Joe, the engine with no spark has no gooey drippings. The engine with good spark has gooey drippings.
Stators, when they first start to melt down or even after a unknown period of time (It varies) will function normally when cold BUT after a period of run time and they become hot, they will omit weak, erratic, and eventually no ignition. Bottom line is not to use any stator that is melting down.
The stator that appears good.... that engine comes across to me as one whose powerpack has failed. When I was a working man, I'd simply install a new powerpack as a test unit and was never disappointed. HINT... I found that it was a good idea to have a spare powerpack in my small on board tool kit and the tools to change it... so should you decide to purchase one and not need it right now, it's not a total loss as you'll need it someday.
Do the following test as it is one problem that is a real powerpack killer.
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Voltage To Powerpack Failures
(Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
(J. Reeves)
The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.
Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.
Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire and ground.
With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.
Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.
If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.
Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!
Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:
http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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