New Purchase

I'm going this Monday to check out a boat I'm thinking about buying. It's a 1995 Stratos 258 with a 1994 Johnson 60 on it. Been talking with the guy alot the past few days and he tells me the boat and motor are in tip top shape. He is even taking me out on the lake for a test run. Says top end speed is around 35mph. Does this sound right for that sized motor with that sized boat? Also, is there anything I need to specifically look for on that model engine? He's going to let me do a compression test on it, do any of you guys have an idea of what my readings should look like? Just wanting to make sure I have all my p's and q's covered before I hand over the money. As always, I appreciate all the help.and knowledge that you guys provide to noobs like me.

Knowing how many hours are put in the engine is a good identifier of knowing its condition

A good one would have 120+ psi. I doubt the boat has an hr meter usually owners have to guess at that. Speed sounds about right but ask him if it is speedo or GPS speed. Being able to test drive is great that will tell you more than anything.

Will be test driving it. He's only had it about a year and hates to sell but it doesn't fit the needs of his family, 1 wife and 4 kids. Speed was calculated by the fish finder that has gps. Probably has no idea of the hours but says it'll fire right up the first time every time. He's also allowing me to do a compression test on it. What would be the correct way to do it? I've read so many different ways of doing one, is the a particular way to do one on a Johnson? Warm engine? Should I remove the plugs from the wires and ground plug wires to the block? Does it not matter? I don't want to mess anything electrical up on the engine then be forced to buy something not working

that is a 3 cylinder engine..make sure you check compression...some people like all plugs out to do it..some dont..a quick check is to remove one plug at a time ...you are looking for an even reading as much as the amount...10% variance is what you want and even at 10% if the top plug is the low one I would walk away..

check the lower unit for water and/or shavings...

if the water pump is over 3 years old you will need to replace it..

I don't know what you are paying for the boat but it may be worth a couple hour labor charge from a good mechanic to check it out...

never trust a seller's ''reason for selling'' on a used boat..

Don't overlook the structure of the boats hull as well, check transom and floor for weakness, and look at the bilge area for signs of any issues. Look at the keel and bottom of hull. Trailer is something else, tires, lights work, brakes (probably not applicable on a sub 16' boat)

As mentioned, trust is something to hold back on when making any purchase from a stranger. They're trying to sell you something, ignore everything other than if the item is worth the asking price.

papyson said:

that is a 3 cylinder engine..make sure you check compression...some people like all plugs out to do it..some dont..a quick check is to remove one plug at a time ...you are looking for an even reading as much as the amount...10% variance is what you want and even at 10% if the top plug is the low one I would walk away..

check the lower unit for water and/or shavings...

if the water pump is over 3 years old you will need to replace it..

I don't know what you are paying for the boat but it may be worth a couple hour labor charge from a good mechanic to check it out...

never trust a seller's ''reason for selling'' on a used boat..

Click to expand...

He's is asking 5200 obo. I was told my the mechanic in my area to remove all plugs and perform the test that way. How do I check the lower unit for water or shavingss?

Test compression engine cold with all plugs removed. You should ground the plug wires to avoid possible damage to the ignition. Crank on the starter until the test guage stops moving usually 3-4 complete revolutions. To check gearoil just remove the lower drain plug and quickly put it back in. Any water should have settled to the bottom as well as metal shavings. Rub your fingers in the oil you will feel the fragments if present.

Check out the deck and transom for dryrot as well by tapping on it with a hammer you will hear the difference between good wood and dryrot by the tone, if it goes thunk it has issues.

.10% variance is what you want and even at 10% if the top plug is the low one I would walk away..
I was told by several guys around here that the 3 cylinder engines were all trouble eventually. Said they're work horses to begin with but once the trouble starts, it's nothing but trouble from then on. Said if I could find a 2 cylinder 60 I'd be in business.

take a volt meter with you and make sure it is charging while you are running.

I would be more concerned about cylinder #2 for that motor that is what the service bulletin pertains to. If that reads low I would pass you can also find out if the service bulletin has been done to it.

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(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)
(J. Reeves)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.


Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.


The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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(Small Rectifier Description & Location)

Reply to question about the VRO:

VRO = Variable Ratio Oil. This is a large black pump that draws/pumps both oil and gasoline and mixes the two. There is a separate oil tank located somewhere in the boat with a hose leading to the VRO along with the gasoline hose... there would also be wiring for the low oil supply warning setup pertaining to the tank oil level. Follow either hose at the engine to locate the VRO which is a large black plastic pump. The pump has one hose at its top that leads to the carburetors, and three hoses on the bottom which is a oil inlet, a gasoline inlet, and a pressure/operating hose that leads to the crankcase.

The various warnings that the horn would emit are as follows:

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(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: I retired around 1991/92. Possibly some of the later V4 engines and others may also incorporate a fuel vacuum switch that would enable a fuel restriction warning to sound as mentioned below, an unknown factor to myself.

1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.


2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)


3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).

NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1


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