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  1. #151

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    I'll apply air pressure and observe propshaft seals if the leak is internal then remove LU for further inspection.

    For right now if propshaft seals are good.
    Will it be OK to refill w/ oil and run the engine a couple days w/out ruining the LU? if yes how many hours can I run engine w/out ruining LU?
    I don't thinks outside temps will anyway near 32 degrees.

    Thanks TB
    Last edited by TheBrain; 10-14-2017 at 12:15 PM.

  2. #152

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    home made air preassure pump I cramed a tube 3/8" inside diameter onto a tire stem and the oil pump fitting.

    pumped a couple times then hear a leak at bottom fill hole the fitting is only finger tight.

    think I'm doing something wrong like maybe iliminate the white oil pump piece?
    TB
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    Last edited by TheBrain; 10-14-2017 at 11:42 PM.

  3. #153

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    I sorted out my air pump contraption the gearcase is holding 10PSI for the last hour.

    how important is a vacuum test?

    will pressure test be good enough?

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Mt. Zion, Illinois,
    Posts
    509

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    Did you turn the prop shaft or drive shaft while performing the pressure test?

    With the amount of water you saw in the oil, I would do the vacuum test just to cover your bases. If it passes the vacuum test then your problem may be as simple as bad washers on the plug and vent screws.

    KJ

  5. #155

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    no I didn't turn the prop shaft or drive shaft while performing the pressure test.

    The mechanic (yes the same Guy) was actually having back surgery when I attempted to contact him I didn't know this untill Monday he was returning calls he has agreed to resolve this leak that was never fixed the first time around.

    he said the vacumn test was just as important as the pressure test. can I make a vacumn tester?

    he also said that all the water can not be completely drained from gear case weep hole.

    now he thinks the spring attached to seal under the water pump needs more tension and there's a possibility the two piece drive shaft could be warped. anyway I'm taking it back to him Monday hopefully he will let me observe at least how to remove the shift rod linkage w/out dropping the SR attachment pin/screw.
    TB

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Mt. Zion, Illinois,
    Posts
    509

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    If you had just recently run the engine it's possible there was still some water in the LU and that could have drained into your jug giving the 'illusion' of contaminated gear oil. Did you see that as you drained it?

    That's good he's willing to tackle it again. I'm not experienced with 2-piece driveshafts so I can't say if that's your potential issue or not.

    You sure can make a vacuum tester. You can use the hose on your LU filling pump and attach it to a brake bleed vacuum pump like this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/Brake-...Kit-69328.html
    You can get these for a reasonable price at Harbor Freight or just about any auto parts store. You'll have to search for the correct negative pressure to use but this little hand pump should get it there. The big thing is once you get it under vacuum let it set to see if there is any leaking, then turn the prop and drive shafts and move the shift rod up and down. Once you learn how to drop the LU you'll see how easily these are done. The idea is that it's possible the seals are holding in static position, but if the shaft surfaces are worn it could allow them to leak when it's moving.

    If the LU passes both vacuum and pressure tests then the culprit has to be the washers......or there's a crack somewhere that only leaks when it's under water. I highly doubt that since your pressure test looks good.

    KJ

  7. #157

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    Quote Originally Posted by kevinj View Post
    If you had just recently run the engine it's possible there was still some water in the LU and that could have drained into your jug giving the 'illusion' of contaminated gear oil. Did you see that as you drained it?

    That's good he's willing to tackle it again. I'm not experienced with 2-piece driveshafts so I can't say if that's your potential issue or not.

    You sure can make a vacuum tester. You can use the hose on your LU filling pump and attach it to a brake bleed vacuum pump like this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/Brake-...Kit-69328.html
    You can get these for a reasonable price at Harbor Freight or just about any auto parts store. You'll have to search for the correct negative pressure to use but this little hand pump should get it there. The big thing is once you get it under vacuum let it set to see if there is any leaking, then turn the prop and drive shafts and move the shift rod up and down. Once you learn how to drop the LU you'll see how easily these are done. The idea is that it's possible the seals are holding in static position, but if the shaft surfaces are worn it could allow them to leak when it's moving.

    If the LU passes both vacuum and pressure tests then the culprit has to be the washers......or there's a crack somewhere that only leaks when it's under water. I highly doubt that since your pressure test looks good.

    KJ
    when initial draining I didn't observe any pure water just the greyish stuff then the oil appeared.

    I may not be letting the engine in the down position long enough for water to drain from GC like when I retrieve engine tilted up I usually continue to tilt up then engage the trailing bracket maybe I should lower after taken out of water?

    I hope the drive shaft isn't warped mechanic says it's hard to tell it DS is warped.will report back after the redo.

    dam I need to be at the GOM right now because overnight temps drop down very quickly in the next few days.

    I have a place to stay down there however I'd prefer to camp so I can be the first to the fishing areas plus putting in is a chore and I'd have to trailer 20 miles then I get lazey and sleep in.

    then the next trip will be at the first freeze mid Nov. for the flounder no camping next trip I'll have to wait for Cobia run in mid march. so I don't plan to ever winterize.

    TB

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Mt. Zion, Illinois,
    Posts
    509

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    Quote Originally Posted by TheBrain View Post
    when initial draining I didn't observe any pure water just the greyish stuff then the oil appeared.

    I may not be letting the engine in the down position long enough for water to drain from GC like when I retrieve engine tilted up I usually continue to tilt up then engage the trailing bracket maybe I should lower after taken out of water?

    then the next trip will be at the first freeze mid Nov. for the flounder no camping next trip I'll have to wait for Cobia run in mid march. so I don't plan to ever winterize.

    TB
    Okay, sounds like you didn't have draining water get in the oil.

    Its possible the greyish stuff was previously contaminated oil (as the mechanic mentioned) that never got cleaned out after he re-sealed the LU. It's also possible the previous owner used gear oil other than BRP HPF that sludge was remnants of it? Dunno.

    It's a good practice to tilt the motor down after leaving the water and let all the water come out of the exhaust. This is especially important in freezing conditions. you should always store your outboard in the down position so all water fully drains and has no opportunity to freeze in any passage.

  9. #159

    Default Re: hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

    how long can I wait before I rinse the saltwater out of engine like flushing?

    more bad news about broken engine pieces now the engine trim buttom is jammed on in the lowering position.

    I circle the part.

    cruised the GOM for a day kindof windy plus I wasn't 100% physicale maybe 60% (spent two days tuning up the Van. and tweaking vessel/trailer, was really to tried to go boating.

    scared to check oil.
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    Last edited by TheBrain; 10-26-2017 at 08:01 AM.

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