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Aq125a rear crank seal replacement

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V-P MARC

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I am thinking of tackling engine removal for the purpose of changing out the rear crank seal in my '83 Bayliner 1950 Capri. I have a Clymer shop manual that covers Volvo-Penta stern drives from 1968 to 1993. What I was wondering, can the engine be separated at the bellhousing/engine block connection or do I have to pretty much do it as described in the Clymer manual. Which is removing the upper gear housing to get at the thru bolts that connect the engine to the outdrive unit through the transom? Also, is the rear seal changeout fairly easy? Thanks for all help. Marc.
 
Once you pull the flywheel then you can pull the rear seal housing and change the seal. You need the gasket and the seal. I would want to remove the exhaust manifold to make putting the motor back in easier. It would be a good idea to replace the PDS bearing and seals while the motor is out but not absolutely necessary. That would be the only reason to pull the upper gearbox.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Victor-...ash=item1c693e02c2:g:vy8AAOSwc1FXbEa7&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Penta...ash=item33b89952f4:g:-kMAAOSw9eVXUcs~&vxp=mtr
For sure use the oem seal
 
No to pull the motor you need to remove the starter and everything connected wires, cables and hoses and just unbolt the bell housing just like a car. Everything can stay on the engine if you have room there are two lift brackets on the motor to lift it with. Like I said putting it back in with the exhaust manifold on would be a challenge for sure.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
No to pull the motor you need to remove the starter and everything connected wires, cables and hoses and just unbolt the bell housing just like a car. Everything can stay on the engine if you have room there are two lift brackets on the motor to lift it with. Like I said putting it back in with the exhaust manifold on would be a challenge for sure.
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You cannot do it like a car unless you can fit under the engine inside your boat.
You have to remove the transmission from the outdrive.
This will be the first hurdle in this task.
Sometimes you have trouble getting them out.
 
There is a dust shield I forgot to mention will keep the damper plate from sliding off the PDS bearing yea that can be a bitch getting to behind the oil pan but that is the only hurdle if you can get the four bolts holding the engine on the bellhousing. If you pull the flywheel housing be sure and replace the two large rubber gaskets. I just rebuilt a AQ131 the same animal and did not need to pull the flywheel housing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Volvo-P...ash=item419ab7fa2b:g:wV0AAOSw-jhUDyyc&vxp=mtr
 
Okay. I just went out and looked at my motor again and to me it looks like you could remove the bolts connecting the flywheel cover (bell housing) to the engine block and just pull the engine away from the flywheel cover and off the PDS. That way you don't have to remove the upper gear housing to remove the six bolts with the clamping ring that secures the outdrive to the flywheel housing. No messing with the two big o-rings. Is it possible to do it that way?
 
Thats what I did there is a plate on the bottom of the flywheel housing that needs to come off so the flywheel/damper clears the primary drive shaft and lift it straight up if you can. I believe there are three 12mm or 13mm bolts holding the plate on? All it takes is a little tension on the lifting chain while you remove the last two upper bolts holding the engine on. I also went out and looked at mine I believe there are 5 17mm bolts holding the engine to the housing?
 
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