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1964 40 h.p. S.s h.,

Thanks for that one Kim. I went to link you were kind enough to provide,but the kit was for 1965 40H.P. Will that kit work for my 1964?
 
shoosteen said:
Thanks for that one Kim. I went to link you were kind enough to provide,but the kit was for 1965 40H.P. Will that kit work for my 1964?
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The electric shift hub (378519) and spring (311030) for the electric shift hp models that existed back in the 1960's are all the same regardless of the year or horsepower..... any year 40hp, 75hp, 90hp.
 
Thanks,maybe I need to get it to run decent before all that.When removing high speed nozzle is it seated or do you count the # of turns?
 
shoosteen said:
Thanks,maybe I need to get it to run decent before all that.When removing high speed nozzle is it seated or do you count the # of turns?
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No offense here, rather educational.

The high speed nozzle is the permanent vertical brass tube attached to the bottom center portion of the upper body.

The high speed jet is the small threaded part that is screwed into the float chamber in back of the drain screw. This "jet "must" be seated snugly.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
Thank you Joe. I don't know when i'll get to it but I will get back to you all on the results of rebuild.Then deal with any other issues I may have.Do you have carb kit for RK-26?
 
I'll go there in a min.I got carb off.How do you deal with air activated auto choke? I removed the cover started to remove 3 screws on inside but was not sure if this the right thing to do.I'm not sure about the linkage I don't want to mess it up.After that what besides soft plug, H.S.J.,float& valve,L.S.J. get's disassembled on carb?Then soak carb body over night?
 
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The carb.rebuild went well.Took it for test run and found a cracked fuel fitting to tank. Replaced fitting then had air & fuel escaping from tank fitting.I tried to get on plane and had gear or clutch issue again. Starts to accelerate then bang out of gear then bang back in gear. Can this be a lack of power issue?I now have fuel problem under control. If I test it again and get The in gear then out of gear problem what then my friends?
 
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Ok thanks! That would be good.I just looked at the manual and now I know why everyone who knows about Electromatic system wants nothing to do with it.Looks like a real pain.
 
shoosteen said:
Ok thanks! That would be good.I just looked at the manual and now I know why everyone who knows about Electromatic system wants nothing to do with it.Looks like a real pain.
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Really great when they're working properly though... damn near make that rig go sideways! :)
 
Sounds good.Test run tomorrow at that time I will have a clear picture of the condition of the gear case.If she won't sideways forward and reverse will be just fine with me!!!If we video can it be sent here for you all watch?Either way I'll get back with results.:cool:
 
Don't know why no one picked this up but if you are banging in and out of drive it sounds as if you have clutch dog or forward gear wear issues.Inspection would show rounded corners on the dog and/or the lands on the forward gear.Expensive to replace but there is a method I have used with some succes a few times.
 
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