A little help with my 1957 35hp Big Twin

Just got 2 new coils, points and condensers for my 1957 35hp Evinrude. I took the old coils out without noting where the top black and bottom green wires attach. The picture I took before I removed the second coil shows where the top black wire goes (the ground wire) but the underneath green wire is hidden in the photo. If anyone could tell me where the green wire attaches, I would be grateful.
As a sidenote, Im looking for the external wire harness for this motor, and the simplex controls. Also one of the two front round emblems was missing. In the process of restoring this motor, I needed to sand down the painted (Electric Starting, and Big Twin "stickers"). Looks like I will recreate them in photoShop and have new stickers made as I can't find them anywhere.

Thanks for any help<
Vincent

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-1971-Ev...ash=item36062098bc:g:WJwAAOSwtnpXkY8s&vxp=mtr
You can use these pics to help you connect and route the wires. Pay close attention to the top plug wire marked with the metal band. Screw the wire fully into the coil and slide the boot up then install the coil.

You can tell by the way the old plug wire was bent what coil it goes to.

I was OK with the top and bottom spark plug wires, but from your picture, I was able to see where the two small wires coming off each coil are attached. Thats what I was unable to see with the picture I took. Thanks for helping me clear that up!
For some reason when I put the flywheel back on, the housing where the magnets are located in the flywheel are sticking on the new coils. I don't know if it is better to try and sand down the area of the flywheel where the contact is made, of if I should drill slightly larger mounting holes in the coils so I can set them in a few thousanths of an inch so they stop sticking on the flywheel.
Any other ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks again for the great picture showing the small wires, and sorry I didn't make it more clear which wires I was confused about.
Vincent

good morning you need to line the outer edge of the coil flush with the bosses they are sitting on for proper air gap clearance of the flywheel magnets.

With the age of the motor if you have any wobble up and down on the armature plate you need to replace the mount and ring and use a high quality marine grease.

http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/18-25_EL-START_TO_1972.jpg
This is the basic wiring for your motor minus the cut out switch and start safety switch never apply battery pos to the kill wires for even a split second you will need to replace the coils. To kill the motor your just shorting the two points together.

Oh yea it is real important the flywheel key is in good condition and you torque the flywheel nut to 105 ft lbs before starting the motor. if the key has a crease or if there is wobble in the plate it throws the timing off and you get poor performance. Do you know how to adjust the sync and link? If not will go through that with you when you get to that point. When you rebuild the carb be sure and replace the float or lightly sand that one and dunk it in a cup of clear fuel proof model airplane dope.

There is enough adjustment with the screw holes on the coils you just need to snug the screws lightly and tap on the outer edge of the coil until the boss is flush with the core.

OK Ill try tapping the coils to allow for the necessary clearance, but so far, I haven't been able to find enough flexibility with the size of the mounting holes to avoid contact with the flywheel.
Yes I would appreciate your help with with the sink and link. The key is still "stuck" in the shaft, so the fit is very tight. I haven't taken it out from its location in the slot in the shaft because of its tight fit and unworn appearance.
Thanks again for taking the time to discuss these things with me.

I should tell you that when I originally took the flywheel off, one of the coils was in perfect looking condition while the other looked like it was in a fire. Almost unrecognisable. Of the two opposing magnets on the inside of the flywheel that pass by the coils, one of them has some scaring from what I can imagine is from coming in contact with the one destroyed coil. So unfortunately it looks like I'm not dealing with a normal condition to start with.

Especially if you put new boots on the coils it is a tight fit but you should be able to get the clearance necessary. You must tighten the nut or the magnet will pull the flywheel into the coils. Just push on the coil as you tap with a large screwdriver handle so you dont damage the laminate.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/0580232-580...ash=item236c30715e:g:MTcAAOSwMNxXab6R&vxp=mtr
Your flywheel should look real similar to this it only has magnets on one side yes if it is damaged knock off any high spots with sandpaper but if real bad it may be out of balance as well. The little points access panel on top makes it nice for adjusting the points as well. Start off with exactly .020 point gap and clean the points and feeler guage with acetone or laquer thinner. The access panel makes it nice for timing it after you get it running.