Nissan 3.5a2 carb problems

I've had this motor sitting about 5 years and am trying to bring it back to life. I replaced the spark plug and cleaned out the fuel bowl and was able to start it. The bowl was seriously caked up in white crap (im guessing that is ethanol residue) but it did start and would idle with the choke open after a while. I did not drain it before last use so I realize Im paying for that now.

I have removed the water pump and am waiting on replacement. It was pumping ok but 6 years is a long time.

The motor seemed unresposive to throttle increase with a prounouned delayed response. I have the carb apart and cleaned it up.I also have a rebuild kit on the way.

How important is it to remove the needle jet from the carb? It seems like its pressed in there and the rebuild kit doesnt have any replacement for it.

Also on the front of the carb near the choke there are two holes... one is open and the other seems to have a metal filling almost like there is a plug in there. Is that normal or do i have a major blockage?

Also, can I test run the motor without the prop on?

Thanks in advance

You probably need to do a better job cleaning the carb. Yes, the main jet is removable. Yes, you should install a new wp kit. Yes, you can run with the prop off, but of course you do need cooling water. See the carb diagram:

Thanks for the info. I have the main jet off (1-16 on my diagram) but am struggling with 1-10. I'm guessing I can tap it out with a dowel or something?

Yep. The emulsion tube nozzle. I usually push it down with a dowel or similar. Then dunk everything that is not rubber in real carb dip for 4 hours at room temp. Then blow everything out with generic carb spray. Use the whole can. Odds are you will be OK after that.

Thanks again Paul..got it out with an old plastic stylus. I soaked it a bit in seafoam as that's all I have at the moment. It is looking a lot better. Any advice on how to remove that hinge pin (1-17 in diagram)? Im thinking pliers but I really dont want to destroy anything so thought I'd ask an expert. Thanks again.

Seafoam is not aggressive enough. You need a gallon can of real carb dip from the auto parts store. The hinge pin slides out. That will then let you see the needle, and inspect it. A carb kit is available from Tohatsu for that carb.

Thanks..got the pin out using a tiny Allen wrench as a punch. I see what you mean about the sea foam as there is still a lot of white crud after soaking overnight. A definite improvement, but not a total success. I have a carb kit on the way which I believe replaces every part between the fuel line and the main jet except the bowl itself. I did get the gear oil changed today and was able to free the thrust rod. Will look for carb dip tomorrow. Thanks again Paul.

What would be a good grease to use on moving parts? Looking for something I can get locally if possible. I got the thrust rod moving pretty good with left over gear oil bit obviously that's not a long term solution. Motor need s a good greasing overall. Thanks

Any decent #2 waterproof grease will work fine. Most outboard shops will have some.