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70hp Johnson won't start now.

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Surfj9009

New member
Hey guys, so I got a new boat. Has a 1992 70HP Johnson.
Started cold ok, took a lot of pushing in the key and restarting to get it to idle. When it did finally idle it was idling around 1600 RPM. Is this normal RPM at idle in the driveway?
Second, my brother flipped the red lever down on the fuel priming solenoid when it was running and it died, and now I can't get it to restart. I pulled the plugs, cranked it a few times, and by then my battery was dead. It's on the charger tonight. I've got new plugs to put in tomorrow and I'm hopeful it was just flooded.
Any thought? Seemed to idle well once it ran, but now I can't get it to start since the red lever was flipped.
 
Turning the red lever dumps fuel into the engine.----This fuel bypasses the carburetors.---------------Have the battery load tested.--------A weak battery / bad starter means slow cranking and there will be no spark to start it.
 
Give us your cold start procedure because when it floods you should be able to push the small lever all the way forward and start it.

The primer operates like this with the red lever horizontal, it works off of the key like a choke would.

When the primer lever is vertical it has to be used manually this is how you do that.

#1 pump the primer ball till hard.
#2 turn the red lever vertical and pump the primer ball twice more and turn the lever back to horizontal.
#3 Push the cold start lever forward and start the motor.


That's how it works for mine when I have needed to start it so it's just a ballpark your motor may need a slightly different procedure. But this should get you started. You will have to figure it out as they are all different.
 
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(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)

The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.

Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.

The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.

Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.


The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.


Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.


Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.


Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.


Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
flyingscott said:
Give us your cold start procedure because when it floods you should be able to push the small lever all the way forward and start it.

The primer operates like this with the red lever horizontal, it works off of the key like a choke would.

When the primer lever is vertical it has to be used manually this is how you do that.

#1 pump the primer ball till hard.
#2 turn the red lever vertical and pump the primer ball twice more and turn the lever back to horizontal.
#3 Push the cold start lever forward and start the motor.


That's how it works for mine when I have needed to start it so it's just a ballpark your motor may need a slightly different procedure. But this should get you started. You will have to figure it out as they are all different.
Click to expand...

On step three, do you mean the throttle lever?

Here is what I did:
first time running the motor, so I have no problems changing this procedure.
1) pump primer bulb until hard
2) advance throttle a little bit
3) start engine with key pressed in
4) when engine is running, stop pressing key in
5) when engine appears to want to die, press key in momentarily to apply more fuel


i was able to get it running by doing this but had to restart it several times. By the time I got it warmed up and running I think the battery was low. And so when the priming solenoid lever was flipped, she flooded and I didn't have power to start it back up. Gonna go try it here soon. I'll get my battery tested first since its been on a charger all night.
I also got new plugs for it (champion QL77JC4, old ones weren't that bad but they are cheap. I thought it was odd that my old plugs were gapped at .042. I thought they should be at .030?
This engine already has the VRO deletion, if that matters. Gonna pull the tank today. I can see that the sending unit is disconnected, but the hose is still connected. Everythng I have read says this hose should be plugged.
 
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Hah. Pulled VRO hose and plugged it. New plugs gapped at .032. New battery.
Fires right up. Still idling at 1600 in the driveway.
Time to wire in my fish finder and downriggers and I'm on the water!
 
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Surfj9009 said:
Hah. Pulled VRO hose and plugged it.
Click to expand...

Is the RED lever pointed in the proper direction?
Is there a short and voltage being applied constantly to the primer solenoid?
Is the primer solenoid having fuel flow through it even with no voltage applied?

With the primer solenoid's feed line plugged, there is no way to prime/choke the engine.
 
joereeves said:
Is the RED lever pointed in the proper direction?
Is there a short and voltage being applied constantly to the primer solenoid?
Is the primer solenoid having fuel flow through it even with no voltage applied?

With the primer solenoid's feed line plugged, there is no way to prime/choke the engine.
Click to expand...

The red lever is pointing aft, parallel to the ground.
I doubt it is shorted, when running, when I push the key in, the engine drops in to then returns to a 1600 rpm idle. I do not know for certain if it is dumping fuel without engaging the switch, but I do not suspect that it is because it seems to run well until I push the switch in.
I did not plug the primer feed line. I plugged the feed hose from the oil tank. It was already disconnected electrically (sending unit); so I just plugged the hose. Previous owner said oil must be mixed at fill-up, and the mixing tank was bypassed. But the hose was still hooked up. I can't see if it's still connected to the engine, or if the previous owner changed it over to a non-VRO fuel pump. Not really sure what I'm looking at and can't see the where the oil hose goes inside the housing. Too much in the way.
 
That oil line not being plugged previously would allow the VRO to draw air.

The RED lever of the primer solenoid should be pointed directly at the other end of the solenoid in order for it to be a working unit (automatic). I assume that's where it's pointed.

The following may be of some use to you in determining if the engine has been converted properly back to premix.

(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
********************
 
joereeves said:
That oil line not being plugged previously would allow the VRO to draw air.

The RED lever of the primer solenoid should be pointed directly at the other end of the solenoid in order for it to be a working unit (automatic). I assume that's where it's pointed.

The following may be of some use to you in determining if the engine has been converted properly back to premix.

(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
********************
Click to expand...
Thanks Joe. I got 1-3 done yesterday. When I get home from classes today I'll check the heat alarm. Should I consider changing the fuel pump to a non-VRO pump? Will it make much of a difference now that the VRO is fully isolated?
My other question would regarding the idle. My SELOC manual says it should idle at 600-700 rpm. Would this be in gear RPM or not? Would it be reasonable to assume the RPM will drop when the engine is fully warmed up?
I haven't run the engine more than a few minutes in the driveway. Hoping to have time to get it on the water today, but I don't want to damage anything by shifting into gear at too high of an RPM.
edited to add: I just found this thread, so maybe that's what I'm looking at regarding the idle.
I guess I'll float her today and see what happens. I've been hesitant to run it too long on the trailer for fear of the runaway engine I read about somewhere.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...e-outboards/458939-91-70-hp-johnson-high-idle
 
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I'm not sure about the idle rpm when the rig's in the water.

However, on a flushette the idle in neutral should be 1000 rpm on a 20"shaft engine..... 1200 rpm on a 25" shaft engine.
 
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