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Testing Alarm Buzzer

WaitUpGuys

Contributing Member
Quick question for all the smart folks out there. I have a 90 HP VE90Tlets Evinrude. I don't think my buzzer is working. Most test I've seen are 2 wire buzzer. My buzzer has 2 spades that were hooked to a tan wire and a purple wire, and 1 black wire that was attached to the ignition. I have the buzzer removed. What's the best way to manually test this to make sure it actually works? Sample of what it looks like:
buzzer.jpg

Much appreciated for your wisdom. :)
 
Black build in wire = connects to ground.
Tan wire = connects to spade terminal next to black ground wire. Lead from sensors at powerhead.
Purple wire = connects to other spade terminal. Lead from "A" terminal of ignition switch.

To test... connect battery negative lead to spade terminal next to black ground wire. Connect positive battery lead to the other spade terminal. The horn should sound.
 
Black build in wire = connects to ground.
Tan wire = connects to spade terminal next to black ground wire. Lead from sensors at powerhead.
Purple wire = connects to other spade terminal. Lead from "A" terminal of ignition switch.

To test... connect battery negative lead to spade terminal next to black ground wire. Connect positive battery lead to the other spade terminal. The horn should sound.

Sounds simple enough. ThankS Joe!
 
Welp! Looks like the buzzer is toast. Instead of shelling out a bunch of money for another OEM buzzer, i'm planning on hooking up a 2 wire Piezo buzzer. I've bypassed the oil injection. The purpose for the buzzer is to indicate any overheating. Anyone see any issue with swapping a OEM buzzer for a 2-wire Piezo buzzer. Planning on hooking the purple wire to the red wire on the Piezo, and the tan wire to the black wire on the Piezo.
 
1993 90hp Evinrude

Sounds good to me, that'll give you a warning if the engine attempts to overheat... and that warning takes place before the engine is hot enough to do any damage.

To test that two wire horn, simply have the key in the ON position (engine NOT running) and ground out the heat sensor TAN wire (whatever color it might be now) protruding from the cylinder head. The horn should sound.
 
1993 90hp Evinrude

Sounds good to me, that'll give you a warning if the engine attempts to overheat... and that warning takes place before the engine is hot enough to do any damage.

To test that two wire horn, simply have the key in the ON position (engine NOT running) and ground out the heat sensor TAN wire (whatever color it might be now) protruding from the cylinder head. The horn should sound.


Good deal. Apparently the alarm has never worked since the previous owner. It'll be good to have a piece of mind knowing the alarm is working. Thanks Joe.
 
Joe Reeves, I'm also experiencing a non-working alarm. I removed and tested the buzzer alarm and it works. I even purchased a new gauge, so I know that works, but the connection, purple wire and a tan wire seem to be undamaged and make a good connection. The question I have is that there's an extra purple wire that was tapped into the main purple wire and is hanging loose, I can't seem to figure out where it connects. Any suggestions?
 
Thread is going on 3 years old..... Always start a new post in such cases (old).

However... purple wire is simply a 12v supply when key is ON... connects to whatever requires that voltage.
 
The purple wire is normally the system check wire on horns with 3 wires the horn will beep for about half a second or so when you turn the key on the system is also connected to Led lights when they go off it tells you the system is working.
 
Thanks Tegweni. This buzzer originally had the one purple wire and one tan wire but another purple wire was added by someone, probably when my new Evinrude was installed but the problem is the added wire is hanging loose and I don't know where is was connected. I guess I can try to connect it to a 12vdc post on the buss terminal via a jumper and hope nothing bad happens. The added purple wire is connected to the original purple wire.
 
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