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Tohatsu md50a 3 lights blinking

J

jakob j

Member
Hi guys

Trying this forum as my engine isn't very common in Denmark.

It's a Tohatsu tldi 2001 50 hp. Last year is was running great with no problems. Then this spring when I tried to start it up after the winter it wouldn't start. After a while I found out that I had quite a lot of water in the fuel tank and now also in the engine. I drained the engine completely including the air rail which was unmounted. Afterwards I installed an extra fuel filter with water separator to avoid the same problem in the future. After this repair it ran again but sometimes suffered from high revs when idling. I have expected this to be some smaller air bubbles left in the fuel system.

Additionally the boat was fitted with 2 new batteries and a separator in between. Batteries are these (sorry it's in Danish...): http://www.bauhaus.dk/bil-og-bad/bade-badtilbehor/tilbehor/marinebatteri-dual-12-volt-80-amp.html

Then last week I took the boat out for the first ride this summer. Then when running at full throttle all 3 lights suddently started blinking, I got the warning sound and the engine went idling. I switched it of and started it again. The light went out but when the engine reached approx. 2400 rpm the alarm signal sounded again but without the lights flashing. I went back and took the boat up.

I then read some posts about the problem. I charged both batteries, purchased new spark plugs and went back on the sea again today. The problem went back running on the intended battery setup. Then tried running on both batteries in parallel. Same problem. Then I changed the spark plugs but again without any luck. Then tried to pump the ball during sailing but the problem comes back. It's possible to pump it hard.

I noticed that there is fuel in both the new external fuel filter and the internal under the hood when the problem occurs. I assume that they will run dry if the engine is suffering from insufficient fuel? The engine is charging with 13,88 volts at approx 4000 rpm.

So guys. What to do? Is the engine storing any error codes which could lead me to the problem? Could the problem be related to the water issue I had in the spring?

Right now I don't know where to look for the solution. The dealer is of course a possibility but I will start helping myself before going there :)

BR Jakob
 
Is your engine running hot,what lights are coming on,oil,overheat,low water pressure, The engine is likely going into safe mode to reduce damage. Time to open owners manual.
 
It's not running hot. The impeller and impeller case were changed this winter.

All three lights are blinking at the same time indicating an engine problem according to the owners manual. As you say the engine goes into safe mode reducing rpm to idling. That's all it says except for taking the engine to the dealer.
 
That motor will require that you start with the batteries in parallel. TLDI motors need 1000 cold cranking amps. Each of those batteries is a little over 500. Reset the TPS and read any error codes in diag mode. You will need a Factory service manual in order to do those things. Your dealer can get the proper manual for you.
 
Unfortunately I purchased the 2 batteries before I was aware of the required specs. Before that the boat was running on 2 batteries with following specs: 12V 55Ah 460A(EN). They were mounted in parallel. Therefore I didn't pay too much attention when buying the new batteries as the specs were better.

I will try to make a test with a newly reset tps and batteries in parallel.
 
Haven't been on the water yet but spent some time googling diagnostic procedures. Found out that the ignition should be set to on and key pressed in.
Tried it and after some seconds a beep sounds and the needle on the tach goes to 5. Then another beep and the needle stays at 5. Then it drops to zero.

Does this mean code 55? If so can anybody tell me what this code is about? Thanks.
 
There are pages and pages of TLDI diagnostic information. First, you need to enter diagnostic mode, which is done with the kill switch. It is too complex to describe in a brief post here; best to get the Factory service manual from a dealer.
 
Still no news. Searched the website of the importer and found a local workshop. Visited them but unfortunately the website wasn't updated. Have also tried a native forum but as mentioned Tohatsu is not a very common engine in DK so no luck :( Next try will be to contact some other workshops.

I found the service manual on the internet but only in the states. That will take at least 2-3 weeks to get it.

I just catched a video of the tacho where I switch the ignition to on and then press the key for some seconds. Just a small hope that somebody can see something out of it. If not I need to purchase the service manual in USA and wait. I would just prefer to be on the water as it's high season...

https://youtu.be/U3hM5uVAI9s
 
Jakob,

The method to put the TLDI series into diagnostic mode is quite different and more complex than just holding the key switch in. It actually uses the kill switch in addition, and there are dozens of readings to be returned. If you want to tackle the repair yourself, you must go by the Factory service manual (published by Tohatsu). Do not get an aftermarket manual, as they are too general.
 
