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Gauges not a Working

ehlien

Regular Contributor
Just getting ready to put my 1994 Baja in the water after 2 years out of service and noticed non of the dash gauges are coming on when I initiate the ignition key. Other than a fuse that's out what would be a common cause for them all to be on the fritz?
 
Typically, the positive power is daisy chained from gauge to gauge once it comes off the key switch. The ground may also be daisy chained, but typically not from the key switch. So the first thing to do is pull the key switch and check connections on it. If connections look good, find the wire that powers the gauges. Different manufacturers use different color coded wire for the gauges. Use a voltmeter or 12 V power probe to determine whether you have 12 V going to the gauges when the key switch is turned on. If not, then check and clean the connection going to the gauges, and re-test. If still no power then the fault is in the key switch. Some can be disassembled and cleaned, others cannot, requiring complete replacement.

If you have power going to the gauges then you need to trace the ground wire that goes to the gauges back to its source, and test that connection.
 
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will check accordingly .. seems like i have replaced few switches before ..I know this one is newer but who knows if its still good .. thanks
 
Are any of the accys working? They normally share a common ground bus bar. I would take the time now to go through everything and do any upgrades necessary for a safe outing.
 
I'd be inclined to separate, clean (as necessary) , and reseat the main engine harness to dash connection....
 
I'm floating (or at least attempting to) a 1994 272 Baja 28 foot off shore with a single 454 engine. I have not had time to look yet but generally where is that connection located? Is that connection located on the engine? BTW ... I'm also trying to debug a no start problem and suspecting I'm not getting spark. I've eliminated fuel as the problem. Not sure if there would be a common thread to the two problems there??
 
As makomark indicated check that engine harness, specially on the engine side since this is an engine that sits on the bilge it is very common for the electrical connections to get corrosion and loos contact.
 
Harness connections look good but I cleaned them ..now back to looking for a common ground thas not right
 
ground connection - I'd start with the main battery wire - should be around the flywheel cover (bell housing)...

FWIW, looking at electrical connections don't get you much....I prefer to check each connection for voltage drop....usually with one meter wire on the battery....

On the no start- assuming the starter is spinning the engine, I'd check the voltage at the + side of the coil first...if its not spinning (coupled with the gauge issue) I'd suspect you don't have a good supply to the key...that would hint at the breaker or the wiring harness...
 
ground connection - I'd start with the main battery wire - should be around the flywheel cover (bell housing)...

FWIW, looking at electrical connections don't get you much....I prefer to check each connection for voltage drop....usually with one meter wire on the battery....

On the no start- assuming the starter is spinning the engine, I'd check the voltage at the + side of the coil first...if its not spinning (coupled with the gauge issue) I'd suspect you don't have a good supply to the key...that would hint at the breaker or the wiring harness...


So frustrating as everything worked fine when the bot was out up for winter a couple years ago... On the gauges.. I will check as you suggested but doesn't the fact that all the gauges are not working indicate something most likely common to them all like a bad feed or ground?
I found a blown 20Amp inline fuse on the line from the battery to the + terminal on the mercathode that I replaced yesterday but still did not have spark. Today I checked the circuit breaker below the mecathode by jumping the two sides and confirming a closed circuit. Tomorrow I'll check the for voltage at the key as suggested and try to confirm voltage to the coil. After that I will still have to confirm the coil itself is good. BTW .. I used an inline spark plug tested to confirm there was no spark to the plugs and also put it in line between the coil and distributor and got no indication of spark.
 
So lame and dumb.. turns out I forgot to replace the kill switch lanyard on the ignition switch ... started on the first twist.. thanks to everyone who tried to help solve the mystery :p
 
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