water to drain from GC like when I retrieve engine tilted up I usually continue to tilt up then engage the trailing bracket maybe I should lower after taken out of water?

    then the next trip will be at the first freeze mid Nov. for the flounder no camping next trip I'll have to wait for Cobia run in mid march. so I don't plan to ever winterize.

    TB
    Okay, sounds like you didn't have draining water get in the oil.

    Its possible the greyish stuff was previously contaminated oil (as the mechanic mentioned) that never got cleaned out after he re-sealed the LU. It's also possible the previous owner used gear oil other than BRP HPF that sludge was remnants of it? Dunno.

    It's a good practice to tilt the motor down after leaving the water and let all the water come out of the exhaust. This is especially important in freezing conditions. you should always store your outboard in the down position so all water fully drains and has no opportunity to freeze in any passage.

  9. #159

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    how long can I wait before I rinse the saltwater out of engine like flushing?

    more bad news about broken engine pieces now the engine trim buttom is jammed on in the lowering position.

    I circle the part.

    cruised the GOM for a day kindof windy plus I wasn't 100% physicale maybe 60% (spent two days tuning up the Van. and tweaking vessel/trailer, was really to tried to go boating.

    scared to check oil.
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    Last edited by TheBrain; 10-26-2017 at 07:01 AM.

  10. #160

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    Update few images.
    Finished the physical hardware of the secondary bilge sys. The 1500 Rule. Installed the discharge tube same height as the primary bilge, I had intentions to clock the primary auto matic floated switched 750GPH.

    installed 2 additonale rockect launchers will use for the extra large net and a smaller bait sabkie rod.
    Finialley my fourth season w/ the cruiser. Just got around to a helms station cozy/drink holder if you only knew how much drinks where spilled not a lot some it basicalley a piece of lawn chair vinale straoe rolled up and rivoted into place.

    The thisnít a bottom of the drink holder so the cuddies door will remain open during use.

    Also started to mount my fish beater until the crumie harbor freight whole saw mineral took a dump.
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  11. #161

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    few more
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  12. #162

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    think I will connect garden hose and fire up the OB. is it a good idead to let her run for a few minutes

    here's the cup holder I made
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    Last edited by TheBrain; 04-03-2018 at 09:19 PM.

  13. #163

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    Doeís my engine have a fuel fliter

    I've been researching and read the manuel also I don't see a fliter on the Johnson

    Thanks for any advice
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  14. #164
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    tennessee
    Posts
    2,997

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    Remove the air silencer cover it on bottom of fuel bracket. It just a mesh filter.
    Pappys Sales and Service
    Owner and Factory Certified Technician
    Former racer KDBA (Kentucky Drag Boat Association)

  15. #165

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    OK I look for it. thanks for excellent advice as usale.

    I've been reluctant to address any fuel related issuse it's just a nasty job that has to be sorted out properly.

    current issue unable to build pressure in long saddle 15 gallon aluminium, suspect a cracked pickup but will also swap new anti syphin backflow checkball valve (I have sean old valves get varnished w/ rotten fuel causing it ti stick) and new fuel line up to water/fuel separter then to primary/secondary fuel tanks.

    additionally the fuel vent though hull is unclogged and fuel tank fills normally.
    2004 Johnson 175HP carbed 2 stroke.

    where/how can fumes for external fuel tanks be tested/inspected?

    the current prop I have 14,25x19 allows the engine to rev way up to 6200RPM will this high RPM ruin the engine? I have been just backing it down on the throttle.
    I dinged the 14.25X21 which I've recently bent back I think this could be the prefect size if I remember correctly I hit yet didn't exceed the the desired 5500RPM
    TB

  16. #166

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    Cruised the Mobile Bay and the GOM for a few days.finalley beautiful weather w/ 2 issues one the engine 2 the extra alge in the water ruined sport fishing.

    Actually I didnít run the engine much at all because the waterpump discharge directional piece either fell off or someone thought they needed it more than I did.

    Result water not peaing but pouring out also the water temp red light was on I was not in a good mode after traveling 220 miles to find out I could possibly over heat the engine.

    I rigged what I could a garden hose male and a piece of hose squeezed in hope of minimizes discharge.

    At retrieval I lifted the cowl and found the tube for watertemp at the cylinder head that was broken (maybe from not properly reinstalling cowl correctly caused this).

    Main question can I continue w/ my homemade discharge tube?
    Thanks TB
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