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hello I am a new owner of a 2004 Johnson 175HP

I must have ran over fishing line and it ruined the lower units seal. the lower units oil is like milkshake. light brownish.

?.what are these seals referred to as?

a link to a decent place to obtain seal?.

link to a video of swapping this seal.
Thanks
 
I'm not sure about the aftermarket seal you linked to from Ebay. The parts section of this MarineEngine.com is excellent.
Go Here: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/parts.php
Now enter the full, complete model # from the ID plate on the port side transom bracket of your motor.

Doing that will take you to the parts page for your exact engine model. I did a little poking around just looking at '04 175HP engines and it looks like Part# 0334950 is common to all '04 175's. http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0334950 However, you really need to put in your model number as mentioned above to get the exact parts page. Once you're there look for Prop shaft seal or something like that to find the correct one.

KJ
 
yes you are correct about the PN 334950 I think I need two seals?

would you happen to have a repair maneul that could scan this seal swap instructions?

thanks
 
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I've never done this service but the parts list calls for 2 seals. If you're going to replace one you definitely should replace both while you're at it.

I don't have a manual so i can't help you there.
 
I will receive the 2 seals in proballey a week, bought a oil seal pick like tool looks like a pointed screw driver prybar combo.

if it looks to diffault to pick out the old seals I'll remove th e barrier piece.

about to place order for a 14 1/4 x 21 pitch SS prop new for $225. shipped

what do you Guys think the dinged prop reiuned my prop seals?

I am very anixious for a trip to the Gulf.
 
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TheBrain said:
I will receive the 2 seals in proballey a week, bought a oil seal pick like tool looks like a pointed screw driver prybar combo.

if it looks to diffault to pick out the old seals I'll remove th e barrier piece.

about to place order for a 14 1/4 x 21 pitch SS prop new for $225. shipped

what do you Guys think the dinged prop reiuned my prop seals?

I am very anixious for a trip to the Gulf.
Click to expand...
Usually leaking prop seals are either fishing line or age related. Salt water is no friend either and could have made the seals harden too.

How bad was the prop dinged? one possibility is if the blades took a huge whack it's possible the prop shaft got bent. unless you felt a significant vibration when you were doing your trials I'm not sure that is the problem.

$225 isn't bad for a stainless prop, but why not get the $95 SST prop you linked to earlier?

KJ
 
actually I did feel some vibration during the shakedown run.

howver not during acceraltin it happned a idel.

don't think I can pick out the seals looks like I have to remove the two bolts holding the shaft will thebearing housing come out as one piece?


any tips on swapping the seals
 
Someone else will have to jump in here on the seal replacement. That's not something I've done before.

The vibration could have been the bent prop blades. The easiest thing is to clamp some kind of straight edge against the shaft with the prop removed so that the edge sets flat against it. Now turn the shaft by hand and see if it maintains contact with the straight edge over the full rotation. If it does then the shaft is probably just fine and your problem was just a bad prop. If the shaft does wobble on and off the straight edge then you need to think about checking into that before you do any further lower unit work.

KJ
 
I have my seals however I don’t have the BRP gasket makerthat I’ve read needs to be on the outside of the seals,

?1.is there an alternativeor is even required on the prop. Shaft oil seal swape?

there is a round piece covering the seal

?2.I post a image of the seals there is round piece how not pictured how is this round piece removed?





Thanks
 

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TheBrain said:
Results of 4[SUP]th[/SUP] shakedown w/ new aluminum 14 ¼” X 21pitch prop.


  1. WOT RPMs where lower at 4500 than the 14 ½” X 24 pitch which was 4800RPM

2. planed about the same as 24pitch, like right away.

I would like to have another 1KRPM at WOT
So what do I do now?

Thanks STB
Click to expand...

Have you adjusted motor height on the transom so the cavitation plate is on top of the water when running on plane? You REALLY need to the check cavitation plate and make sure it's riding properly before you spend another dime. A motor that's too far in the water will plow terribly creating drag and will eat a bunch of RPM. Looking back at your Youtube video I'd say you have to go up at least 1 bolt hole because even at full trim the plate seems to be plowing a little.

The decreased WOT RPM with the new prop is entirely possible. You said the old prop was bent so probably had blades that were cavitating. That cavitation will let the prop slip and RPM increase but your new one with clean blades is getting a good bite on the water.

