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Modifying electric system on chrysler with point system

J

JSC14JEAN

Member
How many folk do not have to pay exorbitant prices for replacement of blown CDI units of their 75 / 76 or earlier Chrysler outboards fitted with points in the distributor. There is such a cheap and easy way of converting this CDI system to a normal COIL system ( as used on the older cars ). cost? 1 x 12 volt coil: 1 x 1/2 mfd cap ( old condenser ) some wiring, and spark to all plugs. If interested I will explain.
 
Jerryjerry05 said:
Yea put up some pics and a diagram.
Thanks
Click to expand...

So sorry but I do not know know to upload pics or a diagram. However, will give a clear explanation.

Parts required: 1 x 12 volt coil (preferably new: I use oil filled): 1 x 2 -3 mfd condenser (old fashioned metal cap): some wiring and short piece plug wire: STANDARD PLUGS (0.30" GAP) (NOT THE PLUGS WITHOUT GROUND ELECTRODE)

1. Remove RED, BLUE, WHITE wires from CDI unit to wiring block.
2. Remove wire from CDI unit to threaded screw on distributor ( this screw is connected to the NON-EARTHED points inside distributor )
3. Remove bolts from CDI unit to motor; remove CDI unit.
4. Fit new coil against motor (use one of the open bolt-holes)
5. From + (PLUS) side of coil, run a wire to the wiring block where BLUE CDI wire used to be ( starting wire)
6. From - (MINUS) side of coil run a wire to the threaded screw on distributor (where CDI to Distr. wire used to be)
7. Connect 2 - 3 MFD condenser casing to ground; its wire to threaded screw on distributor (which goes to points)
8. Replace HT centre wire from distributor with thicker wire. (distributor centre to coil centre.)
9.DO NOT USE PLUGS WITHOUT GROUND ELECTRODE. USE STANDARD PLUGS WITH .030" GAP.
10. If points gap is set up properly, there must be spark on points when open/closing points with screw driver. You will now have spark on spark plugs as well. NO MORE CDI PROBLEMS!

And you'll be safer than I was with ONE motor out, due to faulty CDI unit ( 4 miles out from shore!!)
 
I think it would be a good idea to put a ballast resistor in series with the + terminal of the coil. Most automotive coils are really 6 Volt coils and will draw too much current if connected directly to 12Volts.
 
I've heard of these conversions before and was just wondering how they work out. I've heard pros and cons. Thanks.
 
Hi Boobie. This conversion is almost fool-proof. I am still running my 2 75's like this after 3 years. Just follow my explanation. Use proper wire size. Preferably use a 12v coil from an older type vehicle. Make sure to also fit the resistor if fitted. I bought 2 new oil-filled coils. Those coils ( new ) do not need a resistor.
I still have the CDI units taken off my 75's. If some-one wants them, send postage money to me and I will send them to you. (unfortunately I live in South Africa) Good luck with the conversion.
 
I also post over on I-boats forums.
The Force/Chrysler forum has guys doing the same thing.
They seem to have no problems with the setup.
 
You need the ballast resistor to keep from cooking the points I highly recommend installing a ballast to coil pos or make sure you keep spare points and condensers on board.
 
Boy those spare points, condenser and a coil are a hell of a lot more simple than an EMM, lap top computer and ect. if you get stranded. JMHO. Ah, for the good old days.
 
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