Just had my 20' CC repowered with a Suzuki 200 HP inline 4 2016. Nice quiet engine.
Had all new gauges put in since OEM from original Evinrude were all corroded and weathered.
My repower mechanic I presume followed Suzuki instructions and tied in the ECU/EMM to my deep cycle aux battery. I have a 3-way battery switch that gives me selections for #1 Battery (Cranking battery) #2 All/both batteries (2), and #3 Auxiliary battery (deep cycle).
My old Evinrude 225 HP had a double alternator output to charge both batteries in parallel independent of each's load. My Suzuki does not have the kit option to split the alternator's single output into two different charging circuits. What I am seeing at the console is what I believe is the ECU/EMM sensed voltage right off the Aux Battery (that bypasses the battery switch I am told). So the ECU/EMM I presume gets power all the time it needs it (e.g. when key is on) independent of battery three-way switch. My console voltage meter only reads 14.1 volts or so when I have the 3-way in the #3 position (aux battery). When I have it in the #1 position (Cranking battery) I get a voltage just slightly higher than 12 volts (12.1-12.2?). I think I get the 14V charging voltage sensed at the console meter when I am also in #2 position (combined battery). I confirmed with a DVM that I AM getting +14V at battery #1 when underway and in switch position #1 even with the console showing only 12.1V.
Does the normal Suzuki wire harness hook up sense voltage only from the ECU power line? Shouldn't it be measuring it right off the alternator output under the presumption that its' driving whatever batteries are switched in?
Right now the only way to get "warm and fuzzy" feelings that my DF200 alternator is working and charging while underway on main battery (#1) position is to momentarily switch the 3-way battery switch to #3 position to see it jump up to 14.2V then switch back. But its unnerving to have to constantly worry that it could be draining that cranking battery without seeing a strong charging voltage at the console when on #1.
Is there a practical way to switch the console Volt Meter so that it sees the proper charging voltage for whatever battery I have switched in currently or must I always run in switch position #2 to combine both batteries to be confident each is cross strapped to each other under way for charging?
Had all new gauges put in since OEM from original Evinrude were all corroded and weathered.
My repower mechanic I presume followed Suzuki instructions and tied in the ECU/EMM to my deep cycle aux battery. I have a 3-way battery switch that gives me selections for #1 Battery (Cranking battery) #2 All/both batteries (2), and #3 Auxiliary battery (deep cycle).
My old Evinrude 225 HP had a double alternator output to charge both batteries in parallel independent of each's load. My Suzuki does not have the kit option to split the alternator's single output into two different charging circuits. What I am seeing at the console is what I believe is the ECU/EMM sensed voltage right off the Aux Battery (that bypasses the battery switch I am told). So the ECU/EMM I presume gets power all the time it needs it (e.g. when key is on) independent of battery three-way switch. My console voltage meter only reads 14.1 volts or so when I have the 3-way in the #3 position (aux battery). When I have it in the #1 position (Cranking battery) I get a voltage just slightly higher than 12 volts (12.1-12.2?). I think I get the 14V charging voltage sensed at the console meter when I am also in #2 position (combined battery). I confirmed with a DVM that I AM getting +14V at battery #1 when underway and in switch position #1 even with the console showing only 12.1V.
Does the normal Suzuki wire harness hook up sense voltage only from the ECU power line? Shouldn't it be measuring it right off the alternator output under the presumption that its' driving whatever batteries are switched in?
Right now the only way to get "warm and fuzzy" feelings that my DF200 alternator is working and charging while underway on main battery (#1) position is to momentarily switch the 3-way battery switch to #3 position to see it jump up to 14.2V then switch back. But its unnerving to have to constantly worry that it could be draining that cranking battery without seeing a strong charging voltage at the console when on #1.
Is there a practical way to switch the console Volt Meter so that it sees the proper charging voltage for whatever battery I have switched in currently or must I always run in switch position #2 to combine both batteries to be confident each is cross strapped to each other under way for charging?
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