KJ
 
actually I reshaped the 24 fairlygood still not perfect, I swapped it
for two reasons
1.it wasn’t prefect
2.it wasn’t a recommended pitch.
3.it was steel I think I’d be betteroff starting w/ aluimin just in case
I hit something it’s better to break a prop than a LU right.
(I’ll probablley switch to SS when Ifeel more comfortalley
Navigating the vessel).

OK I’ll raise the engine one holeand report back w/ video.

 
update corrected finding in post 76

engine at samehight

I had another chance to take the boat out I was actually incorrect about my previous findings.
w/ the new 14 1/4 X 21 aluimin prop I am now able to achieve higher RPMs closer to the 5500desired RPM (haven't completely document exact RPMs)
the higher than 5K RPM w/ new prop was achieved w/ trimming up seamed like the more I trimmed up the higher the RPMs I believe it I trim up to much then the prop. loses it's traction correct.
edit this last shakedown was in saltwater if that has anything to do w/ results.
 
TheBrain said:
...w/ the new 14 1/4 X 21 aluimin prop I am now able to achieve closer to the 5500desired RPM.....achieved w/ trimming up seamed like the more I trimmed up the higher the RPMs I believe it I trim up to much then the prop. loses it's traction correct.
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Exactly correct. Your 5500 RPM should be achieved when the engine is set properly on the transom and trimmed to get the bow of the hull out of the water. Over-trimming as you found puts the prop at an inefficient angle to the water and causes cavitation. As johnnygr pointed out, this can cause damage if you run it like this consistently.
 
I was planning to take another video to make sure I was't trimmng to much.

I did't want to chance The engine overheating so I paid a boat mechanic $200. toinstall a waterpump impeller and lower seals (remember I was getting oil in theLU oil).

I usalley ask for the worn replaced parts, when I picked upthe boat he had a impeller I’m not sure if it even came from my engine, heclaimed the old seals where all dent up I still would have liked to see whatgoe’s in my engine.

Anyway after my first boat ride last week I still have waterin the LU oil.

Now wensday 11-23-16 he won’t answer the phone I reallywanted to go boating today (last kindof warm day) and run the engine dry offuel can I still do this w/ water in oil?


 
TheBrain said:
I did't want to chance The engine overheating so I paid a boat mechanic $200. toinstall a waterpump impeller and lower seals (remember I was getting oil in theLU oil).

Anyway after my first boat ride last week I still have waterin the LU oil.

Now wensday 11-23-16 he won’t answer the phone I reallywanted to go boating today (last kindof warm day) and run the engine dry offuel can I still do this w/ water in oil?
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I wouldn't read too much into him not answering his phone. Maybe he closed the shop for Thanksgiving.

So did you remove the lower drain plug and let gear lube out? Is that how you determined that water got back in?

You don't have to run the engine to empty the carbs. All you have to do is take off the flame arrestor and you'll see a screw on the bottom of each float bowl. Remove the screw to empty the bowls then replace when the fuel stops running out and you're done. If it's going to set all winter you might unit on the muffs with fuel containing stabilizer, fog the engine, then let all the water drain out. Wait until all water is out of the engine then drain the lower unit and refill with new gear oil. When you drain the gear oil put it in a glass/clear jar and see if a layer of water forms on the bottom. If so then the re-seal job he performed has failed. If not, the murky appearance in the oil just might be dispersed air bubbles.

KJ
 
yes Sir I initially removed the top plug nothing came out (like it did the first time I checked the LU fuild)

when I removed The lower plug a grayishfuild came out. Remember I only ran the engine a few hours w/ new LU fuild.

I maynot winterize ever again however the engine will sitfor maybe 5-6 weeks.
Then use as usalle just tried of having carbs rebuilt everyyear.

Thanks for advice on draining carbs is that the same asrunning it dry? Or will there still be a little fuel inside carb and gum upcarb.
 
the mechanic admitted to installing the oversized by water pump seals.

he overnighted the correct size seals and applied 5PSI air preasure overnight he said it held pressure.

so hoppeully it will hold.
 
TheBrain said:
the mechanic admitted to installing the oversized by water pump seals.

he overnighted the correct size seals and applied 5PSI air preasure overnight he said it held pressure.

so hoppeully it will hold.
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Well that's a pretty bad oversight by the mechanic. Glad you got that solved.

KJ
 
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