Logo

1996 Yamaha 75 hp C75 TLRU

crabmann

New member
Just bought the outboard. The trim/tilt motor was rusted badly. When I removed it there was water inthe oil. Decided to replace all seals and o rings. I can find allthe parts except the top rod seal/dust seal on the tilt rod. I wastold that I have to replace the whole assemby ($525) to get thatseal. Doesn't seem real. Are there any solutions out there.
 
Sounds like a bunch of Yamaha service BS to me. Go to simyamaha.com and check out their parts diagrams on your engine - check out the Power Trim/Tilt Assembly 1 diagram (I just did). Seems to me there's no need to replace the entire trim assy is broken down into 78 parts. If you can't identify the specific gasket call Sim and they'll tell you which one it is or which sub-assembly it is a fixed compenent of. They may have to special order it.
 
Sounds like a bunch of Yamaha service BS to me. Go to simyamaha.com and check out their parts diagrams on your engine - check out the Power Trim/Tilt Assembly 1 diagram (I just did). Seems to me there's no need to replace the entire trim assy is broken down into 78 parts. If you can't identify the specific gasket call Sim and they'll tell you which one it is or which sub-assembly it is a fixed compenent of. They may have to special order it.


I looked at your website and it doesnot show the dust seal at the top of the tilt rod as a separate part. I have called the parts houses and they say I have to buy theassembly. What I am looking for is someone who has figured out aworkaround for this $5 part rather than the $525 assembly. A secondquestion might be that if I remove the screw in the bottom of thepiston can the piston assembly be removed from the rod so the cap canslide off?
 
I looked at your website and it doesnot show the dust seal at the top of the tilt rod as a separate part. I have called the parts houses and they say I have to buy theassembly. What I am looking for is someone who has figured out aworkaround for this $5 part rather than the $525 assembly. A secondquestion might be that if I remove the screw in the bottom of thepiston can the piston assembly be removed from the rod so the cap canslide off?

Pretty sure I bought one for my '98 C60 last year. I don't see yours being any different. Do you have a link to the diagram you are looking at? I can try to confirm which one I bought.
 
Pretty sure I bought one for my '98 C60 last year. I don't see yours being any different. Do you have a link to the diagram you are looking at? I can try to confirm which one I bought.

Here is a link to a parts site.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1996/C75TLRU/POWER TRIM TILT ASSEMBLY 1/parts.html

I don't know if it is direct to specific engine. If not 1996/C75TRLU/trim tilt. I am looking for a dust seal at the top of the tilt rod. I took the screw out of the piston and as far as I can tell it does not separate there which means it has to come apart at the socket on top. Can't see how that is done (easily). Thanks for looking into this problem for me.
 
Here is a link to a parts site.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1996/C75TLRU/POWER TRIM TILT ASSEMBLY 1/parts.html

I don't know if it is direct to specific engine. If not 1996/C75TRLU/trim tilt. I am looking for a dust seal at the top of the tilt rod. I took the screw out of the piston and as far as I can tell it does not separate there which means it has to come apart at the socket on top. Can't see how that is done (easily). Thanks for looking into this problem for me.

IN that diagram are you talking about part/assembly #20? This is just a guess and I'll have to look at mine as the design can't have changed that much - I'm wondering (if it is part #20) I see 4 indents on the top of the piston housing. I'm wondering if when the motor is fully tilted up those 4 indents aren't there to serve as some type of anchor points that allow one to unscrew the top of the cylinder and pull that piston assembly out. Once out I'd bet the bottom of the piston assembly can be taken off allowing the piston to be fully pulled out the top. If that's the case, seems like it should be possible to then pry out whatever little rubber dust gasket is in there and find another gasket that may fit in its place. If it does come out that way you'd probably have to drain all fluid and leave the system open to pull that piston assembly out of the cylinder. At this point - what do you have to lose except $525 on a replacement
 
IN that diagram are you talking about part/assembly #20? This is just a guess and I'll have to look at mine as the design can't have changed that much - I'm wondering (if it is part #20) I see 4 indents on the top of the piston housing. I'm wondering if when the motor is fully tilted up those 4 indents aren't there to serve as some type of anchor points that allow one to unscrew the top of the cylinder and pull that piston assembly out. Once out I'd bet the bottom of the piston assembly can be taken off allowing the piston to be fully pulled out the top. If that's the case, seems like it should be possible to then pry out whatever little rubber dust gasket is in there and find another gasket that may fit in its place. If it does come out that way you'd probably have to drain all fluid and leave the system open to pull that piston assembly out of the cylinder. At this point - what do you have to lose except $525 on a replacement

I have removed the whole trim/tilt system from the engine and removed both the trim and tilt piston/rod assemblies. Yes those 4 indents allow you to unscrew the cap (where the dust seal is located) and remove the rod and piston. As far as I can tell the yoke at the top that attaches to the engine does not unscrew nor do I see how the piston comes off. This arrangement does not let you slide the cap off the rod. If you remove the screw in the bottom of the piston you see 5 springs that load some kind of mushroom shaped stops. I guess that they have somehow pressure related.
 
OK... so you've tried that... That's what I was wondering.. If somehow the bottom plate on that piston could be removed and the top plate slid down the piston and off the bottom.

Wish I knew what else to say but I'm out of ideas. After breaking the whole thing down I'm pretty sure you don't want to hear one of those 1/2-assed fixes like smearing the entire piston with synthetic waterproof grease then lowering it to drag that grease down into that gasket and opening each time. That would help keeping water splashing on it from getting down in there but that's bubble gum and bandaids. Sounds like this may be one of those great examples of yamaha engineering that makes you want to find the engineer who designed this part and ram that assembly up his tail.
 
Back
Top