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1990 115ETLD will not start.

C

Creepin_D

New member
First off, sorry for the long post that you are about to read, but I wanna try to explain in detail the issue with my outboard.

I changed my fuel filter(not the one attached to the motor).

Pumped the "fuel ball", and tried to start the motor...nothing. Removed the fuel line that is attached to the internal filter, then pump the ball until I got fuel up to the filter. Then I drained one of the pots on the carb, and again pumped the fuel to make sure I was getting fuel right to the carbs. Tried the motor...nothing.

Next, I poured just a little bit of fuel into the cylinder head, and the motor fired up right away. Let idle for about 10 min, shut off the motor, let it sit for an hour, tried the motor and it fired right away again.

So at this point I figure I had the fuel line air locked, and now after bleeding the fuel all is good. BUT I tried the motor again after about 5 hours of down time and nothing. Not even an offer.

I'm thinking I have a bad fuel pump, but I wanna see what you guys think before I go out and buy a new pump.

Thanks for your help :)
 
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If it is the fuel pump - you probably don't need to purchase the entire fuel pump assy - Look at the fuel system schematic for your engine, you'll see the fuel pump and notice it has lots of parts that can be purchased separately. You can take it apart and check to see if the diaphram has failed (torn, hole in it, etc) and, if it has, buy just a new diaphram for the pump. Easy to replace.
 
Trouble shooting 101 compression test, Spark test, followed by fuel diagnostics. A little history would help.first time out?new problem?Old problem? old fuel in tank? Anti siphon valve defective?primer bulb bad? does primer bulb pump up firmly before starting? possible floats sticking,tap sides of bowls with tool, On board filter was it replaced,blown thru backwards,is it clear, It really sounds like carbs are really gummed up.might have to pull carbs, disassemble, clean,scrub ,all ports,jets, crevices, passageways,bowls, ETC. Reset floats and rebuild,reassemble carbs,pictures come in handy for reassembly& reinstall, Post results and or questions
 
johnnygjr said:
Trouble shooting 101 compression test, Spark test, followed by fuel diagnostics. A little history would help.first time out?new problem?Old problem? old fuel in tank? Anti siphon valve defective?primer bulb bad? does primer bulb pump up firmly before starting? possible floats sticking,tap sides of bowls with tool, On board filter was it replaced,blown thru backwards,is it clear, It really sounds like carbs are really gummed up.might have to pull carbs, disassemble, clean,scrub ,all ports,jets, crevices, passageways,bowls, ETC. Reset floats and rebuild,reassemble carbs,pictures come in handy for reassembly& reinstall, Post results and or questions
Click to expand...

Did not do a compression test, got spark on all 4 plugs, new fuel. This only happend after I changed my main fuel filter(not the little one attached to the motor). What is anti siphon valve? Did you mean the inline check valve? Primer bulb is good, and it firms up before I try to start motor.

Most people I talk to say that it's my carbs. Thanks for the reply.
 
Yes ,inline check valve. Double check entire fuel system from inside of tank to carbs for air leaks,loose connections, obstructions,collapsing suction side of fuel line,vent obstruction? You said this happened after main filter change,Are we talking about the water/ fuel separator mounted on transom. If yes, did you fill filter with fuel before you installed it? Are you using proper starting technique . Pumping bulb till firm,Turning key to on,pressing in key 1 to3 count to activate choke solenoid,then turning key to start,pressing in key till she smooths out?
 
So I finally figured out the issue. The choke is not working on my remote control, I have to use the choke that is on my outboard. Anyone ever have this issue before? If so, how do I fix it, aside from replacing my remote control module.
 
Check ALL wiring for continuity from remote control to engine/battery. Check all grounds are clean and tight. If continuity of all wires are good check voltage to the remote control. If volts to the remote are good check volts at the electric choke in engine when engaging choke on the remote control. No voltage at the electric choke probabaly = bad switch in the remote. Bypass switch in the remote with a jumper wire and see if the electric choke engages with a bypass as a final bad switch test.
 
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