Ignition Switch Troubleshooting

Hello all,
A few weeks ago, I posted a thread about some intermittent power problems I was having. After some troubleshooting and jumping to the conclusion that it was my kill switch, the problem is not resolved.

Here is the problem:
1. After turning the key, engine / controls lose power (rapid beep, no crank, tilt doesn't work)
2. Jumping does nothing, had to manually tilt
3. After driving home, tilt works, turning key gets ready beep but when key is turned, back to 1
(Battery voltage is good, terminal connections clean)

This makes me really suspect the ignition switch but I'd like to test before replacing. The engine is a 2010 BF60.

Can anyone recommend a test procedure? Or is this obviously the switch?
Thank you!

Nope! Found the test procedure for the combination switch and got continuity as shown. Back to the basics I guess, looking for continuity from battery to engine looking for an open.

Getting battery voltage at starter but seeing some resistance (190-200) when checking for continuity from battery negative to engine bolts/brackets. Is the ground connected "behind" the starter? (Boat is backed into a garage, hard to see).

I think you are going in the right direction. I do not have my manual here, but ground is probably somewhere near the starter location, if it is like the 50. I have not had to do much to any of the 60's that we have sold, so I have not had to do anything with the negative connection.

When the trim intermittantly quits, the most likely issue is wiring between the engine and the battery. If your battery cable lays down in the bilge or lays in the transom area of the boat, over time the moisture and sun and salt (if you are in salt water) can cause the wires inside the cable to deteriorate.

It could also be a loose ground cable connection....especially if someone other than you have been working on it.

Mike

Excessive corrosion will sometimes cause cables to get hot to touch. Better known as high resistance!!

To test, use a set of good auto jumper cables and bypass the regular cables to the engine. I don't know how the 60 is setup, but typically battery ground is connected to a clean, bare part of the engine frame like a head bolt and the positive from the battery will connect to the main starter solenoid lug. Just trace where the positive battery cable initially terminates on the engine and connect the positive jumper there. Be very careful to not reverse.

Thank you all for the input.
As expected, when jumping the ground directly to the engine bracket, problem disappears.
Still haven't pulled the boat out to check the actual connection but I did find the diagram showing where it is. There are two bolts one of which I was able to reach - looked solid but had resistance. I'm thinking it's the cable in the rigging tunnel.
Its a bit concerning because the engine / rigging are only a few years old with only 340 hours. The tunnel does usually have standing water when in use and probably some remaining when stored. If I confirm its the cable, I'll take it in to have re-pulled and see what it looks like. If bad, I'll consider re-doing the other wires.

If you replace it, also replace the positive cable too, and try to route them so they are not in the bilge if possible.

chawk_man said:

If you replace it, also replace the positive cable too, and try to route them so they are not in the bilge if possible.

Click to expand...

That is the hunch I was getting, thank you for confirming. Unfortunately, in a small Whaler, the rigging tunnel shares the same low space as the bilge. There is no other way to run the wires except on the deck which is unacceptable. I'll consult my Whaler forum but I think this has been the design for decades with good reliability.

I haven't been on a Whaler for some time, but I seem to recall a friend's Whaler had space for cables and such under the top of the gunwales. But you know your boat. Consider some creative use of PVC pipes or flexible electrical conduit.