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Wiring Depth Finder

Christ

New member
Not sure if I have properly connected my newly installed depth finder.

It is a Hawkeye and has an inline fuse but no switch for on/off.
Not being experienced I wiring I took the approach of attaching to the ignition switch positive/negative so it would come on when I start the boat.
Turned the ignition and seems to be operating.

Have read it would be better to wire to the fuse box if there is a spare.

To do that would I only need to move my positive wire as it seems I have a good ground at the ignition switch?

Also if I wire to the fuse box will it be on/off with the ignition or needing a switch?

Hope I have made some sense and can get some guidance.

Thanks
 
Hi Chris, It is not a good idea to wire anything to your ignition switch as when you start your engine the demand on the battery increases to what is called the 'cold crank amperage' which is far greater than the stated amps on your battery. This produced a surge into the system to start your engine, this surge can destroy delicate parts of electrical equipment if not unchecked.
What I suggest is fitting a separate switch and an in line fuse on the positive line from your battery to not only your depth finder but all equipment, including lights and bilge pumps. Your negative side of the battery can be common to everything, including your starter switch.
The old story that water and electricity don't mix is correct, so if water got into any of your contacts and caused a short circuit only a fuse would blow. With no fuse in line the wire would start to overheat and behave like an electric fire, glowing red and setting fire to the insulation surrounding the wire core.
Nearly all boat switch panels include removable fuses and that is the reason why.
Just remember, you would never wire up your house unless all the wires went through a fuse box. The same with a boat, in fact more so.
regards,
Eric
PS. Start your engine first, then turn on your equipment to be safe. You can start a car with all the lights on and the radio but they are all protected by relays, this is not the case in boats unless they are very expensive ones..
 
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This written in simple language by a someone attempting to learn basic wiring.

That being the case can I take the two wires from the depth finder to a spare on the fuse bock and attach it there to power the finder placing a switch in the line for the on/off?

I assume power from the battery runs to the fuse panel and from the fuse panel power runs to each switch on the dash to power each gauge on the boat.

I see reference to a bus bar which is wire to the fuse block and appears to have purpose of making attachment of power to each gauge easier
 
Chris, the only thing that should be connected to the ignition switch is the engine harness and your gauges, fuel, volts, temp, tac, oil pressure (if you have it), your gauges lights should run from your navigation lights, anything else should have separated switches power from a B+ buss behind the dash, that way you don't have to have your ignition on to have your electronics on, you should have two main wire gage # 8 running from your B+ and B- to your console, and from there get your power and ground.
 
Chris, the only thing that should be connected to the ignition switch is the engine harness and your gauges, fuel, volts, temp, tac, oil pressure (if you have it), your gauges lights should run from your navigation lights, anything else should have separated switches power from a B+ buss behind the dash, that way you don't have to have your ignition on to have your electronics on, you should have two main wire gage # 8 running from your B+ and B- to your console, and from there get your power and ground.


Thank you for the assist.
Chris
 
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