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Is the starter directly connected to this fuse? I thought the fuse goes to the solenoid, power trim and gauges. I can't tell if it blows when trying to start since I don't know if it has already blown before I turn the key.
Do you have accessories connected to the ignition circuit? Intermittent faults are normally wiring related it could be a bare wire in the engine rubbing at a certain throttle position? If accessories are connected to the ignition switch you need to add a fuse block and pull two wires from the battery for the house wiring. Keep ignition separate from the house wiring! Be sure and fuse any wires you add to battery positive at the battery.
Erratic...... needle jumping back and forth to different readings, falling to zero, NOT functioning properly. It wouldn't actually cause the engine to change rpms.
What actually happens is electrical components are designed to pull a certain current when there is resistance in the circuit that component is still trying to draw the same power so it increases the amps through the fuse.
The 20 ampere power fuse leads FROM the battery cable that is connected to the starter solenoid, picking up the voltage FROM that battery positive cable... NOT... applying power to the solenoid!
The voltage/power/12v carries the battery voltage through that 20 ampere fuse to the "B" (battery) terminal of the ignition switch which supplies voltage/power to the "S" (starter) terminal of the ignition switch to power and engage the starter solenoid.
And yes, a faulty water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier can also cause the fuse to blow... BUT... normally if this component is acting up, the tachometer will also be acting erratic and you've said nothing about that as of yet.
Waiting to hear your detailed exact explanation as to when and how that fuse blows to pin it down. Just exactly what is taking place when that fuse blo