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1964 40 h.p. S.s h.,

S

shoosteen

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First time out ran good at low speed but try to accelerate and she slips out of gear but will continue on at slow speed. Whats up with that? Its got electric shift???Help please.:confused:
 
If it actually slips out of gear, that is the engine revs up, the boat slows down, and lowering the rpms starts you moving again but only if you're going slow....... the hub is slipping within the propeller.

Have the propeller re-hubbed or replace the propeller.
 
It COULD be a slipping electric shift clutch. Check the gear oil in the lower unit, and use the correct oil (OMC / BRP Premium Blend). If necessary, check out the electric shift voltages. Better hope it is the prop hub.
 
fdrgator said:
It COULD be a slipping electric shift clutch. Check the gear oil in the lower unit, and use the correct oil (OMC / BRP Premium Blend). If necessary, check out the electric shift voltages. Better hope it is the prop hub.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it could very well be. That mentioned in post #1 slipped by me.
 
Thanks, The lower unit was flushed and new proper oil added by professional prior to trial. Another issue I may have is the charging system. Is the alternator supposed to produce a constant current or produce current intermittently?
 
The 1964 40hp model incorporates a generator... not an alternator. In either case, a steady output depending on rpm.
 
Thank's,I had my meter on the terminals on generator while at idle and it read zero volts.Is that a good way to test? If not what would be a correct test?
 
The generator will not kick on until the rpm is around 1500 rpms and should keep charging at idle but not very much. Just enough to keep it in gear. Max output is 10 amps at WOT rpms. Be sure and put your battery on a charger when you get home and do a slow charge. That way you start out with a full charge. The problem with that design gearbox is if your battery goes dead your dead in the water as neutral is default. later models used forward as the default so if the battery went dead you still had power as the ignition is independent from the charging system.
 
Thank you for the good info. In order to get sufficient RPM it has to be in gear, at that point all the water is forced from canister.If I use a hose and ear muffs will it get enough water to keep engine cool?
 
K---------Are you sure all the Hydro-Electric models can run with a dead battery ?-------Some off them can but not ALL of them !
 
This one need's juice to run. I had the gen. checked at shop it is good.Whats the difficulty factor to repair or replace the electric shift clutch on this motor? Scale 1-10.
 
?----The shift system on the 40 hp electric shift needs 12 volts in order to stay in gear.-------The ignition / spark system does not need 12 volts.
 
I'm not sure how it works. I am pretty sure it slipped out of gear and low voltage was not the cause.How hard is repair to electric shift clutch?
 
shoosteen said:
Thank's,I had my meter on the terminals on generator while at idle and it read zero volts.Is that a good way to test? If not what would be a correct test?
Click to expand...

Generator removed from engine but with pulley installed w/o aluminum flange... Field terminal of generator grounded to generator... volt meter leads attached to generator Field and Armature terminals... spin generator pulley by leaning pulley into wire brush of your shop grinder. That wire brush won't damage the pulley and the generator output will register on the volt meter.
 
I learned how to repair the forward hub / spring some 40 years ago.---------After repairs the only parts cost is the gear oil !
 
You can test both shift magnets by connecting the wires going down to the gearbox directly to the battery using jumpers. Just clamp neg cable from battery to engine ground. then jump pos to the green wire it should shift into forward then disconnect the green wire and connect the blue wire and it should go into reverse. Just run the engine in a barrel of water while testing the wires to the gearbox. If it shifts good then work your way back to the controls, a bad connection will show voltage but may not have enough current to energize the electromagnet to shift into gear.
http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/61_66_40HP.jpg
There are knife disconnects for the wires going down to the gearbox just slide the sleeve off the disconnect and break them apart. Be sure and isolate the wires going to the controls just in case they are hot you dont short them to ground.
 
Ok Race maybe you will learn me how to repair forward hub and spring in a few days.I have service manual on way to me,that may help me. Thank you all for your time and knowledge!!!
 
I had to walk away for a while, now motor will not stay running. I removed float bowl and high s. nozzle gasket was in very poor condition. I made one from cork 1/8" stock.Not a good idea I'm sure. removed H.S. jet it's clean, to replace jet turn in until it seats? It's a fixed jet and the slot was at 3 and 9 should I try to get it back into same position?As far as nozzle gasket, is it positioned on top towards float or on bottom of the nozzle?The way it is now motor fires the instant the key is turned,runs smooth for 30 seconds then idle begins slow down fuel begins to pour from throat of carb and shortly stops running.Any suggestions I can really use the help. This project is going in reverse. Thank You!!!
 
Get a rebuild kit and rebuild the carb properly you probaby should replace the float at the same time. Also replace the fuel lines in the motor. I have a good generator and voltage regulator if you need them make me an offer. If it is not working try polarizing the generator first.
 
I showed a local dealer years ago.-----Had 33 years experience on his business card.--------Said---" in my wildest dreams I would not have figured it was this easy"------------Am I going to tell the secret on the internet to folks who question my knowledge / expertise ??-----I don't think so !!
 
Ok to rebuild the carb I need to get a kit, take it apart and replace some parts? Generator is good, regulator is some thing I may be interested in. I will get back to you on that.I will be the last person to question anyone's knowledge I don't even know what a soft plug is.
 
It is the round convex plug on the carb that covers the slow circuit. I just use a sheet metal screw to pop it out with then use a socket half the size of the new plug to tap it close to flat and then put a thin bead of loctite around the edge to help seal it off.
 
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