Logo

More trouble from my 88 50hp force

I was decarbing yesterday and this happened. I assume it's the top seal to the gear oil compartment or could it be something else. I'm going to drop the gear oil again tomorrow and see whats up. Any info of course would be appreciated. The bottom photo is what was leaking out of my exhaust this morning, I assume that's good.
attachment.php
attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • SAVE0002.jpg
    SAVE0002.jpg
    26.8 KB · Views: 41
  • Updated Bayliner Pic.jpg
    Updated Bayliner Pic.jpg
    53.2 KB · Views: 254
  • Updated Bayliner Pic2.jpg
    Updated Bayliner Pic2.jpg
    48.3 KB · Views: 274
  • Updated Bayliner Pic3.jpg
    Updated Bayliner Pic3.jpg
    56.9 KB · Views: 228
it don't have anything to do with the current problem but it looks like in the pics that the motor is setting too low on the boat..almost as if you have a long shaft engine on a short shaft boat..
 
Check the oil in the lower.
The grey gunk might not have anything to do with it??
It could be gunk from the de-carb.
The last pic is probably unburned gas/oil.

Old 2 strokers are a messy lot.
They can have fuel leak out when tilting up.
It has to go somewhere and it settles in low spots.
Then finds it's way out, usually on the garage floor.

Why a de-carb??
 
Check the oil in the lower.
The grey gunk might not have anything to do with it??
It could be gunk from the de-carb.
The last pic is probably unburned gas/oil.

Old 2 strokers are a messy lot.
They can have fuel leak out when tilting up.
It has to go somewhere and it settles in low spots.
Then finds it's way out, usually on the garage floor.

Why a de-carb??

I dropped the oil and this is what I found. Blue with white streaks in it. After my last post before this one I used this boat one time. I took it out for a test drive and opened it up WOT for several minutes before I started fishing. It ran great.
I de-carbed again because I did it wrong last time. I didn't give it enough time in the motor to do it's job. I did it right this time I'm sure.
Johnny thanks for chiming in I was hoping you would.
My wife is home today so maybe she can post some picks of my rebuilt boat...

View attachment 13744View attachment 13745
 

Attachments

  • Updated Bayliner Pic4.jpg
    Updated Bayliner Pic4.jpg
    41.3 KB · Views: 42
  • Updated Bayliner Pic5.jpg
    Updated Bayliner Pic5.jpg
    60.9 KB · Views: 32
White streaks or silver?
The white could be water/oil.
Silver could be metal shavings.
The silver could be from normal wear?
Depends on the amount?

Pressure test the lower unit.
The best way is taking it off, remove the water pump and prop and hub and covering it in soapy water(lots of soap)and adding a small shot of air and see if it makes bubbles.
 
I got tomorrow off and plan to go fishing. I'm gonna put it through it's paces but good. I want to see how it runs after my carb and fuel pump rebuild. by the way nice idea with that water separating fuel filter. It made me replace every bit of fuel line and fittings on the boat. My next day off is Sunday so I'll drop the fluid again and take it apart. If I'm gonna pull that whole bottom end off do you think I should go ahead and do the water wheel and bearing? I have all the parts here. Maybe I'll take it to the marina and have them do it. I'm not afraid of doing anything, I'm no mechanic but I know what I know. I'm just strapped for time right now. I'm planning on September trip to big pine key fishing lodge and it sure would be nice not to worry about this thing for once. Thanks for your help Jerry you will never know how much I appreciate it. You should get paid! right ahter your done with me!!!:rolleyes:
 
Yup there's a bearing, unless you ran out of oil and burned it don't change.
If there is water in the lower(pressure test?) then a seal might need replacing.
The seal under the pump is the most likely to go as the crud from the pump and water setting under the pump tends to make them go quicker.

But do a pressure test FIRST!!!
 
OK Jerry, thanks.
I'll take it apart on the weekend. I ran it yesterday after the carb and fuel pump work. With de-carb and new plugs it ran great. Best it ever has!!!! It still has a little bit of a miss and I wonder if it's the timing. I still have to take out the starter and clean that up, looks pretty easy.
Ok, I'll post on the weekend
 
Low speed miss? The air screw needs t be adjusted.
High speed? Water in the fuel, reeds,compression.

OK. Sorry about the long delay, but work and life got in the way. I rebuilt the gear box as in replacing all the seals. The carb I had professionally done as well as the timing so all is good. One more question. As I was putting the drive shaft back into the gear box I noticed a little spring action that I didn't notice taking it out. I have it all together and am going to run it tomorrow. Is this spring because the gear box has new seals and I had filled it first with gear oil before I put the shaft back in. Is it just pressure? I tested the gear shift rod and it goes into forward and reverse solid so I think I'm OK to go. I replaced the impeller and put the key back in as well. Gosh darn it I have it in my head that I missed something.
As in spring I mean I can push the shaft down and it will bounce back up about a quarter of an inch before I reattached the the water impeller housing. I attached the housing with no issues and assembled. Just double checking.
JerryJerry I'm glad your back!
 
Thanks,Glad I figured a way to get back.
The spring is normal.
The oil is probably pushing it back.

OK thanks, I'm a little confused about the shifter rod adjustment. If I put it into froward gear it should lock up when I try to turn it with my hand, Correct? Should it turn freely in the opposite direction or does it lock both ways? Mine does not move forward or backward when I put it in gear forward or reverse. I can turn it when it's in gear, when I do the pistons turn. When it's in neutral it turns freely.
 
Sounds normal to me.
It should lock when put in gear.
If you lock down the flywheel, then try turning the prop, it should lock in one direction and slip/bump in the other.

Like I said yours sounds normal.
 
Never turn the motor over with the prop. The gearoil look pretty good was there water in the bottom when you first took the plug out? rub the white/silver part between your fingers for metal fragments. The sludge thats coming out is normal unless it smells like gearoil then be concerned. Take it out and do another decarb on the water this time run it hard for 1/2 hour or so to blow out the cobwebs. If you run the motor at slow speeds for extended periods run it hard just before you load it on the trailer and once home keep the motor in the running position after you flush it on the muffs to fully drain.
 
Thank you everyone for your great reply's and info. I finished adjusting and fine tuning my boat this last week and and ran it off a hose to see if it shifted good and it did. I wasn't able to get out in Florida this last weekend because of the high winds in my area. But will get out this weekend and I am hoping that I can finally take a breather from my 28 year old project. Thank you for all the info and great posts. I wish I could post more and knew more about the mechanics of marine motors but I don't... I do lurk alot.
 
Back
Top