Okay,

Knew it was a "long shot". I have sent a request to maxrules. Shipping cost were extremely expensive at Tohatsu.

I will come back if any news.
 
MasterTech is a Tohatsu dealer. Tohatsu America does not sell to consumers. What dealer had the expensive shipping rates?
 
Update

Purchased the manual at boats.net for around 50$ including transport. Still waiting for it.

For your interest this is how the boat is behaves. We have just changed the spark plugs and after the first error the ECU is reset.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnO85tyn__U

While waiting I found a Tohatsu dealer in DK. Not nearby so it was just to get a good advice by phone. He suggested to disconnect to fuel pressure sensor, oil pressure sensor and water temperature sensor one by one to see if it made any difference. Anyway that led me back to my Seloc repair manuel where I after a while found a chapter concerning the self diagnostic procedure including the reading of the fault codes. Ran to the boat just to read the codes but unfortunately I had reset the ecu :(

Therefore the boat was put on the water again last night. ECU reset and starter on both batteries in parallel to be able to exclude the battery power as suspect. The boat failed again after approx. 3 min with full throttle. I followed the guide in the Seloc repair manual and got these readings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-20g3JlJZY

To catch up it's 2 fault codes.

Rev 5500 + oil lamp off + battery lamp on
Rev 6000 + oil lamp off + battery lamp on

The codes are pointing towards the TPS 1 and 2 sensors. Afterwards when I was googling the TPS sensors I found this link. If it's the manual I'm waiting for from boats.net or not I'm not sure but it includes the same procedure about self diagnostic and table of fault codes (9-15).

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...XxDTEkSs1SCYnJELw&sig2=n4El4A_D_YqqumaseJE0hg

So next step will be to examine the two TPS sensors. I recognized a gap of 1-2 mm from the advancer arm to the fully closed stop when the handle is fully closed. Maybe the issue is as simple as just a small adjustment of the throttle cable. Hope so :)

Keep you posted :cool:
 
We usually check fault codes, then reset ECU and also TPS initial setting (like calibrating the ECU to the TPS), and then re-check performance. Did you reset the TPS initial setting when you reset the ECU? That can make a LOT of difference.
 
As I didn't know how to check the fault codes I reset the the ECU by a mistake.

I used this method but WITHOUT checking the advancer arm position before resetting. I wasn't aware of that. As written there is a gap of 1-2 mm between the advancer arm and fully closed stop.

Reset Procedure
(1) With the throttle in the fully closed state, adjust the cables or wires in order to advance the advancer
arm to the fully closed stopper position.
Then move the throttle several times to confirm that the arm is snug against the fully closed stopper.
(2) Perform the following procedures with the throttle in the fully closed state. (Refer to the chart below)
q Turned the key switch to the On position. Within one second after the beep (buzzer) stops
sounding, disconnect the stop switch lock.
w Wait approximately 5 to 10 seconds (7 seconds to be exact); then pull the red knob on the stop
switch for 0.5 second or less and release it.
e Wait another 5 to 10 seconds (7 seconds to be exact); then pull the red knob on the stop switch
again for 0.5 second or less and release it.
r The sounding of 3 short beeps approximately 5 seconds after the knob is returned indicates a
successful reset of the TPS and ECU.
If no beeps are heard, replace stop switch lock. And start again.
t Next, turn the key switch to OFF, confirm that the throttle (advancer arm) is at the fully closed
position; then turn the key switch to ON.

I have unmounted the TPS sensors for a check. I cannot get the values to match these values but TPS 1 and 2 are quite similar in the readings:

• Between upper and lower
connectors: 5.0Ω ±20%
• Between upper and middle
connectors: resistance value (kΩ)
Fully closed Full open
TPS1 4 to 5 0.5 to 1
TPS2 4 to 5 4 to 5
 
Have installed the tps sensors again, adjusted the throttle cable so the advancer arm touches the stop when idling and reset the tps/ecu. Cables from tps sensors to ecu are checked too.

I just made a stort movie of the engine idling after reset. It has always been jumping a bit when idling. Unless you think I missed something I will test the boat on the water again as soon as possible.

https://youtu.be/Sg9foA01E2s
 
Looks like problem is solved. Test ride went without any problems. So the conclusion must be that it's cruzial that the advancer arm is touching the stop when resetting the ecu/tps (like the manual says...).

Thanks for your help.
 
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