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1986 Force 50 cooling flow

Dons86F50

New member
I'm looking for help with an 86 Force 50 regarding cooling flow. It has been run mostly in salt water but always flushed with fresh when arriving home (always back on trailer at end of day). I pulled the thermostat out and it was full of crud and well worn so I got a new one. The passages into the heads look clear as far as I can see, but when I pump water up from the bottom there is barely any flow. The passage that comes off the thermostat housing and attaches to the exhaust port cover via hose was completely blocked with salt/crud. I cleaned the thermostat housing and the passage into the exhaust port cover (several inches deep), but I can't seem to get past that point with flow. Where should that flow go? Is there a way to clean the crud out of both the engine and exhaust port cover without taking the heads off and/or removing the exhaust port cover? I'm looking for recommendations on what to flush with or the best way to clean both items. I've read that vinegar cleans salt deposits but I'm not sure if I should use it, at what strength, and is it ok to put it in and leave it for a period of time. Would one of the commercial products be more effective? I'm retired and on a thin budget so any economical solutions will be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Try West Marine and see if they have a motor flush.
The best way is to remove the head and exhaust cover and clean that way.
Flushing is good but the motor must be brought up to operating temp.
As long as 15 min or more running and it still doesn't flush it all out.

The screws are cheap 1/4-20 and can twist off very easy so be careful if that's the route you take.
It took almost 3hrs to remove the bottom screws from a motor I worked on.
If you do ask and I'll post instructions on how I did it.
 
Thanks Jerry, I'd appreciate any insight so if you can post that it would be great. I do have the Seloc manual for the motor but it covers several versions of Force motors so some specific info would be an improvement. I'm not sure how well it will go removing the heads some of the bolt heads are rusted. I'll try to stop by West Marine soon to see what they have in the way of motor flush.
 
I try to remove the bolts using a small propane torch, a small hammer and PB Blaster.

I start spraying with PB and heating the bolts and tapping with the hammer.
Repeat, and slowly try to turn the screw.
It might come right out and might take hours???

Don't be afraid to heat the area around the screw.

They stick because of "galvanic corrosion" dissimilar metals working against each other.
Then water intrusion and they don't want to turn out.

Seloc is a good manual for "general" repairs.
They lack the details a factory manual has.
But a factory manual won't tell you how to remove a seized bolt.
It's for "new service" and specifications.

The salt will affect the bolts and you might get lucky removing them.
Just take your time and don't get upset if you twist off the lower ones.

Start spraying NOW!!!
 
As a last resort an impact driver and dead blow hammer could help or hurt you. Used these on cycle case cover screws quite a bit......
 

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Daves69 That's a great tool but on an outboard that's been in salt water, NOOOO
That tool has so much torque that it would twist off every screw or bolt.
 
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